4 Years Later - Whole House Water Filters Update

List of all the materials & tools i bought: ($400 total)
Water Filters:

PEX Pipe Material & Tools:

This video is going over the whole house water filter system i installed 4 years ago. Pointing out the good and the bad - what worked and what i would change.

Using PEX pipe worked great. Super happy with that. Easy to install - zero leaks.
The 2 types of water filters i installed are also great.
The pressure gauges i would not do in the future. Not needed and i never use.

Disclosure Note: The above links are Amazon Affiliate links. There is NO additional cost to you, however I get paid a small percentage from Amazon if you purchase after clicking on the link.

[DaveWirth]

List of all the materials & tools i bought: ($400 total)
Water Filters:

PEX Pipe Material & Tools:

[chuckburton]

I am a retired water system installer/operator with 30 years experience working on small systems for the National Park Service. Most people are not as fastidious as you are about monitoring their water systems. I’d like to compliment you on the system that you designed and installed yourself, and for sharing your experience with others through your video. I have a couple of comments for your consideration:

You installed clear sumps on your system which allows a quick visual assessment of the filter media. Much nicer than the solid color units that give the system operator no clue about what’s going on inside. Even so, a filter that looks dirty on the outside may still be functioning well and not be clogged to the point where it needs to be cleaned or replaced. The two gauges (one upstream of the filter set, and one downstream) are the most reliable way to assess the efficiency and throughput of your system.

You have four sets of filter media that the water is passing through. Even with a full set of brand new filter media, when water is flowing through the system, you should be seeing 2 to 3 psi higher pressure on the upstream gauge, than the pressure shown on the downstream gauge. If you are seeing not that differential pressure between the upstream and downstream gauges, there is a problem. Given the amount of iron in your water, it is highly likely that your upstream gauge has become fouled with sediment. Other causes could be damaged/improperly seated filter cartridges, or a leak in that bypass value you have there between the incoming and outgoing water lines. These pressure gauges, when operating properly, give a very good indication of the true condition of the filter media. When the pressure differential
hits 5 or 6 psi, it's time to check and clean the filters or replace them if they are not the cleanable type.

The iron filter system you have constructed is excellent for filtering out "ferric" (oxidized) iron. The other type of iron in water that may have to be addressed is "ferrous" (clear water) iron. This is iron that exists in a liquid state. It can pass right through your filter media and cause you problems at the point-of-use. When ferrous iron is present, it will oxidize when exposed to air. A great place to check for this problem without expensive water testing, is to inspect your toilet tank. If you have a conventional toilet tank, the incoming water is exposed to air when it is sprayed into the tank during refill. If you see a thin film of red or blackish oxide on the inside walls of the toilet tank, that is the result of ferrous iron being converted to ferric iron, due to exposure to the air.

If you have ferric iron in your water and are pumping directly from a water well into your system, it is highly likely that ferrous iron is also present in your water. If you pump to a storage tank first, allow the water to remain in detention for 30 minutes or so, then pump from the storage tank to your house plumbing, the oxidation will usually occur in the storage tank, rather than your toilet tank. There are also other filtration systems designed to remove ferrous iron from your water.

[Jinkins]

WOW!!! Thank you so much for the 4-year update video. I don't think I have ever seen anyone do an update video on projects that I am researching. Much appreciated. I was not planning on installing a pressure gauge but I will be installing at least one now. I figured it would be a good way to see if I have any leaks that I cannot see downstream.

[bondarenkodf]

Wonderful job!
To observe a pressure difference, you need to install an output valve after the second gauge, which can release water into a bucket or the sewage system. Simply open it and monitor the pressure difference as water flows. By relying on pressure difference rather than a fixed interval for changing filters, you may have the opportunity to save some money.

[GeeScottJay]

Thank you for making a concise, clear, structured video, without any filler or unnecessary time wasting. That was exactly the right length, without missing or extra info. Great work.

[pnorton]

Definitely use pressure gauges. You just need to know when to read them. That is the absolute best way to know when you need to change your filters. You should also notice a difference in the pressure when you're showering or using water in your house.

