7 Reasons Japanese Jeans Are So Expensive

What kind of lunatic spends hundreds of dollars on jeans from *Japan* when they could go to Kohl's and buy some off the rack for thirty bucks? Brother, you've come to the right place because Japan offers the peak, the apex, the zenith of that most humble of pants, the jeans. They're the most common trouser on Earth, don't you want to wear its best possible version? Here's why they're worth paying attention to.

00:00 Why is Japanese denim so expensive?


00:53 1. The Weaving
03:08 2. The Dyeing
04:28 3. The Weight
05:38 4. The Raw
07:40 5. The Hardware and Details
08:30 6. The Vintage Styles
10:01 7. The Exclusivity
11:12 The downsides of denim from Japan

13:15 Wrapping up

#japanesedenim #selvedgedenim #rawdenim

[NakedandFamousDenim]

Great video, lots of useful information here. I wanted to add some points that I thought would be useful, there was some misconceptions that I thought needed clearing up. I hope you find these points informative and If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. - Bahzad


1. The Weaving – It is true that shuttle looms are old, but some may not be as old as you think. Shuttle looms were still being made in Japan in the 1980’s.

Colored threads are not necessary to finish the selvedge edge, originally the selvedge ID was used by mills to identify which roll of fabric belonged to which company. Now a days with modern inventory management that isn’t necessary. The ID now is basically emblematic of the fact that this fabric was woven on a shuttle loom, and color choice (or lack of color choice) is simply ornamental.

Loom chatter does add to the texture of the denim but not in the way you described. The machines chattering (ratting around) gives the fabric a uneven weave, when you look at the inside of your jeans you’ll notice the twill lines are kind of janky. Slub, as in the 3d texture of the denim comes from the yarn itself. Slub yarns are yarns spun at different speeds as to create a yarn that is tight and smooth in some sections and loose a thick in others. So when you weave with this type of yarn will get a bumpy texture (because the yarns themselves are bumpy).


2. Dying - You said that many Japanese denim houses (I’m assuming you mean brands) have their own proprietary dye techniques, this is not true at all. No brand does their own dying, dying in Japan is handled by a handful of companies, and only 1 Japanese denim supplier can do everything form yarn spinning, dying, and weaving. Many smaller mills can do weaving but rely on other companies to do the dying and yarn spinning for them. Brands can design fabrics with a mill, but the physical act of dying is completely controlled by the mill, not the brand.

While hand dying does exist in Japan it is important to remember that this is incredibly rare, we’re talking less than 0.1% of denim fabric made in Japan is made this way.

Natural indigo dyes are rarely used in rope dying, mainly because the dye itself contains impurities and the natural nature of the dye means it is difficult to control the color from one dye lot to the next. Rope dying is what creates the high contrast fades that you described, and rope dying most often is done with pure indigo (chemically derived indigo). Most Japanese denim is made with pure indigo.


3. Weight - While variety of weights is something Japanese denim producers are good at, weight alone is not a major contributing factor to cost. Only when you get into extreme territory like 32oz or 40oz when you are basically on the fringes of what is possible. Though depending on the fabric there can be more wastage on the roll (fabric defects) but that’s very fabric dependent, some fabrics are made with little to no issue, while new developments may take some time for the mill to figure out how to make with fewer issues. The cost sewing for an extreme weight denim is higher no question about that, but anything under 17oz typically costs about the same as making an 11oz jean. Even when you make an 18 – 22oz jean the cost difference isn’t dramatic.


4. The Raw – Not putting fabrics though finishing processes like sanforization makes a fabric less expensive. But I think you are confusing how jeans become soft and wearable with sanforization. Sanfoirzation is a mechanical shrinking process where the raw denim fabric is essentially heated and pressed though a set of hot rollers (giant ones) this compresses the fabric removing the shrinkage. The resulting fabric is still rigid. What makes a jean soft and comfortable are washing processes that are done after the jeans are cut and sewn. Weather that be a rinse wash where the jeans are basically put in a giant industrial washing machine, or processed further with sanding, chemicals, bleach etc. to make the jeans look old and faded. It’s these costs that will make a jean more expensive.


