How To Use Smaller Beams To Fix Sagging Roof In Older Garages With 2 x 4 Rafters

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Really Really Appreciate the clarity of the Diagram and of the Instructor's Clear Verbal Institutions. WOW!!! Really Makes it Easy to COMPREHEND!!! Thank You So Very Much!!

BenjaminCrossunknownalbumtitle
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I love this video … ( well most of your videos to be honest) this one to answer/ giving some clues on how to address the current issue I’m dealing with … many thanks

thomasb.
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This video was very helpful with some good ideas on how to fix my sagging garage roof thanks

Mrz
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Would you think it could work setting a beam made from 2 - 2x10s across the rafter ties running below but inline with the ridge. The top plate of the walls would be the main support on the ends after installing blocking flush with the rafters. I am working with a 24 long ridge and the ridge plate is 2 pieces vs one and that's where the sag has started, it's a significant drop in the center of the ridge (about 5" or so) and the walls do not seem to be effected by any means. I planned on creating this beam and sliding it in from the exterior gable end by cutting an area out then patching it back in. Once in place I figured I would utilize the rafter ties as additional support by using shims and plates to connect everything. Let me know what you think. I have 2x6 rafters so if there is a better way I am all for it.

nicholasholmes
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Great video.. We have a garage just like this.. We will try it. However we are going to add at least 2 -2x4 in the wall on edge to support the weight of your 4x6s in the rafters.... We are also going to measure from top plate to top plate and sill plate to sill plate to see how much our walls are out of plumb... Thank you for the ideas...

mikekrisik
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Thank you! This helps me tremendously. I now understand what someone did before me as a repair. Unfortunately they did it poorly.

jamesharper
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Great video, Greg ! Thank for your expertise.

dougstewart
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Terrific videos!!! I have an older 24x30 garage with 2x6 wall framing and a 2 x 4 truss system 24 inches on center with a metal roof screwed into the truss' upper cord (no sheathing). I would like to insulate and drywall the ceiling and walls. On occasion we can have some heavy snow loads so I'd like to fortify the truss system just in case. That I said I have no sagging now. I've thought that sistering the bottom cord with 2x6s might help? I don't really want to create additional work for no real benefit. Maybe just lightweight drywall and insulation will be fine. Any thoughts?

scotthallenberg
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I like your suggestions. I was thinking you could gain a little bit more length if you came in diagonally giving you more support on the top plates.

esmirovargas
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I moved into our old family house and it is almost hundred years old. And it needs a lot of repairs, and most notably the home needs some foundation repair, not major, just some lagging floors in the center room (dining) and some sinkage at one end of the house due to some moisture (kitchen). Another concern is the roof, it is sagging in some areas ( mostly in the area were the foundation is sinking), so I have some major rain water leaking, that I have to but buckets out when a good storm hits. The foundation is on post and I am doing most the repairs myself. My question is, should I start with the foundation or the roof first. I am inclined to start the roof first because of the annoying leaks when it rains. Your suggestion is appreciated.

albertotorressr.
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What is the original reason the roof ridge sagged? Was it due to undersized 2x4 rafters? Or was the problem due to the rafter ties undersized or they were not tied to the wall top plates well enough allowing the walls to bow out ? I’m thinking a combination of all three issues with the main culprit being rafters were undersized?

loueber
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Back in my day four/five decades ago the UBC allowed one to just simply use purlins and struts supported on a strut flange running on top of the ceiling joints with a 2x strut beam nailed on edge along the side of the strut flange.

Oldhogleg
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Hello, My rafter ties are coming apart allowing the walls to sag. How do I pull the walls back true? I have a 20 foot rafter tie that is bracket attached to a 16 foot counter part that is stretching the distance of the width of the pole barn. it is coming apart. I have a 1/2" gap between the two butted rafter ties. I need to pull it back tight somehow getting rid of the gap.

dhomant
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I have a 20’ x 20’ concrete block 2 car garage. It has a loft in half of the garage. The previous owners used the garage for a party room for their kids and storage in the attic. They nailed one of garage doors to the wall. I’ve noticed the roof is sagging. I’d like to put a usable garage door back in but need to fix the sag first. At least I would think so. I really don’t want a post in the middle to support the roof. It has a 1” x 6” down the middle. The build 1965.

lisalady
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What if I have two garage doors an 8' and a 12 '? I act or rafter ties 20 into a 40' garage.

gavinhess
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I built a 20 by 17 room. The inspector told me to brace the ridge. How can I do that.? Thank u.

gabriellujan
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Steel cable with a turnbuckle perhaps.

mrreams
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I would want some kind of lamination, gluelam, homemade sistered beams. I've seen how knots are a weak point, lamination works around that.
Some applications don't have access to fit an 18 ft rafter in, sistering in place, two or three wide can work. Plywood would be rigid enough I wonder about strength though.

rp
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Hi
I have the same problem but in an old house..only 2 x 4' s in the ceiling, not even rafters and the wall is pushed out at the ceiling about 3". This is kinda the same idea, but do you have video already for a house also?

janetlarsen
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Running a string from one end to another along the outside ridge, (at what point) how many inches of sag in the middle should I address a sagging roof?

haven