[Freely_Accepted]

I work in Water Filtration. Installing whole home filters, reverse osmosis. Treating everything from city water to well water. Industrial and residential.

Sir, you did an excellent job. Very clean fits.

Pressure gauges will let you know if a filter is clogged, but since you use housings that you can see. And you check on your stuff (you would not believe how many people do not do that). You did a great job explaining the use purpose, and the frequency of servicing.
Good video!
Cheers!

[Halabalooza]

I live in Russia and use 3 step filter: 5micron, 0.8 micron and 0.1 micron. All they cost about 60$. Change them once a year or after 10 months

[jamesortolano]

As someone who has put in quite a few filter systems, I'd say this is a great job !
You should show people the bi-pass you put in, or discuss how you work it nd why .
I've put in magnetic , nd ultra violet piping as well.
What ever you want to pay for .
I still use a 3 stage omni system for my home . Filters go by different names now .
Much appreciation
For your time, editing, nd posts

[boydie]

I used your original video to install the same exact system in my house. I've been using it for 3 years now and no problems at all. You designed a great system - thank you!

[kasha]

I can appreciate everything you've done here and especially the update. Perfect for a home lived in year round. ❤

[tealkerberus]

The only issue with the pressure gauges is that you do need to be looking at them while something is using water. Washing machine, dishwasher, or running a bath all take a fair amount of water flow. It's kind of obvious that when no water is being used, the pressure on the downstream side of the filters will creep up to equalise with the pressure on the upstream side.

[bd]

thanks for putting this together. It was super helpful. One addition you could consider is adding a reverse loop to your spindown filters. That would let you backflush into the clear hose and probably reduce the interval you need to take the screens out and clean completely.

[tshaw]

So impressive! I love the thought that you put into every detail of this system!! Storage, whiteboard, notes, everything!! You are amazing 🤩

[hardymichael]

Water 4 Filter system and UV light water filter good idea

[brentjohnson]

Very nice update. I am on a pump in Texas and I have terrible sediment issues. The filters I have tried in the past have reduced our pressure from 60psi to almost a dribble in the shower (not sure on psi at the house). I am interested in the spin down filters for removing some of that before I filter it - I like how you put this in. I am considering going with pet also as you did. All of my previous pipe out in the pump house have been PVC. That froze a couple of years ago when we had rolling blackouts here in Texas. It was even -6F! I grew up in Northern Minnesota so I have seen cold weather in the past, but we never had the power go out in a blizzard like that. Haha. Thanks for your videos. I have added your list to a Amazon list for me as I consider what to do. I am getting the water tested again to see a before and after. Along with this whole house filter I plan on putting a under the cabinet filter in the kitchen. Thanks again for your videos. They have been instructive and give me ideas on what to do.

[geoh]

I put an iron and magnesium big blue filter in and it helps a good bit

[PRR]

This is similar to what I put in 9 years ago for iron-rich well water. One personal choice: I took a tap after the spindown and before the pleated filters for the outside faucets--- a little dirt won't hurt outside waters but I was getting teeny gravel which jammed the faucets. This also simplifies the winter shut-down: I can close that side-tap and drain the outside faucets with less running around. More than justifies the extra 40' of PEX to have the outside faucets on dedicated lines.

[keithsams]

i have the culligan filters too..and they have been great..i love them..but a couple days ago one of the tanks got a fracture in it and started seeping water...culligan does not offer parts for these..and of course the by-pass on the filter is stuck..and i didnt plumb in a by-pass...so i ordered a new filter and the plan is to just use the tank from the new filter when it gets here and put it on the old head...but if i have to change out anything i will replumb and build a by-pass, so i can work on these things and still have water...also, it would be a good idea to have unions on both sides of the filters to take them compleatly out of the system if need be...to replace the filter housings them selves...just thoughts im learning now that i have done it..and re-thinking the plan

[lex]

Thank you for this update. I am in the process of installing a new whole house water filtration system and I'm following your install video to a T. I am only installing the culligan filters, no ispring. Im skipping the pressure gauges now after watching this video.