The Ultimate Guide to Tuning Your VW/Audi 1.8T 20V: How to make Power!

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The VW/Audi AGU 1.8T 20V engine, launched in 1996, has become an iconic and popular choice for tuning and building horsepower. With its durability and potential for performance upgrades, this engine has found its way into various VW and Audi models, including the MK4 GTI, MK5 Jetta, B5 Passat, and many more. In this definitive guide, we will take you through the stages of upgrading your 1.8T 20V engine, from the stock setup to achieving high horsepower while ensuring engine block integrity.
Now when making these kinds of videos I like to start with your stock motor so stock these VW/Audi motors made from 120HP up to around 180HP. And in the golf 4 GTi which featured the 180HP version it could propel this hot hatch from 0-60 in 7.9 seconds. But since the release of these engines people have figured out exactly how to extract the most power possible.
Stage 1: The stock turbo’s on these motors leave a lot to be desired so where as with most engines we start simple here I would say from the get go Upgrade Turbo on the Original System. The K04 turbocharger is a popular choice, capable of delivering approximately 225 HP with minor modifications or around 210 HP with just the turbo and tuning. Upgrading the exhaust manifold, downpipe, intercooler, and intake system is essential to maximize the turbo's performance. And when the right supporting mods are done you could make around 230HP. But lets say you want more, but you don’t want to go thru the hassle of opening the motor and strengthening stuff.
So stage 2: Now with these mods you should make (up to 275 HP) and the motor would happily make it. Now in this stage you need to get, an upgraded intake hose, and a fuel pump upgrade to support the increased power output. And then All the parts from Stage 1 should be retained. So bigger turbo, intercooler downpipe etc. Now this is a safe place to chill if you just want a fun daily driver with some pep.
Before we start talking about mods for stage 2 and even stage 3 lets talk engine as it would be recommended to upgrade some internals depending on your goals. Now This engine has undergone several updates and different engine codes over the years, but it can be categorized into two main generations of engine blocks: 058 and 06A.
The early 058 engine block was found in early Audi B5 A4 and VW Passat models produced from 1996 to mid-2000. It features an internal intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump and an external water pump driven by an accessory belt. The late 06A engine block, introduced in mid-2000, eliminated the intermediate shaft and updated the timing belt-driven water pump. This block is found in newer models and offers improved reliability.
Both the 058 and 06A blocks use 5 two-bolt main caps. It's important to reinstall the main caps in the exact location and orientation as removed. Factory main caps should be replaced with performance main bearings as power levels increase to withstand additional bearing loads and reduce friction and wear. The crank itself if made out of forged steel so it should be strong enough for most applications
But before installing the crank and new bearing back into the engins, Upgrading the engine hardware is crucial for high horsepower builds. Factory one-time use stretch bolts should be replaced with aftermarket options like IE/ARP bolt, especially if you plan on pushing your car beyond 400HP.
Then the timing system is a weak point in the 1.8T engine, and failures can result in complete engine failure. Which would not be ideal. Upgrading the timing belt tensioner and drive gear with reinforced options, like those offered by IE, strengthens these interfaces and protects your engine investment.
When it comes to building your pistons and rods for power, different power levels require specific upgrades. For power levels between 300-400HP, upgrading the connecting rods with forged options, while retaining the stock pistons, is a proven and reliable combination. Most H-beam rods should be fine, just remember normally the expensive brands are expensive for a reason. Then Upgrading connecting rods and pistons with high-performance forged options becomes necessary for power levels exceeding 400HP. Before we go on the stock pistons and rods can handle 350ish Hp but you are pushing them pretty hard at the point.

#1.8t #audi #VW #AGU
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Yes, I would love to see a build.I just got an A4 B6. I want to build a daily street car at 300-350, a fun car, and as reliable as it can be. I'm looking forward to it more videos.

antoinemiller
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You tried. I appreciate the effort. I really do. I want more people to learn and love these cars…..unfortunately there is a lot of incorrect information in here.

geoffreyperman
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That's pretty impressive the 1.8t Engine can handle 350hp stock. It's a fantastic platform.

