Can you Fix an Engine Burning Oil for $20

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If your engine is burning oil, this could cost you a lot of time an money. Filling your engine up with oil every time you fill you car with gas is unbearable. Often times the way to fix oil burning requires your engine to be rebuilt.
With a lot of products on the market that claim to be able to fix your engine, we test them to see if they actually work.
We also explain the issue of low compression rings, and tear down an engine that was burning oil to find what may have caused this.

Links Talked about in this video
BG Dynamic Engine Restoration

Liquimoly Pro Line Engine Flush

Liquimoly Viscoplus

Ball End Triple Square Bit Set

Audi Oil Consumption Repair Set with Updated Pistons

Updated 1.8t Piston

Updated 2.0t Audi Piston

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This Video was shot at our VW and Audi Specialty Shop
DAP Repair
10308 Bailey Rd
Suite 408
Cornelius NC 28031
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Shop for VW and Audi Parts Here

Check out our VW/Audi Shop located in Cornelius NC

More info on DAP Reward Credit

VW and Audi Repair in Kent or Akron Ohio
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Time Stamps
Intro 00:14
Explaining the Problem and Solutions 02:05
Performing BG Dynamic Engine Flush 04:19
Liquimoly Engine Flush 11:50
1.8t VW Engine Tear Down 15:27
Oil Burning Wrap Up 23:32
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Links for stuff in this video -
Our Repair Shop - DAP Repair

Our VW and Audi Parts Site

BG Dynamic Engine Restoration

Liquimoly Pro Line Engine Flush

Liquimoly Viscoplus

Ball End Triple Square Bit Set

Audi Oil Consumption Repair Set with Updated Pistons

Updated 1.8t Piston

Updated 2.0t Audi Piston

Deutscheautoparts
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In 1970 to 1974 I trained to be an engineer (UK) Our training officer, always used flushing oil during the oil changes. It went like this; Drop the old oil, fill with flushing oil, which was thinner than normal oil, run for a set period, drop the flushing oil, change filters and then fill with the correct oil spec. He was highly regarded, and he ran old cars...forever! I took up this practice, for a while, but, it got harder to find the same flushing oil. All you could get was a small can to add to the old oil, before you changed the oil. That didn't seem so effective. Peace be unto you.

martinwarner
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Here is the recipe to solve 2.0tfsi oil burning. Get the engine hot. Remove spark plugs, mix 2oz PB Blaster, 1oz B-12 Chemtool, and 1/2oz MMO. Pour this mix in this quantity in to each cylinder. As you pour, you'll hear the mix boiling in the cylinder. Always exercise good safety protocol. Let it sit with a paper towel in the spark plug hole until the piston is visually dry (24hrs). Take a compressed air blower with a long snout and put it in the spark plug hole and blow. You will not believe the amount of dried carbon that will blow out. You'll typically find the culprit cylinder at this time based on the amount of carbon blowing out. Crank the engine over with the plugs out to remove excess liquid. Install the plugs and drive the vehicle around the block. Repeat all of these steps again. This cleans the piston crown and rings from the top side. When starting the engine after the second soak, dump in a can of BG EPR or LiquiMoly engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. this cleans the rings from the bottom side. Change the oil and filter and call it a day! This cured an engine burning 1qt every 200 miles @160k miles. It now burns nothing between 5k mi oil changes. You will have to repeat this every so often (2-3 oil changes) as the rings will re-clog. Yes its a pain, but it beats the cost of a new engine.

danielhurley
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wow, this video escalated quickly from an oil change to complete teardown and explanation. Loved every bit of it!

awaara
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Before engine flush was a thing we used to mix diesel into a new batch of oil. Let the engine idle for an hour. Then we leveled the pistons and filled the cylinder with the some of the oil/diesel mix and left it the night over. Emptied the cylinders, changed oil, filter and plugs. Worked really well.

NICOLAI_VET
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Lots and lots of time spent making this video. Great job! 🤘

JamiesGarage
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Great video, glad I could help with supplying the engine! Great knowledge to be learned here, thanks Paul and everyone at DAP.

