Free heating fuel but it's illegal - £120 8kw Diesel parking heater review from VEVOR

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*Use VVPROMO to get 5% OFF on VEVOR*
*Recommended Diesel heater full kit*

*Original Vevor machine*

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Power supply 240v - 12v 300w

glow plug burner mesh:

Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.

In this episode we review the 12V 8KW Diesel Air Heater For RV Trucks (With Blue LCD Display) by VEVOR, also known as a parking heater or multi fuel oil heater. These are ideal for tiny houses, van life and workshops. We will explore how efficient these are to run and the use of free fuels such as biofuel and waste oil.

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[joshuadelisle]

!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!
I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I've conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I've also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see tested in the future videos.


Here are some links:
The Diesel heater I recomend getting:
Diesel heater featured:

Additional affiliate links:
Power supply 240v - 12v 300w

glow plug burner mesh:


Thank you

Cheers J

[Pay-No-Mind]

Free....AND are two of my favourite things!, you have my attention good sir.

[bigduphusaj]

I fitted these on boats and lorries for years, I'm a boat builder now so still deal with them and if set up correctly they last forever👍
First thing mate you need to swap that exhaust around so its not all exiting facing directly down as you generate extra heat in the underplate and if left on constantly for days the burner will be running maybe 5deg over what it should and using more fuel and the bend you cant have it so water and unburnt diesel stores in it or it will have start-up issues. Route the exhaust slightly downwards all the way from the unit so have it come out and down slightly then where it goes outside put your 90 bend sideways and facing downwards then have the exhaust aimed out at a slight dangle downwards so no water or unburnt fuel can store up anywhere on the pipe.
Secondly you should fit the heat hose to the front as it brings the heat away from the burner nozzle and in turn saves fuel as its then burning at a perfect 163-167deg and 14:1 on the fuel.
The best modification you can make for performance is to fit rigid type fuel lines like you get on the boats. They do cheap copy kits that the fuel line is nearly rigid and fits into rubber fuel hose and is clamped together. These ensure the fueling is absolutely accurate as there is no flex or expanding action happening when the pump is on its press stroke, the burner itself will be quieter and the fuel pump will last a lot longer with rigid type fuel hose🙏
What never to do > fit filters over the intake. Put too many bends in the exhaust or burner intake. Extend the wiring without doing the maths relating to wire resistance and if possible always use it on a 12v or 24v DC as mains power can sometimes have power cuts or large spikes that flip breakers... if that happens your heater is toast as it shuts down hard with no shut down sequence, this burns the internal pcb and internal wiring. The genuine ones can take about 5-6 hard shut downs before you need to replace certain parts of the electrics. Also do some homework at what height and angle the pump likes to be at as these all in ones are known for bad fuel lines and pumps facing the wrong direction. To quieten the pump down you can get the pink rubber cover thing for it and mount it so it's not touching anything. Never buy the garbage large thin tanks they all leak and the connector is a nightmare to snug up properly. If using a 5 gallon drum be sure to fit the blue lid on your current tank to it as it needs to breathe.

[allanweseman]

I am an old Volkswagen mechanic who in the '70s worked on many Eberspacher gasoline heaters factory installed into all Volkswagen Type 4 vehicles. They were in every Type 4 and the early 73 Thing vehicles. This design looks a great deal like what they made with a pulse fuel pump that was timed to the ventilating speed. Their units had both a spark and glow plug for intitial ignition. They ran on gasoline, not diesel. Your high power consumption on startup is from the glow plug.

[RockG.o.d]

all winter in my high rise flat, it costs enough that I could buy one of those within a month, and see the benefit within that month. summer would be more expensive with the air con, but that would be the problem for the 1 week of summer.

[moffat]

This is the first of your videos I’ve ever seen, and I stumbled across it completely randomly (the previous video I watched before this popped up, was about the Alaskan oil pipeline. Lol)
Your level of interest in the product, your explanations, the information you provide, you pulling it apart to see what’s inside it, etc. has immediately earned you a sub. 👍🏻

[bobbydamig]

Thanks! I was absolutely amazed with this tutorial!!. I myself being a welder/fabrication teacher. I am currently teaching my children how important or is to have imagination to be a welder.. I found your tutorial amazing and I could not help but support a fellow welder/fabricator.. I wish you nothing but success, wealth and happiness in the future, you are an inspiration to many who are able to see what your doing and the fact that you are potentially helping those who do not have the money to heat their homes in the winter. God Bless you!

