How to Replace Driver's Side CV Axle 2009-2014 Ford F-150

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This video shows you how to install a new CV axle in your 2009-2014 Ford F-150. A CV axle has flexible joints. Often, these joints wear out, or seize from contaminants due to the protective boot tearing open. A worn joint is prone to breakage, or other hazards. If your vehicle needs a new CV axle, install a quality TRQ axle that is engineered to your vehicle’s specifications.

This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2009 Ford F-150
2010 Ford F-150
2011 Ford F-150
2012 Ford F-150
2013 Ford F-150
2014 Ford F-150

🔧 List of tools used:
• 3/8 Inch Impact Gun
• Swivel
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Bearing Grease
• Wheel Chocks

⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[AAuto]

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√ Do it Yourself
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[OneCar_Garage]

When I removed my CV Axle, the seal was no longer usable and it came out in two pieces. I went to the Ford dealership and found the seal that you need to buy separately. In addition, I had to replace the vacuum actuator assembly that is on the wheel side. The part numbers from Ford are:

CV Axle Seal (SEAL - DUST): ALZ3Z-4B416-A
Actuator Assembly: 7L1Z-3C247-A, Replaces 5L1Z-3C247-A

FYI, you also need to use Moly Grease to place on the outside spline and bearings. Yes, actual Moly grease. I know you want to use the "Red n Tacky" that you already have, but it wont work right.

What should have been a 2 1/2 hour job (At least for me), turned into a 6 hour job. This is because:
1.) The seal broke off in two pieces, the second piece was press fit in and there is no good leverage to pry it out. (Extra 1:00)
2.) Almost every bolt that I tried to remove was rusted in place. Have some PB Blaster on hand, it definitely helps. (Extra 2:00)
3.) Staring at the stuck pieces and wondering what to do. (Extra :30)

[WandaWenzlawski]

I must say I have watched a lot of do it yourself car videos, this is the most clear and has the details needed, without all the other noise. We just finished this, and ours went exactly as the video. Great job, keep it up. Thank you for saving us a ton of money and time!

[tarzgamu]

Thats was awesome mechanic, learning good

[shanesayer]

wait for my parts 2013 going to be fun lol not with the winter rust been spraying everything down thx for the comments now I know what to watch out for ..

[NicholasScarfone-qz]

They need to mention for all the diy’s out there, that a lot of the time the axle seal will get stuck inside the crankcase and it’s hard to get out.

[jso]

I want to thank you for the helpful videos, I do appreciate them, but i have a question when reinstall the axel and getting it fully seat does t hat seal go all the way in or will about 2/16 still be showing because i cant tell is my completely seating . thank you again

[donmeade]

For replacing a drivers side cv axle on FX4 with 2" lift, do I need an extended travel cv axle or with stock replacement work?

[frankd]

Okay, great video, however, the front left CV axle inner seal stays within the differential, IT DOES NOT COME OFF with the old axle assembly. I did this same repair and couldn't figure out why the new assembly wouldn't seat correctly all the way into the diff. I finally realized that the seal shown in this video, and mine, broke into two pieces while removing.

I went to O'REILLY auto parts and obtained a new seal...the correct one is a one piece unit and it is pressed into the diff...it should not split into 2 pieces and one half (as shown in the video) come off with the axle assembly.

I removed the broken seal half from the diff and installed the new one (one piece correct seal), then installed the cv axle. It set correctly and all is sorted.

[philiprose]

Thank you! If I'm broke, can I take my axle out and drive it until I get enough money to buy an axle on the front of a 4x4?

[tremaynethornton]

On the divers side is the seal still visible if it’s in correctly?

[jasonmerritt]

Is there a seal on the differential as well? Are they the same?

[tagle]

I did the passenger side on my '13 but there was no seal on the axle. It's it possible it stayed on the pumpkin? It did have an o ring though.

[ThePudgie]

Nice job...easier than an '88 Olds I did in the past.

[shanesayer]

do you have a part number for the seal

[jaretfrappier]

So nothing as far as lubrication put on the splines going into the transfer case, right?

[ScoundrelOffRoad]

I'm doing this right now. My axle does not want to come out. Guess I just got to keep prying it.

[teamgoutdoors]

Wondering why he didn’t reconnect the tie rod when he put it together

[MaddSweetGT]

Why not replace the vacuum hose? Did you see all the dirt that fell out... Dang

[edgarkmilo]

I’d like to see his face when he realized that his ABS system is not working and he has to disassembly everything.