Quick Tip: Do's & Don'ts of Using Aluma-Hyde II

Brownells Gun Tech™ Caleb calls it "the most durable spray-on finish you can get in a rattle can." Brownells Aluma-Hyde® II is definitely one of the most economical ways to get a tough, good-looking, long-lasting gun finish. Aluma-Hyde II comes in a traditional spray can, but unlike "rattle can" paints you get at the hardware store like Krylon® and Rust-Oleum®, it requires some special handling to get the best-possible results. Caleb has some tips for us.

DO shake Aluma-Hyde really, REALLY well before spraying. You want the solvents and pigments thoroughly and completely blended. If they aren't, you'll get a streaky, inconsistent finish. When you think you're done shaking the can - shake it MORE!

DON'T spray your work piece from too far away. If the Aluma-Hyde is landing on the work piece with a rough, grainy finish, it is partially drying before it hits the surface. Hold can closer as you spray. You want the whole surface to be wet and shiny, but not so wet it drips!

DO start the stream of spray off the work piece and move the spray across it in a smooth, non-stop motion, going past the work piece before you turn off the spray. Repeat that process to cover the work piece.

DON'T change the spray direction while the spray is hitting the work piece. You'll get too much Aluma-Hyde on that spot and end up with an uneven finish and/or unsightly drips.

DO use a cleanout nozzle when you're done, if the can is not empty. Inside, a pickup tube runs from the nozzle to the bottom of the can. If you don't clean it out after spraying, the Aluma-Hyde in the tube will harden. The next time you go to spray from that can, it'll be clogged and no Aluma-Hyde will come out. Get a Clean Out Nozzle (we sell them on our website), swap it on the can for the original nozzle, and spray a bit. This will clean out the pickup tube. The cleanout nozzles are reusable.

DO turn the can upside down and spray until Aluma-Hyde stops coming out. This is good to do on ALL rattle-can spray finishes and paints.

BONUS TIP: It's called "ALUMA-Hyde" and it works great on aluminum, like AR-15 receivers. But it works just as well on ANY metal.

Hang on! A complete "How To Apply Spray-On Finishes To Your Gun" video series is coming.

[mikebillman]

Sounds like a clean out nozzle should be included with every can.

[jeremyb]

I painted a 10.5” 300 Blackout with the FDE 3 or 4 years ago. It still looks great. Important to prep the pieces well. I washed and degreased them and followed the directions and it looks perfect.

[TheRange-wu]

I like this product so much, I did the exterior of my home with it. I used 18, 000 cans of each color and it took me 35 years to finish the house. It's the coolest looking CAMO house in the area.

[scrubadiver]

Can't go to work today. Too drunk, I watched a Brownells video and followed instructions.

[projectxero]

I learned that upside-down trick in art college... it's true, and a must for any spray paint your only partially using on one session.

[thereloadingcraft]

Looking forward to the spray on coatings series!

[hobbyking]

This is a great product, I did buy additional spray and cleanout nozzles, that made a huge difference.

[charlesgarner]

The man is correct "READ THE CAN". How I use the coating: I sit the can in "hot water", 15 - 20 mins. I then shake and shake and shake and shake some more, between the warm coating and alot of shaking the product is ready to spray. The parts are washed in lacquer thinner, then glass beaded, then washed again in lacque thinner . Once the parts are clean use clean latex gloves to handle the parts. Hang the parts to coat and coat all surfaces at the same time. Let them hang for several days before you handle them. This is the way I do it and it works everytime!

[kennebearsarms]

Good timing on this! Its getting warmer in MN and I've only tested this paint on goat guns now I can try it on the real thing!

[JimYeats]

The sprayable rattle can version of Duracoat seems pretty decent as well. Used that the other day with good success. I think regardless of who you go with, prep adequately, read the instructions, and follow basic painting techniques.

[scott]

I’ve used it once. Did several 20 round USGI mags. Came out great. But I’m also looking forward to all the wear marks!!!!

[ChristianGrest]

Thanks for sharing this info Caleb! You know I've been an Aluma-Hyde fan for some time and have done a number of projects with this stuff. Having those clean out nozzles is so handy. Shaking, shaking, shaking the can(that's 3 shots...need another) shake the can again. Hopefully in your series you can discuss a little bit about using multiple colors/layers. This get pretty tricky in my opinion as Aluma-Hyde seems to lay on fairly thick.

Anyways, thanks again for sharing your tips! Looking forward to more Aluma-hyde videos!

[jed-henrywitkowski]

You're post dos and dont's for your product are great for painting with typical rattle can paint as well!

[LameWolff]

Good advise Caleb. For anyone thinking about using it Aluma-Hyde does a really good job if you follow the instructions and take your time. Also after allowing it to dry thoroughly it seems to be a very durable finish. The clear coat is good to finish it off with adding a layer between the paint job and the world of "crap that hurt".

[toytowninc]

Good info, the biggest complaint that I have seen is the Color of the cap being drastically different than the actual product.

[josh]

Been wanting to buy some Aluma Hyde in various colors but waiting until they finish the how to series. They should also include the cleaning nozzle with every can.

[flea-khom]

I have been using Aluma-Hyde ever since it came out. I found it to be much better than anything out there. Being an epoxy based paint it cuts down on the problems with rust really well. You must clean the surface extra well. As you hang the peace your painting make sure you check the very bottom ends of your work. Old paint, rust and crud will collect at the bottom, so respray your work with cleaner, I use at least twice . The last thing I spray the surface with is alcohol at lease 87% why because anything less contains water. Just like when using it to clean a rifle barrel always use 87% or better. I also depending on the surface, heat my work. Painting AR's I preheat my oven to 250 for 15 minutes and the metal for 30 minutes then I hang it over night. I use it on steal 1911's first I clean them extra good then paint than place it in a preheated oven at 300 degree's for 30 minutes. My Springfield Armory TRP pistol is stainless steal. I painted it Black Aluma_ Hyde II over 10 years ago, thus far I've drawn it from a kydex holster over 1K's time and twice that much from my leather holster. So far no wear at all and the same kinda use with my AR's. Can't say enough about Aluma- Hyde II. Y'all take, flea

[toejam]

Warming the cans in very warm water aids in mixing it up, while shaking. Always check the amount of distance to surface, printed on the can and test spray it on cardboard or heavy paper first.

[robotbuster]

AlumaHyde ROCKS! I use up the rest of the can on farm implements, shovels, axes, bbq pit touch ups, etc. Works on motorcycle rims, and aluminum propellers,
ProTip: Keep extra spraying nozzles ready to go in a small container of acetone. I use my compressor air gun and blow out the nozzles after a soak in acetone

[tireballastserviceofflorid]

This is a really good paint. It's not as good as Gun Kote or Cerakote, but for essentially rattle can it rocks. I have used it several times mainly on trigger guards and it holds up very well. It would make a first rate cammo for a gun.