🔥 TIG Welding 1.6mm Stainless Fillets (Viewer Request)

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We had a request to weld up some 1.6mm (16 gauge) Stainless Steel using the TIG process and no pulse. The trick to TIG welding thin Stainless is to have a fast travel speed. The slower you go, the more oxides you are going to get, so hammer down and go!
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love that you showed you actually slipped rather than doing another take good weld tho

j.r.w
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The information and knowledge in these videos is only half the reason I watch them, the other is the banter between Bob and the Camera Guy.

erikdude
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RIP MR. BOB Watching again and again for review. Glad to see Bob still teaching.

MP-zvfm
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My favorite weld instructor. Always great information.

kevinmarshall
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Thanks Bob, These are the kind of video's we need. Nice work.

scottcarr
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Maybe you can do a video on what size tungsten and cup to use per material size and or weld joint? Any benefits to one over the other? Thanks as always, Bob.

mightylaidlow
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I'm going to be welding up a stainless plasma table water tank tomorrow same material thickness, thanks for the refresher!

CountryAireDesign
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I am really very grateful to you Mr.Bob

vaithilingamr
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Thank you for the demonstration it was very helpful !

karlofffstandford
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I started with mig but now trying to learn oxy/ acetylene welding I would love to see more videos on it

ericpeppers
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Thanks for the video as always. Sometime you should do a video on .120wall tubing (as commonly used in roll cages and off road parts like axel links/bumpers/etc). I have some projects I want to tig weld up for my truck soon and I am a bit confused. It seems it's recommended to do a full penetration weld on butt joints. Yet on notched tubes I see guys welding in other videos they keep the gap in the joint to a absolute minimum. I don't see how they are getting full penetration in tig in such cases without a gap. I could run way over amperage and I can't get full pen with a 0 gap. They aren't beveling the tube ends either. Any thoughts/advice/video would be great.

lakeschoolrestorationchann
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I've got a pretty cheap harbor freight 165 amp Tig. I mainly got it to do thin stuff like 12g steel horizontal welds. Thanks for the info

col.cottonhill
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Can you also do tig on 16 gauge outside corner joint? I am trying to make a small purge box for small parts that need major argon backing I’ve got an idea just haven’t done much will stainless outside corner joints at such thin gauges

ozzmann
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Can you do that with 1/8" tungsten ?

jamesdaniel
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When you are tig welding could you tell what type of tungsten you are using? If you only said what color that who be very helpful. Thanks a lot and I look forward to the next video.

ozbuds
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Bob, what would you change here for 20 Gauge Stainless Steel? Amperage only or cup size as well? Fillet size? My set up is same but 3/32 fillet on 20 gauge and struggling to control the puddle. Thanks for this video, working with it in the shop.

JeffPaisano
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I can’t seem to keep my heat in control. The whole weld turns grey except the last 1/4” to 1/2”. Im welding about 3/32” stainless. Ill turn my amps way down but I have to stay in the same spot for a long time it feels like to get the puddle going and then the base material seems to get really hot just as the puddle gets moving a little bit.

CascadePacificNW
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was this a number 6 with gas lens or just a number 6 ? im a newbie at welding

michaelcostello
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I took what in thought would be an easy test for a job this mornin and failed it. I just had to do two horizontal fillet welds just like this and then weld two cupons together fusing just the base metal with the tungston. Im a rookie at TIG welding and i was used to just tiggin on thick stainless pipes, that thin stuff is a different beast. I can see what i was doin wrong. I was wonderin If i hold the torch with my right should i be pushin or pullin the puddle on this thin stuff? And i noticed hes just runnin the bead along really easy without moving the cup at all i was taught to "walk the cup" id appreciate any helpful advice on the subject. They said if i got in a little practice or something and wanted to retake it i could

jessedeantindall
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Took a Stainless TIG test yesterday, bombed it (only second time I've welded Stainless). I was having two issues;
#1 vision- seeing what was going on clearly (I guess a 1.0 or a 1.25 cheater lens would help with that)
#2 getting the puddle to form and then move along. I had a similar set up to the one in the video. I set the machine to about 95 amps and gave pedal until I had a puddle. I tried to move out and things just wouldn't move like I would want. It seemed I either had too much heat or not enough and blew out the joint several times. I don't seem to have this kind if issue with carbon. The only two times I have ever welded stainless have been on tests (probably 90% of my problem). If I get another shot is there anything specific I should "look for" when attempting to initiate a puddle and then move out down a fillet or lap joint?
Thanks for the great videos.

johnt