5. Hardware - Hardware can add to the cost, but it is only the very specialized stuff that does. Getting custom buttons and rivets is as simple as ordering them, the per unit cost of each piece is barely more expensive then using generic hardware. The issue is the minimum, where companies like YKK (which pretty much everybody uses) require you to order quite a lot. But if you are a denim brand that should not be an issue since you are going to be using it. There are specialty hardware makers out there, if you want a 100% iron button that is going to come from a smaller specialized manufacturer and cost significantly more. But there are not very many companies that do that. Leather patches can be expensive depending on the type of leather used and the amount (scale certainly plays a factor here too).


6. Vintage styles - I would argue that none of what is produced as repros are not period perfect replicas, mostly because the jeans are not made in the USA, nor are they made with American fabric, they are not even made on the same machines. Japan did not import old American looms, that is a complete and total myth that many seem to believe. Japan made their own looms. I would categories these are imitations (even down to copying other brands labels and logos) be it very well made imitations. At the same time the brands that are often being imitated are making repro product, so if you want the real thing….


7. Exclusivity – This is pretty much what it all boils down to. Small brands, small lots, small production, small scale. Japanese raw denim is a niche market where very specialized jeans are made for a very specialized market. Incredible stuff is made in this realm, but a lot of the cost comes from the fact that it’s small batch. Other major contributing factors is shipping and tariffs. When you are buying these products outside of Japan, retailers need to import these goods. Shipping costs and tariffs really add to the cost. Some companies work with distributors which need to make their cut as well. Easily a 25 – 33% of the price of a jean can be increased by these factors adding no value to the jean at all.

[ericservaes]

Another reason why japanese denim is expensive is because Japan is a 1st world country where workers are paid decent wages and social security. Unlike low wages countries in Asia where most mass production clothing is being produced.

[benniebenzak]

Great video and introduction to people unaware of Japanese selvedge denim!

While most of the info is spot-on, point 4 (the Raw) is not really a reason why these jeans are more expensive. First of all, sanforization is a process done on the fabric by the mill, before it's being put on rolls. The only difference between sanforized and unsanforized denim is this exact process. This has nothing to do with 'pre-washed' jeans, which you mentioned in the video too, because a pre-wash is a way of aging the ready-made jeans in an industrial laundry by washing, distressing and whatever you can do to create an aged look. In fact, a pre-wash would make a pair of jeans actually more expensive compared to unwashed or raw denim jeans. Which takes me to my next point: the term raw denim means unwashed denim, as in, how the fabric came off the roll. Since sanforization has been done already before the fabric's being put on rolls, you can have both unsanforized and sanforized denim classify as raw denim. Raw denim simply means that the jeans have not been washed or distressed after they're cut and sewn into a pair of jeans. We (BENZAK) use a lot of Japanese selvedge denim, but it's all sanforized and still fully classify as raw.

Another thing that's important to mention about the price of the brands you mention, is that they are in fact fully produced in Japan, as opposed to brands exporting Japanese denim to low income countries and manufacture the jeans over there. Minimum wage in Japan is similar to that of the US and many European countries, making the manufacturing process more expensive too. You're absolutely right about lots of these factories being family-owned with few employees and low quantity output, which makes it even more expensive. We actually do both, produce in Japan and export fabric to Portugal, to make our jeans; they have a different price point for the above mentioned reason (although Portugal is not a low income country, its minimum wage is still below that of Japan).

[TheIronSnail]

A LOVELY VID! Fun fact the pink selvedge line is homage to Levi’s original red selvedge line fading to a pink hue

[dmark]

I live in Tokyo and these jeans can be found in selected shops, but concentrated in the Harajuku area. To actually see where most of them are made would require a trip to Okayama, which is several hours away by bullet train. The first "expensive" jeans I bought were Spellbound, which wasn't mentioned here but is a very comfortable wearable brand. For me, I would buy expensive jeans only if there is something unique about them, so I wouldn't really buy the remake styles. The only brand in this video I actually recognized was D'artisan, but I can't buy jeans decorated with cartoons of pigs all over them! Especially at that price. I do have a pig-less D'artisan shirt I like, though. I'm old enough to remember when ALL jeans/denim items were bought "cardboard" style and button-up (no zippers). It was always a long process of breaking them in; the buttoning could be a bitch at first with the stiff material. And by the time they were totally broken in, you were getting knee-holes, lol.

[sebastianshaw]

This video might be the best video not only introducing Japanese Selvedge but also the selvedge jeans as a niche. Great job.

