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Why is Electric Fuel Pump Replacement Cost so High? We Dig into the Guts and Explain. Save Money $$
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In this episode we explain the high cost of fuel pump replacement. Chances are your daily driver isn't a 79 Plymouth Volare. Most of our regular daily drivers are fuel injected, if that's the case you can Say goodbye to your 35-dollar mechanical fuel pump.
Our victim is a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.9 R/T with about 85K miles on the clock, we've owned it since 2000, during this time we've replaced normal maintenance items, such as brakes, tires and shocks. It's time to get to the bottom of the long crank time we've experienced for the last 6 months. To mitigate this issue I'd rotate the key to the run position 3 times, this would pressurize the fuel system and then start instantly. Getting your wife onboard with this system is another story.
Most Chrysler fuel systems from this time period are similar, consisting of a plastic canister, an electric fuel pump and the filter/regulator. The canister itself will not wear out and can be dissembled. Excessive crank times will point to the filter/regulator. Not hearing the familiar buzz of the fuel pump points toward the pump or wiring or relay.
Sometimes a wack with a hammer near the location of the pump can get you home, if you're by yourself, turn the key to the "run" position, punch the tank till you hear the buzz, then get in and start it. Avoid being a moron, don't hit fuel lines and if this works, keep in mind you're on borrowed time, it needs to get fixed.
We discussed typical replacement costs of around $600, in our case, but can be as high as $900 to $1,100, depending on the vehicle, its age, and your region, if you live in the rust belt, expect to pay extra for items that turn to crust as the tank is removed. Labor costs range from about $300 to $600, and parts for fuel pump replacement are about $300 to $500. We could have fixed our issue ourselves for the cost of a cheap $14 filter, but you get what you pay for, I picked up a Mopar brand Filter/Regulator, on ebay for around $45.
Notice how I constantly call the Filter the Filter/Regulator? That's because it preforms both functions (duh), but also some of the factory documents, FSMs, and parts books only referred to the filter/regulator as just the REGULATOR, this led to some confusion for years.
Replacing the fuel pump, filter/regulator, or the whole assembly isn't hard, per say. If you can get your hands on a factory service manual, or a Chiltons manual, and follow the directions step by step, you'll be able to do the repair. It's completely possible to do with hand tools.
Always Put Safety First Whenever you’re dealing with flammable liquids like gasoline, there are certain precautions needed to minimize risk. If you’ve decided to take on the task of replacing a fuel pump yourself, avoid anything that could spark fumes, which can happen even with an empty gas tank.
We'll feature typical, at your own risk, repairs and upgrades for most Dodge, Plymouth, Duster, Dart, Barracuda, Cuda, fastback, notchback, convertible, Demon, Valiant, Signet, Dart Sport, a-body Mopar and the occasional 1998 Dodge Dakota R/T 5.9 Magnum, or maybe not. We focus on the years 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 and 1976. Special guest/camera girl Aaliya. Questions? Leave us a comment below. We're here to help. Thanks for Watching.
TO SHOW YOUR SUPPORT: Consider a membership.
SEND US STUFF:
910 Walton Street
McGregor, IA 52157
1500 52623
Our victim is a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.9 R/T with about 85K miles on the clock, we've owned it since 2000, during this time we've replaced normal maintenance items, such as brakes, tires and shocks. It's time to get to the bottom of the long crank time we've experienced for the last 6 months. To mitigate this issue I'd rotate the key to the run position 3 times, this would pressurize the fuel system and then start instantly. Getting your wife onboard with this system is another story.
Most Chrysler fuel systems from this time period are similar, consisting of a plastic canister, an electric fuel pump and the filter/regulator. The canister itself will not wear out and can be dissembled. Excessive crank times will point to the filter/regulator. Not hearing the familiar buzz of the fuel pump points toward the pump or wiring or relay.
Sometimes a wack with a hammer near the location of the pump can get you home, if you're by yourself, turn the key to the "run" position, punch the tank till you hear the buzz, then get in and start it. Avoid being a moron, don't hit fuel lines and if this works, keep in mind you're on borrowed time, it needs to get fixed.
We discussed typical replacement costs of around $600, in our case, but can be as high as $900 to $1,100, depending on the vehicle, its age, and your region, if you live in the rust belt, expect to pay extra for items that turn to crust as the tank is removed. Labor costs range from about $300 to $600, and parts for fuel pump replacement are about $300 to $500. We could have fixed our issue ourselves for the cost of a cheap $14 filter, but you get what you pay for, I picked up a Mopar brand Filter/Regulator, on ebay for around $45.
Notice how I constantly call the Filter the Filter/Regulator? That's because it preforms both functions (duh), but also some of the factory documents, FSMs, and parts books only referred to the filter/regulator as just the REGULATOR, this led to some confusion for years.
Replacing the fuel pump, filter/regulator, or the whole assembly isn't hard, per say. If you can get your hands on a factory service manual, or a Chiltons manual, and follow the directions step by step, you'll be able to do the repair. It's completely possible to do with hand tools.
Always Put Safety First Whenever you’re dealing with flammable liquids like gasoline, there are certain precautions needed to minimize risk. If you’ve decided to take on the task of replacing a fuel pump yourself, avoid anything that could spark fumes, which can happen even with an empty gas tank.
We'll feature typical, at your own risk, repairs and upgrades for most Dodge, Plymouth, Duster, Dart, Barracuda, Cuda, fastback, notchback, convertible, Demon, Valiant, Signet, Dart Sport, a-body Mopar and the occasional 1998 Dodge Dakota R/T 5.9 Magnum, or maybe not. We focus on the years 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 and 1976. Special guest/camera girl Aaliya. Questions? Leave us a comment below. We're here to help. Thanks for Watching.
TO SHOW YOUR SUPPORT: Consider a membership.
SEND US STUFF:
910 Walton Street
McGregor, IA 52157
1500 52623
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