Cura Settings for Retraction and Raft on Creality Ender 3 or CR-10 Mini

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Chuck shows you two important Cura Settings for Retraction and Raft on Creality Ender 3 or CR-10 Mini. He explains how to adjust them to get zero strings and easy to remove rafts in this episode of Filament Friday. The settings will work on just about any 3D Printer but he tested them on the Creality Ender 3, Geeetech A10, CR-10 and CR-10 Mini and all of them worked perfectly.

Makers Muse Creality Ender 3 Pro Video:

Settings from @ChazMeister2

Creality Ender 3/CR-10 Parts:
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Creality Ender 3:
Creality Ender 3 Pro:

Geeetech A10:
CR10 Mini
CR-10:
CR-10S

Geeetech A20:

A10M

A20M

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Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter.
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This video is old. I’ve incorporated the changes into my Cura profiles.
New link in description of any of my videos.

FilamentFriday
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Glad we got that stringing sorted. Weird watching a YouTube video that mentions you. I appreciate the link in the description too. Thanks for all the useful videos!

ChazMeister_
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3 years later, I had to revisit this video. Thanks

jvha
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Chuck thank you, i have been puling my hair out as nothing was working, i went right back to the very begging of set up and started from there and still prints where fair at best. I applied these and the prints are bang on and looking amazing thank you for sharing and to the others whom have helped with these directions for people like me whom are so new and frustrated this has helped me so much

beaker
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Please continue doing videos like this. Going in showing individual settings that fix specific problems are the most helpful to me great job in your filament is also an amazing thank you love that stuff

Climer
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listen to this guy..rafts are my new best friend...stuff just pops off when done...and gives the bottom a cleaner surface too...very helpful..thank you ..

mattbertwell
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While this page is old, I have a great discovery for built plate adhesion. I got sick of the factory Ender-3 plastic deck pretty quickly. I just couldn't get materials to stick to it. I don't like the idea of glue or spray so I switched to one of the spring-steel aftermarket plates. Has worked FABULOUSLY for a couple years now but recently I had trouble getting filament to stick to it. I cleaned it SPOTLESS, no grease (from hands) no contaminants of any kind. It got WORSE. Then I had an epiphany that solved the whole problem and it is BETTER now than it ever was!! The solution: 120 grit sanding roll. I sanded the plate across thoroughly, and front to back the same. I cleaned it completely again and voila!! Everything sticks awesome while it's hot and once cool it comes right off. Many items I used to have to use a raft for no longer require it.

sjwhitney
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I can safely say I have never found a more helpful channel on YouTube. I’ve watched more of your filament Friday videos in the last week since getting my printer than I’ve watched anything else.

It’s also one of the most in depth video series I’ve ever seen. You explain what you’re going to talk about.... explain it in a way that I feel most people get.... show us an example or 2.... and move on. I love it. Not a 30 minute video. No fluff around the edges. Info that’s helpful and explained well.

I just wanted to say thanks. You’re a real help to us beginners, and I’m sure even skilled printers learn a thing or 2. Fantastic videos. Keep em coming. 10/10.

gasser
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Absolutely love the signal to noise ratio in your videos. So much wealth in ~5 minute videos !

TheSolderingGuy
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thanks for sharing the retraction trick. i would have never thought to slow down the retraction

antonwinter
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BAM just like that no stringing! PERFECT. Coincidentally I had just printed a CHEP calibration cube right before finding this video :)

richgrasty
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Chuck, I just started with 3D printing. Picked up a used CR-10 Mini and am experimenting with getting just the right settings. So many variables, but am getting the hang of it. Thing is, I keep seeing your videos when searching for answers and guess what, you've come through for me more times than not. Subscribed.

Explore-Gobal
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12.07.22 noob with new neo max and these two items saved me from the massive migraine 3D printing was giving me. 👏

graphguy
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CHEP you rock i just finished printing with the new profile and wow just wow thanks so much for bringing together all these great videos with fantastic instructions to repeat your success :)

toxicfinger
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Top notch stuff right there. Been struggling with that stringing issue as well. Tested this right away and it works! Thank you.

williamhall
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Why was this video so hard to find?
Life saver!

tyler
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Those raft settings are brilliant! I had trouble printing the Extruder Knob for my Ender 3 because the top had such a complex pattern that it didn't stick to the bed. One of the four "cloverleaves" kept coming loose and after 4 failed tries (changing bed temperatures, cleaning the bed with IP, seriously slowing down print speed, ...) I was ready to give up but then I remembered this video. Since the knob has a much larger flat area, I feared the raft would stick to it but no - it came off brilliantly, leaving no marks at all and it printed beautifully. I may use this for any model from now on that has a complex first layer.

redavatar
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Thank you for this. Simple and to the point. WAY too many minutes of my day were wasted watching videos that were just not that great at fixing this

Stephen
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Thank you so much for the explanation. I was having a hard time printing pillars 9cm high and 4mm diameter and was getting a wobbled finish at the top. These worked brilliantly. The raft settings have made a huge difference.

fivelittlescholarsca
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Trapping a ptfe tube between the coupling and nozzle is a great idea. I use a Festo 4mm air line coupling in place of the printed one you show in the video. Same principle. Had my ender 3 for 2 months now and your videos have been invaluable.

tedc