[blackbearddmh]

I have 3 pairs of Oni, 1 SDA, and 1 Momotaro. I really love the these type of denim. I plan to get a pair from every known brand.

[calebgasca]

Bought a pair of PBJ Snow denim and I’ve only gone 2 days in the since the beginning of the year without them. I could never go back!

[TheSoulsandRevive]

Great video, very informative points! I concur that most 'handmade/traditional' Japanese jeans are expensive due to the outstanding workmanship and materials, but you got to know 'WHEN' and 'WHERE' to go to get them cheaper. I've seen the most expensive in Okayama Denim St (Kojima) and the cheapest in Tokyo (Around $170 AUD ). Where I managed to get each a pair of LEE (American riders 102), Kojima Genes and Japan Blue Jeans. The cheapest is online at 'RAKUTEN' during end of year time sale. Cheers!

[aravindvinayakan]

First boots, now denim. My wallet hates me.

[jezztech]

Been wearing blue & Negros denim jeans on and off all my life, but had to stop wearing them circa 10 years ago due to major surgery on right leg, ( chafing of scar tissue doctors orders), prior to that, I had warn them all, Levi, Wrangler, Brutus, Lee Cooper, Easy, Falmer, Farrer ET AL, but my Jeans were always LEE, the quality and style and fit were perfect. So back to present day, dipped my toe into the jeans wearing water and bought 3 pairs in three different shades of " life and glory " jeans, brand new for £12 each = £36, made in China but quality, colour and fit are superb, i say this because am well north 55 and it sparked my interest dropping on your show. Did not realize Japan made jeans! Good show man !!

[treygreenleaf]

How is this channel not at 100k+ subs?! Quality video as always Nick

[michaelbedford]

This is very much a status thing, only really appreciated by other fans.
As someone who worked all their life in the textile industry (including sanforizing technology) you would have to be out of your mind to spend hundreds of dollars on jeans that havn't been pre-shrunk without trying them on. Even then you have to know how to control the amount of shrinkage after you buy them.
Just leaving them in the bath will give the minumum shrinkage. Machine washing and tumble drying gives the most, because it is the tumbling action that causes the maximum 'fibre migration'.
The selvedge thing is interesting but you can produce denim of similar quality on wide high speed looms at a fraction of the cost if you don't mind 'cropped selvedges'.
The most important thing really is the quality of yarn for the warp and weft, and no mention is made of that.

[harrythedemigod]

A note on the shrink-to-fit nature of jeans and soaking them in water. I'd say only do it if you really want to speed up the process. If you want some truly great fitting jeans I'd recommend just wearing them for months and months without washing, and maybe get caught in the rain once or twice. Is it harder? Yes, but makes for super controlled shrinkage that will fit your body and keep the fades.

[dwtt]

@8:15. Interesting thing in those rivets on the pockets. 1)Yes, the 4 characters spell out samurai in katakana. Top is sa, bottom is mu, right is ra, left is i. 2) Also the rivet is in the shape of a circle with a square in the middle. That is the shape of old Japanese coins from the samurai era. That’s pretty cool.

[nicholasmullins]

Those oxblood Jack boots by Taft that you wore around the beginning pulled off that outfit nicely my guy 👍🏽 straight 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥.

[sneaky.vampire]

Idk why I'm watching this when I already own a handful of japanese selvedge jeans already.

[pwprochazka]

Love my Momotaro jeans. And I'm an old guy in my 50's that lives in a mountain ski town. You don't have to be a city living hipster to love these jeans.

[russellalfonso]

the jeans by Levi's I wore in the 1960s when I was a teenager, were affordable even for a kid in high school.

[joshuataylor]

As always Nick, another fantastically well made and information packed video! Thanks for all the work you do to ensure great quality and accuracy in your reviews!
Edit: I've seen nearly all of your reviews and comparison videos about boots. Would it be possible for you to do one comparing Red Wing with some of the pricier boot makers? It seems that Red Wing is sort of the middle-ground in standings. It would be interesting to see what you would say the pros & cons are for purchasing either.
Personally I've been a Red Wing fan for many years, but have recently been considering a few different brands or possibly a custom pair of boots. Hopefully many of your fans and yourself agree with this idea. Thanks for your time and consideration!