Get more HOT water out of your water heater with this NEW tool

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*NOTE: This description contains affiliate links that allow you to find the items mentioned in this video and support the channel at NO COST TO YOU. While this channel may earn minimal sums when the viewer uses the links, the viewer is in NO WAY obligated to use these links. Thank you for your support!
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Thanks for watching! I'm Roger Wakefield, The Expert Plumber, and welcome to my channel. On this channel, it's ALL about plumbing. We play games, we experiment, and we have FUN here, talking and learning about all things plumbing!
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As a property manager taking over a legacy account, I had to fix a lot of "deferred" (not ever done) maintence issues. A tenant complained of no hot water, so I
checked the 13 year old electric heater, which was working, and asked the tenant if anyone had ever drained the tank. He said not to his
knowledge, so I shut off the power and cold inlet, and hooked a 6 ft washer hose to the drain(it was an elevated tank in a mobil home with outdoor access). Upon opening the valve, I saw no flow, so I put the hose to my lips like a bugle and blew into it, and dislodged the sediment, which then properly drained out. That was MY sediment buster. And BTW, I was 75 years old, so excessive strength was not a factor. I think the volume of air flow was more important than the pressure.

joelee
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A double garden hose splitter attached to drain valve works just as well. One hookup goes to compressed air tank at 40 psi and other is your discharge hose/line. Both manifolds have its own valve so you can toggle between compressed air and discharge hose.

habbadabbado
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I'm always wary of commercial channels, and I always thought yours was one.

But I've started watching more of your content. I appreciate the knowledge you share. Thanks!

Shogunersash
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I’ve always connected my hose and started to drain before turning off the water which will force any blockages out using street pressure.
You can also just use a Milwaukee transfer pump which will suck the sediment out as well as drain the heater in like 6 minutes.

delmarsmith
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The Milwaukee M18 pump is awesome for draining water heaters. I feel like that pump with this attachment could flush a water heater FAST. With the impeller design of the M18 pump, it would handle that size debris fine.

paulmorrow
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I just picked up a Y from walmart, and used a quick connect coupling for a water hose, the nipple on it fits a air hose rubber nipple tight, then put water hose on the other Y, and just crack the valve and shoot compressed air in it shut valve and repeat, cost like 8$ in parts, compared to like 40$ for that thing.

SomeRandomDudeNT
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Thanks for this. You've just solved a couple of problems for me. I've been planning to replace a water heater that's been in place for 52 years. So much sediment that there is no way to drain it, and I cannot move it by myself while it's full. This just might do the trick, and save me a whole lot of toil and sweat.

And I have a similar situation with one that's been in place for 27 years. If it works for me, this thing will be worth every penny of the $40 it costs. 👍👍👍

DrMaserati
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I use city water pressure with a hose hooked up at the bottom of the tank and let that blow the crud out of the tank . I let it run under city water pressure for 4 to 5 minutes, that usually makes a good path through the crud. If it’s so bad that that doesn’t work, unscrew the pop off and put a pice of Pex pipe through the hole and pump it out with a transfer pump . Crimp a hose bib connection one end of the pex and use a washing machine hose to go to your pump, run it out with a large garden hose .

jenko
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Hey roger... i recommend when doing this kind of maintenance, leaving the gas valve on pilot setting because if im not mistaken thats the setting you were talking about. I believe the vacation setting will still turn on the flame as to keep the water at minimum temperature so not to allow build up of bacteria when not in use for a long time. Again i could be mistaken

JeffreyMota
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As an apprentice (former) - I asked the master plumber about a sky valve… now I am applying to be an electrician apprentice or erosion control inspector.

ohokayofficial
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I drain my tank, pump 5 gal of vinegar into tank using small sump pump. Then hook up air compressor and a really small opening so air continually agitates vinegar. After 6 hours, drain vinegar. Then suck with shop vac to get as much sludge out as possible. Works for me.

brucecampbell
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I bought the sediment buster and it worked fine with a bicycle pump. I could hear the huge bubbling on the inside of the tank. It really did work to unclog the drain and get sediment out. Dont be afraid to try a plain old bike pump first.

stevensmith
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I worked for the gentleman who created this tool, he’s a plumber by trade very good guy, it works I have one.

Shayjamusic
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I think that was the best idea that that guy ever did keep on going❤

RamonIntriago-xp
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Finally, this is the best one you've found. I hope you delete your other one with that damn drain snake you use a drill with to ruin the inside of your tank. You're gonna have some pissed off people when they mess up their tanks with that thing. This Sediment Buster is far better for the user and the unit. I'm serious, that other video could come back to haunt you. This one is good; the best out there so far. You don't need that other video in your library here. We learn, make mistakes, fix them and go forward. Thanks for the video.

floridaredneck
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I cut a failed water heater open from my own house. Not only was I shocked to find the leaks and future leaks, were at the top! But heated water rises.
Also surprised, but the cold water inlet tube was bent 90 degrees near the bottom and circles 75% of the sediment area with little spray holes drilled in it every 3”. This will keep sediment loose for draining. But the ironic point was the glass lining at the top thinned allowing hot water to rust pin holes at the top!
If I drain my tank to keep it efficient, and it plugged, I have an air blower to attach to one of 6 air hoses at 50’ in length. I have lots of air hose with 130 PSI compressor. Thanks kindly for the information.

deankay
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Replace the cheap drain valve with a good globe valve with a handle after draining the water out. Then, with the drain valve still open, open the water supply valve and let that water, poring and splashing onto the bottom of the tank, stir up the remaining sediment and wash it out through the drain valve. Then when the water runs clear you can close the drain valve and let the tank fill up until it starts coming out of the hot water faucet. Then close the hot water faucet and turn the hot water heater back on.

Drain some water out every three to four months to clean any sediment out and it should never be a problem again.

Allen-wd
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When I first saw you using that bicycle pump on the water tank, I thought that you must be testing the temperature and pressure relief valve.

BlackHoleForge
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I use a full port valve and a vacuum hose into a drain. Water runs through like Mexican food at a baseball game. I also try to flush my tank once or twice a year since my water is so terrible. It should be better now however since our village got an RO system installed.

Vortechtral
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my 15 yr old water heater started leaking. I had changed anode a couple of times. after it was out i looked it over. plastic valve was the culprit. could have been easy fix. and tank looked like new inside. our Culligan water filter had done its job

kenreice