3D Printing 101: Troubleshooting a Bad Print / Installing a New Nozzle

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Sean had some issues with his Prusa i3 mk3 3d printer. We texted back and forth, but it was best for me to visit. 5 hours in a plane later, and we made it happen! The Bob-Omb model had extrusion inconsistences on one side. We tried a few troubleshooting techniques until we found the cause, and fixed it!

#3dprinter #troubleshooting #seanisawesome

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Well, poo. The audio is out of sync for a moment and I ACCIDENTALLY cut off Sean at the end. I did some edits late at night while he was playing the new Kingdom Hearts 3. Fully my fault, my mistake. Sean, I'm sorry. When you're in Seattle next, the first round is on me. Also, it's really cold in Michigan right now, don't die.

DPrintingNerd
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Sean gets his solo moment and YouTube cuts him off! ...Thanks for mentioning the Tool Kit and my brief cameo at 10:40.

FilamentFriday
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I’ve had these problems before, they are rare but hard to diagnose if you’re not familiar with 3D printing so I’m really glad this video helps teach viewers about them

Bajicoy
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Doesn't matter how expensive your 3d printer is. Sometimes the hardware just wears out or gets loose. Great vid.

rodryk
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I was surprised at such a smooth finish on the final print. It has a spun fiber look instead of the stepped layered look I see on so many 3d prints.

stylinstu
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I'm really glad this video was made I had these problems with my tronxy x5s and now with some tweaking and replacement nozzel it prints great, thanks 3DPN and Sean!!!

josetenorio
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Troubleshooting is always a struggle but so satisfying when it's done! I recently replaced all the belts and pulleys on my printer and it's printing better than ever. So worthwhile.

LoveMakeShareTV
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Anytime you post a troubleshooting video, you can always count on a Like from me. The more knowledge people know the better their prints will be. Pass the knowledge on people!

spunkmire
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An e3d silicone sock works great for keeping filiment off of your nozzle and block.

Chris_Cable
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@12:50, if you have brass nozzles, use the brass bristled brush. The steel will dig into the brass.

elfpimp
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Excellent timing!! I've been having the same problems, and using my flush cutters the same way... THANKS GUYS. I look forward to getting home today to troubleshoot.

Davedwin
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I've just started having these issues show up on my Prusa clone, and was getting nowhere with online help. Thank goodness you posted this video at just the right time!

DanielEleveld
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I'm brand new to the medium and so so so thankful for the work the community has put in. Thanks guys!

isvvc_
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Thank you! I've been troubeshooting a strange issue on my MK3 where one corner was all rough. Changed the nozzle and all back to normal! Sometimes we forget the most basic things to check! I had been playing with slicer settings, dehydrating filament and other issues.

michaelyoung
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Thank you so much for making this video. I was having this very issue and I couldn't find a good solution anywhere else. These troubleshooting steps helped me go from printing awful messes to printing very nice models! Cheers!

bigtimecool
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Was going to suggest the wire brush, but looks like you got into that. I picked up a small brass brush at Lowe’s for a few $. I like using it to wipe the “bleeding” filament off the nozzle that comes out just before you print while the printer is heating.

ericzwirnmann
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Great video Joel and Sean! Thank you so much for putting out troubleshooting videos. They are a great service to the 3d printing community, and newbies like myself. I have a new Prusa MK3 that I received in early January, and had the same layer shift issue on the y axis after I assembled my kit. As it turns out, this is a very common issue for those that buy the kit. Prusa has a video on their site that helps to troubleshoot common issue and this is one of those featured in the video. Once I identified the axis having the issue, I quickly found that I hadn't tightened the set screws on the Y motor pulley. As it turns out it is a final step that was left out of the printed manual (at least I couldn't find it anyway). My Benchies are now beautiful! Again, great video!

tonyh.
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Snap! Had the same problem with my Anycubic Chiron . 4 days into a 6 day print, frustrating to say the least. Turned out to be the PTF tube had distorted where it touched the back of the nozzle and effectively reduced the internal size of the tube to about 50% reducing the flow of PLA. Ended up switching out both the tube and nozzle and now its back to printing amazingly well. Thanks for another great video..

fantasyforge
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At 4:20, I can clearly see how using the flush cutters like that could lead to that problem. Instead of cutting the filament cold, on my printer, I heat up the filament to print temp, then I can retract the filament back one step with the move menu. Then I use a large set of tweezers to run just along the sides of the nozzle down to the tip to grab the molten plastic from the tip. If I need to I repeat again a couple more times if I continue to get some more oozing but it should stop soon since you previously retracted the filament. Then as soon as possible lower the nozzle heat back down below print temp to allow the filament to set back up inside the nozzle clean and flush. No risk of cutting any metal pieces nor getting your fingers burned either. I am uncertain as whether a Prusa can retract filament since I haven't played with one but this works well with my little Monoprice Mini Select. Great advice shared Joel!

jayclyde
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Best video ever, straight down to issues that no one ever talks about. Thank

michaelknott