KobraPun
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I once purchased an old Range Rover V8 which was very sluggish, so I threw a bottle of Wynns's Engine Flush into the oil and drove the vehicle home (1000km journey). After 200km the engine suddenly loosened up and pulled like a work horse. Was very impressed with the Wynn's flush. I use the cheapest oil I can find and when doing an oil change, I add a bottle of Wynn's Charge to the oil and have never had a problem. I change the oil annually or 10 000km which ever comes first. I drive a 1996 Opel Kadette.

lastmanstanding
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To let you know, using engine flush, follow directions and get the gunk out of engines, including piston rings. This then allows the oil rings to expand to make a better seal with the cylinder walls, reducing oil burning. All engines with over 60 K miles can benefit from this procedure.

akesha
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One thing we all can gather from this video is check your oil more often. If your car doesn’t have an oil level sensor, you can easily damage your engine by running your engine too low on oil!
Also I run “Marvel’s Mystery Oil” in my personal vehicles and I don’t have any oil consumption issues.

benztech
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I haven't used the BG kit, but I have used the Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush many times. First time was on a 2006 Volvo S60 T5 with 80k miles on it. The previous owner took it to the dealer for conventional oil changes every 7500 miles. It was burning about a liter of oil every 1100 miles and after we used the engine flush, the filter was about half full of sludge flakes. It ended up using only about half a liter of oil over 5k miles after that. If I kept my foot in it, it would be a liter every 2500 miles. Second time was a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer with 260k miles on it. It hadn't had an oil change for 35k miles and had a tractor-like idle. We ended up changing the oil and filter before we did the flush and because I was busy at work, it ended up running for 45 minutes instead of 20 minutes. When we drained that oil, it was actually a dark grey instead of a black. We filled that one up with Royal Purple 5w30 and a wix XP oil filter. One funny thing was at the idle was still rough, just less so, but when you gave it throttle, the engine got so smooth you couldn't feel it running. The same thing happened with the Volvo, but it felt more like a sewing machine's soft vibration. Those are just the two notable stories for now. I might have another with a 2006 Nissan Maxima with 300k miles coming up. That one uses 2 quarts within 3500 miles.

MarcelloTheBandit
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The 30psi increase is certainly an improvement... 5psi is surely within the error margin just after an oil change lol.

rkan
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My car burned oil bad like 2 months ago but I pulled my head of and put new valve guide seals in among other things and it hasn't lost any since 👍 I got a 130000 mile 2.slow

isaiahabrahambonilla
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way back in my day we did this process but instead of using expensive treatments we used a quart or so of diesel and kerosene added to the old oil ran it for a while then changed the oil and added another quart of d/k ran it and drove it for a while then changed the oil again.. it worked pretty good at removing sludge and build up

whitefreeman
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At Honda we have 3 successful BG dynamic services and those were the only ones sold the past year so 3/3 isn’t bad so far lol I know it’s a whole different brand/engine (09-15 V6 with VCM) but wanted to mention in case people got the wrong idea of BG, they’re great products and work extremely well! Hence the slight improvement from the Passat you did. Based on potential shitty maintenance. That carbon is a bitch to break down based on my fair share of engine tear downs. Either way I love using Liqui Moly stuff they recommend the flush every 30k and it helps out a lot as well!

GreyMKJet
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The editing and subtle humor in this video is classic. Quality content all around

synctwisted
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the "low tension" piston ring is a misunderstanding; the pressure put on the cylinder walls is the same (and so just as effectively prevents blowby), but because the rings are thinner, there's less surface area on which the pressure can apply force, thus applying less force and by extension less friction. The issues come when, like you say, the oil control rings get prematurely clogged or are poorly designed and it stops working.

CreeperOnYourHouse
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I use the liquimoly engine flush which I buy from Napa in my 2003 BMW 330ci. The M54b30 is notorious for burning oil. On 2 separate cars with the same engine I went from burning a qt every 400-500 miles to a qt every 1200 or so. I then use it before every other oil change along with 5w40 liqui moly leichluft oil and it just keeps getting better. Both cars are an excess of 230k miles.

flipfinish
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The oil control rings are different as well. The revised ones are the wave type, opposed to the notched type.

neilwalker
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I find 1L of oil per 1200 miles completely unacceptable. My 2011 Audi A3 has “consumed” about this quantity of oil since it was new and Audi would not do anything about it. I think the manufacturers should be held accountable! Cheers Drew

DrewFixIt