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How To Light A Cinematic Interior Shot - With 3 Lights
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Lighting is pretty damn important if you're looking to make cinematic footage, especially indoors - a good camera will help for low light, but learning to control the way the scene is lit is going to look way more cinematic than simply relying on your camera to do all the work.
It's good to think about it in terms of painting the scene with light - you start in pitch black and slowly introduce elements of lighting to draw interest and add texture to the shot.
After blocking out the daylight from the shot, I turned the lamp/practical on, to set the tone for the scene and how it would then be lit - it also added some subtle back light and separation for the subject.
I then added the 1st red head in as key light, which was a really hard light, making some harsh shadows - so I softened it with the diffusion in the middle of a 5-in-1 reflector.
I then played around with adding interest to the background, using the household ceiling lamp and adding a streak of light from another room using the 2nd red head, which was a little distracting, so diffusion was added to soften it up and call a little less attention to it.
The 3rd red head was used to create a second "lamp", making a bright patch on the wall and subtly implying that our key light was in fact coming from a light just off-camera, tying the lighting together and making it more believable.
All I used (excluding stands!) was a cheap set of 3 800w tungsten red head lights (Amazon or Ebay are easy for these) and the diffusion material from the middle of a standard 5-in-1 reflector (again, Amazon or Ebay).
As long as you've got some material for blacking daylight out, you can easily light night interiors during the day. This can even just be the curtains that are already there. There isn't really any set rules on what you can use to black light out, as long as your camera can't see any daylight spilling into the scene then you've done the job!
Black Magic Micro Cinema Camera
Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 ART
Hoya UV/IR Cut
Metabones MFT - Nikon Speedbooster
It's good to think about it in terms of painting the scene with light - you start in pitch black and slowly introduce elements of lighting to draw interest and add texture to the shot.
After blocking out the daylight from the shot, I turned the lamp/practical on, to set the tone for the scene and how it would then be lit - it also added some subtle back light and separation for the subject.
I then added the 1st red head in as key light, which was a really hard light, making some harsh shadows - so I softened it with the diffusion in the middle of a 5-in-1 reflector.
I then played around with adding interest to the background, using the household ceiling lamp and adding a streak of light from another room using the 2nd red head, which was a little distracting, so diffusion was added to soften it up and call a little less attention to it.
The 3rd red head was used to create a second "lamp", making a bright patch on the wall and subtly implying that our key light was in fact coming from a light just off-camera, tying the lighting together and making it more believable.
All I used (excluding stands!) was a cheap set of 3 800w tungsten red head lights (Amazon or Ebay are easy for these) and the diffusion material from the middle of a standard 5-in-1 reflector (again, Amazon or Ebay).
As long as you've got some material for blacking daylight out, you can easily light night interiors during the day. This can even just be the curtains that are already there. There isn't really any set rules on what you can use to black light out, as long as your camera can't see any daylight spilling into the scene then you've done the job!
Black Magic Micro Cinema Camera
Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 ART
Hoya UV/IR Cut
Metabones MFT - Nikon Speedbooster
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