BOOSTEDDUDE
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Your path is different from most. Stages are defined by canned tune vendors. Once you go custom, there is not a stage definition. Currently I'm running a 1.8t with upgrade main bearings, stock caps and bolts. IE rods, wiesco pistons. Head is built with super tech springs and retainers Ferrera valves and stock cams. ID1300 injectors, pte6062 gen2 and custom 3" exhaust. Aem400 fuel pump and snow water meth. 562hp on 93 octane. I did most of the work myself. Alot can be left stock and a 2.0 stroker set up is not necessary. The motor does not mind 350hp stock, but it has to be tuned to limit bottom end torque. If you do build it and have nice bottom end torque, or go 2.0, build the transmission. That's where the bulk of the money goes!

lilmangofast
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Stock AMU engine, or BAM version in Europe, have 225 Hp, not 180 since they already came with your recommended KO4 turbo…but I enjoyed your video and it gives me ideas. Thanks

Thomas-rxur
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I drive a 05' Ibiza Cupra 1.8 20V/T, (serial 180HP), Chipped 210HP 340NM, 256Kp/h.
Its one of the best engines that VAG ever build

RaczBela
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I'd enjoy seeing the progress on your build.

rjung_ch
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Not all engine codes have forged cranks, and the big port heads dont need porting but the small flow ones would benefit but depends if you want high or low end torque. When it comes to the rods you should be stating the torque figures for breaking point not the horsepower.
I look forward to seeing your build in future videos.

CliffBA
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Proud owner of a 2004 b5.5 passat 1.8t 4motion 5speed. Wonderful car and have slowly been building it last couple years. Power coming soon!

jakeeames
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Proud owner of 2 b5s currently myself can’t wait to start making vids on my big turbo car and my ko4 car

jimbeam
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I have watched this video twice now and yes while they can handle HP stock they can not handle the TQ.

TheSohckid
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I’m looking forward for more videos. I just got a MK4 GTi 1.8t and it’s going to be my daily . And I want to upgrade parts . And at least have between 350 -400 HP .

dariusgriffin
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Nice video but the first thing one should do when they wish to add more power to a car is upgrade the vehicles suspension and braking system as failure to do so will cause the car to just crash as it simply wasn't built with those power levels in mind. I can't tell you how many people I've seen the did thing backwards and ended up crashing the car when they were out having a bit of fun.

As a rule of thumb start with the vehicles suspension system, them move on to the braking system, upgrade the seats is also a good idea but it's not required. I took a VW Scirocco to new levels by doing things this way as I was suddenly able to corner like a boss and stop on a dime. I replaced the springs, sway bars, each and every bushing, even on the steering rack. I mean everything was changed but I stopped short of getting a roll bar. I put on upper and lower stiffing bar and another one on the shock towers in the rear. Then I got Bilstein shock absorbers front and rear, with some racing brakes slotted and drilled. I updated the master cylinder and vacuum chamber and went on to remove every piece of rubber replacing it with polyurethane. I had to have some specially made sway bar mounts as the one's that came with the bolt on kit were trash.
After I was done with all of this then I went on to upping the power to the point where my Scirocco could take on 911's and win.
Sadly I had to get rid of the car as VW refused to give me any support for the aging Scirocco as it needed a wiring harness and a few other things due to being driven all over the USA as I took that car coast to coast several times and even down into Mexico and up to Canada. That car was just so fun to drive but without manufacture support on getting parts I had no choice but to have the car crushed. The funning thing was VW wanted me to buy a new car and I told them that with they way they supported me as my car got older I'd never buy another one of their cars and thus far I have kept that promise.

hopower
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Refreshing to hear a South African narrate

TalkSteer
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Great video! Currently building an AWP out of my GLI and will soon be converting my 2.0 NA GLS into a turbo…. Probably using retired gli parts since I have them

TurtleVerified
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Looking forward to the build...Hopefully your build stops me from wanting to swap my B5A4 Avant...

kashproductions
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Just like to say that you don’t need a bigger turbo to make this power for stage 1
K03/K03s starts to strain past 250 but you can achieve that with TIP, induction kit, 3” down pipe, recirc valve and a good tune will see 230, 240. That’s when you’ll need a new turbo to fake it higher.
Also, these engines ARE NOT rated past 300 without forged rods.

samuelmansell
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Nice engines👍 My Golf 4 has the AUQ. Still standard except for a K03S Hybrid, downpipe, stainless exhaust and REVO Stage 1

BogusBolloks-mfwq
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for decent 400hp just have - 1000cc injectors,
300-400lph fuel pump,
rod and rod bearing, ARP kit,
Bigger turbo 30xx gtx, westgate and blowoff,
SMF 240mm and rs4 clutch kit, in long run youll fix more weak pints so as gearbox :) and shifter

walther
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When do you advise a person upgrade the gearbox or diff? From single front wheel drive to 2 wheel front drive ?

grantalley