How to French Seam an Armhole

This week I'm finally sharing a sewing technique tutorial so many of you have been asking for - how to French seam an armhole. A French seam encases the raw edges of the fabric inside the seam and is often seen on tailored shirts or high end garments where an exceptionally neat finish is required. You can find a video on this technique here on our channel, however, lots of you wanted to see how to apply it to an armhole so here it is and it is easier than you might think too. In fact I would go as far as to say that it actually makes easing the sleeve in easier because you do it in stages rather than all in one go.

As always any tools or gadgets I use can be found on our website and I've included the links below.

[maureenkearns]

Im starting to sew An unstructured garment after 35 years of NOT sewing garments. I used to make tailored clothing including all of my late husbands suits and have been an avid quilter for 22 years. I just made a mock up of my first garment and could not remember how I made nice seams back in the day. SoI checked YouTube and found your channel, immediately subscribed. Thank you so much for a super tutorial because this is what I want to do, just didn’t know how to do the sleeves. The perfect video.

[DC-ohum]

We call it English seam over here in France 😘. I like to use it almost everywhere as well as flat seam.

[jenniferewart]

Thanks Lucy, great tutorial and so helpful for those of us sewists who don't have an overlocker.

[jenniferewart]

Thank-you so much Lucy, I don’t have an overlocker so I’ve always struggled with neat finishes on armholes,
this is a game changer for me !!!

[karenwetherall]

I was taught to ease by pinning the middles together between the pinned seams, then the middles between those pins, then again between those it evens out the distribution of the fullness.

[catherinelennon]

Thank you so much for this video, Lucy. Very informative.

[myinnermagpie]

Such a good idea. Ive always gathered two to three rows of gathering. Three is best for east and even gathers. Using stitches slightly smaller than long gathering stitches also helps the fabric gather into finer waves/pleats. I almost never have to redo sections. But I’m going to try your method now and it would be a time saver.

[shellyscott]

Thanks Lucy. Your “How to tutorials get better and better. I’ve been a huge fan of French seams for a long time, but always chickened out of armholes 😂, well not anymore ! You’ve explained the technique so clearly and simply that I’m feeling confident of success next time ! Thank you 🤗

[znycelondon]

I enjoyed watching and understand that slow and steady along with accurate placement and pressing is very important.
You did a perfect tutorial of explaining!
🥰

[roxannlegg]

Do you know (and this might be my years of dressmaking training in high school, by old school teaching back in the early 1980's), but i tack or baste everything that is going to be a pain in the bum. Literally, I tack almost everything with a curve or long seam that can "migrate". It seems tedious BUT it removes SO much stress, and I have won numerous awards over time for my work, and basting is my biggest secret! I had only just turned 12, when i started Clothing and Textiles in high School - yes it was a girls school but it was a Technical School, where students were still taught the usual etc etc, however we were absolutely drilled by masters in cooking and sewing. Esme in Great British Sewing Bee, is tame compared to these women who taught us. But that was a unique high school and almost the end of an era...now most adults can barely repair a hem or button!

[nanastevens]

Love the look of French seams, feel it is worth the extra effort for the nice finish.

[qormi]

Thank you Lucy. I can see me sewing French seams everywhere now :)

[skoop]

I love your 'bubble' pinning methond! Will definitely be using that the next time I set in a sleeve. Love your tutorials, they are so clear and easy to understand. Thanks for all your hard work!

[carolmichell]

Very timely! I’m making a viscose blouse with French seams and will be setting the sleeves either tomorrow or Sunday. I wasn’t looking forward to wrestling with the sleeves, but this video has given me a lot of help and reassurance. Thank you.

[published]

So glad to see this tutorial -- thank you. I just couldn't make the jump (in my head) from French Seam on a straight seam to a set in sleeve. Thank you!!

[lyndapalmano]

Hi Lucy I was shown a technique for pinning a sleeve. Roll the bodice over your fingers with the sleeve on the top. This distributes the fullness of the sleeve easily. Also taking the seam allowances down to 1cm makes a huge difference. Hope that you find this technique helpful. Love your videos.

[dianelrsmith]

Exellant!!!! What a great idea to do armhole French seams! I love French Seams! Thank you for your expertise and tips!!!

[cyndyregeling]

Brilliant! I could not get my head around that one when you talked of it ...and it is so simple! Thank you so much!!

[Buggalugz]

Thank you so much! I just couldnt get my head around this internal rotation and this was simple and easy to follow and it produced a great result <3

[kimwatts]

Thank you Lucy, for a well illustrated video😀