Do Not Install Underfloor Heating With a Heat Pump Before Watching This Video

#heatpump #ufh #heating

In this video, we are looking at a heat pump installation in a high heat loss property with an underfloor heating system from Jupiter.

[UrbanPlumbers]

I am organising a follow up ton to this video. What questions do you want answered by the owner of this system?

[BrianJense]

follow-up video would be awesome. Just to know if the product really delivered on its promise.

[deanchapple]

Give your staff a tip. Looks like they work hard! 👍🏼😁

[wimcruycke]

Hi, great work & big fan of the channel as a plumber started in 1988. In my house I have installed 100mm Celotex between the joist (20mm below top of the joist to allow heat circulation and to avoid hot spots). Covered with pre-routed 22mm OSB (16mm pipe 150mm space), then covered the osb with 6mm Hardie backer board (good heat transfer & mass). Finished with 16mm engineered oak floorboards. All works great! Look forward to the follow up video!

[dan.vitale]

another great video. never stop being impressed by your team's dedication :)

[wellplumbed]

Looking forward to the follow up & seeing if it achieves the 70w/m.
Great call on the extra rad to enable the lowest possible floor temp.
Labour intensive indeed...at least you know now for next time!

[enemyofthestatewearein]

Very good system, my parents have Jupiter UFH in their self build and it works at very low flow temps, even with carpets and wood floors. Most of the year it runs under 30c and it never needs to go over 40c even when it's freezing. But given that this is apparently a full house refurb, I'm astonished that the customer didn't instead insulate & plasterboard the external walls. The cost savings on the heating system (using cheap & quick standard overlay panels, and a smaller HP) should have covered most of the cost for the insulation, if not all of it, and then you have the energy savings on top. I'm guessing they didn't want to loose any floor space for insulation, but they will now be paying for those few inches year on year.

[jtrent]

I’ve fitted 16mm pipe on top of 100mm PIR, battened 25mm on top, then infilled with a semi dry screed throughout my house. It’s topped with 18mm OSB and then LVT. We have been through a winter with it and it’s kept us warm in our semi renovated bungalow. 50mm pir insulated plasterboard throughout too. Open loop system with Daikin altherma monoblock 8kw. Spacings are around 130mm, three pipes per joist bay. Curve set at 36c @ -2. Daikin heat pumps have a sort of minimum operating temperature so the curve is fairly shallow.

[bsod]

Looks like an proper engineer designed this system.
Love the thicker plates, proper connection between pipe and alu-plate, narrow distance between piping, and a good size on the pipes.

This is not a cheap system to produce, but in the long run this should allow the heatpump to run very cheap.

[bimblinghill]

Interesting. As one often has just one room that is difficult to heat on a UFH retrofit project, then this might be a good solution for just that room, while we can fit a screed or other less expensive and labour-intensive solution in the rest of the house.

[TonyJewell]

Great video - i always learn new stuff. I have 5 zone small bore uf (nu-heat contraflow) layed in screed. Currently uses a oil boiler with a buffer tank for uf. If only I could find someone like yourself who could do a full analysis of the heat demands and design a system to move to a heat pump while maintaining the existing floor pipework where i

[battlebroker]

The heatpump will run 24/7 because if the r value of the walls, or a lot of on and off I got a similar system but the pipes are covered with a Knauf dry screed system 32mm thick than wooden floor. Works well with 80w /m2 temperature 40 C . Got a 800 litre combi buffer with solar thermal booster. Stores about 40kw hot water at 60C . Enough for 4 to 6 hours . i think the lack of insulation in the walls could be challenging.

[Joe-sym]

what pipe did you use for this project. Don't recognise the blue pipe. Also some manufactures such as henco say the way their pipe is made and amount of aluminium in it gives them a greater heat output over cheaper UFH al pipe. Have you found any difference in pipe quality/output?

[derekgoffin]

I can see the advantage of the straight sections with aluminium heat plates but if there are to be tiles over would not the nonaluminium areas that you had to route specially be better with your other under grout plastic clip system or just fed mid air and then the dry grout system you mentioned for tiles over the aluminium but just filling around the pipes and levelling to the rest. I would have thought that would be quicker to install with better heat transfer than the alternative you showed of fibre board routed without the aluminium heat exchanger?

[bilivino]

Great job. That looks like it’s probably a 1960s Crosswall house.

[juniorplumber]

I am new here on your channel and I like your videos, Professor

[pasqualitractor]

Great videos man. Do you fill your systems with tap water or destiled water?

[singlendhot]

A follow up to determine this board's effectiveness would be helpful! This product has the potential to resolve several incompatibility issues if it runs right.

[ianskeet]

Good idea on keeping the extra rad. A nice way to hit good efficiency on a retrofit job.

[draftydale]

You could have installed marine grade ply in the kitchen with tiles on top instead of the screed board then the output would have been the same as the living. Albeit a little less efficient but still running at 43 flow. The radiator could’ve gone.