[blucheer]

I lived in Alaska few years ago these little “Japanese stoves” we called them, were used everywhere and in everything cabins, boats, work shops, man caves… toyo stoves… even houses. great channel!

[pathfindermanscouts]

One of the most incredible videos I’ve ever seen. You knock this puppy out of the park. I purchased one of these and was looking to gain more information. You definitely hit most everything needed. Excellent job my friend.

[kst]

I'm in the States & use a diesel heater to heat my workshop. I found that it runs on diesel, kerosene, and Type A Jet fuel but I haven't tried biofuel yet. Kerosene is expensive here and diesel is $4.89 a gallon so I go to a nearby small airfield and buy 10 gallons of Type A Jet fuel for only $3.80 a gallon. The only hitch is that the nozzle of an aircraft self-serve pump won't fit into a standard fuel jug opening so I had to buy two 5 gallon wide-mouth fuel jugs which have a large enough opening. A company named U-Jug makes them. In short, burning Type A in these heaters is a lot less expensive than using diesel fuel or kerosene. I haven't bothered to measure it but I think I get a longer burn on a gallon of Type A than I do on diesel fuel.

[epajarjestelmainsinoori]

Couple of suggestions from cold wintery Finland: Calculate the price comparison calculations via the thermal energy of diesel also. 350ml an hour is not 8kW - even at 100% effienciency. More like half of it. Also you have losses (exhaust, which you could utilize. Also consider taking air to burn from outside as now you are drawing cold air into the room for the unit to burn (this depends on your needs to ventilate but especially true if you have a ventilation system with heat re-capturing (heat exchanger between the hot-out and cold-in, like we have in the cold countries). Last thing is to insulate that gap under the sheet metal with some fire proof rock/glass wool. Now you have an unisulated spot there.... Or you could run the exhaust inside a long vent tube in and have your fresh air already preheated.

[starbase]

I have one in my workshop (converted garage) it's away from the house so solar powered, using recycle laptop batteries. After 20 minutes it's very toasty, I picked the bare bones one and got it for under £50. They are a great bit of kit. Great video, keep them comming.

[slagletoby]

I purchased this unit in 2024 and it works good. As for commissioning, I just connected the intake/exhaust, 12V, added fuel, and then powered on and went full blast for 48 hours. No problems, and it’s very efficient.

[eric]

I absolutely love my diesel heater. We spent a lot of time in the woods camping and it's opened up the winter season so we could be really comfortable without having to worry about propane or anything else

[patrickhowden]

Great vid. Here's a tip;
If you made a longer exhaust pipe and had most of this pipe on the inside of your workshop before exiting, you'd get even more heat inside.

[Krb-dn]

The air intake hose is there to go outside of the building so that the air that you burn is not the heated air from inside causing a draft of cold air to come into the building to replace it. That burner uses a lot of air so in a small shop like yours, the cold air coming in will be quite noticeable. The heater I had came with a wall vent that the exhaust went out of the building though a metal tube that was surrounded by another tube. The exhaust went out the center tube and the air for the burner came into the building through outer tube preheating the combustion air and keeping the wall from getting heated by the exhaust.

[michaelbarton]

A cheap option for a mains 12V PSU is an old X-Box psu "brick".
They output a solid 12V at a power of 135W (higher powers available for the older ones).
You just need to remove the end connector & combine the individual wires into +ve and -ve groups and connect the 2 switch wires together so it's always on.

[davidahiwaaynet]

Awesome. Heartbreaking about people freezing over Christmas in UK.
I hope that y'all are able to keep warm this winter.
I expect you should import and save these heaters while you can before they "become unavailable" in your country.

[realulli]

If you build a setup that will cool the exhaust gas to below 100C, you'll get another boost in efficiency, since you're burning hydrocarbons. Part of the exhaust will be steam. If you make that condense out, you get all the energy from turning water into steam back. Watch out: the other exhaust main component is CO2, which forms a minor acid with water. You'll need stainless steel or ceramic piping for the exhaust, otherwise it will corrode really quickly.

[pcno]

15:35 If the exhaust is running (or at least peaking) at 240 C, that's a fair amount of heat going out the window. Maybe a secondary heat exchanger, which could be as simple as a cast iron radiator or just a long metal pipe, would reclaim that heat and increase the heat output while cutting fuel costs.