Men's Dress Shirt Styles - How To Choose the Perfect Collar, Placket, Cuff & Fit

Learn more in our written Dress Shirt Style Guide here:

#notsponsored #shirtsyles #mensdressshirts

You can check out the accessories I'm wearing here:

00:00 Introduction

With the recent popularity of made to measure shirts and custom shirts online and offline, you get lots of options. Now that can be a blessing or a curse, depending on what you need and what you don't.

Fit
00:45 Classic Fit
The primary goal of the classic fit is comfort so you'll have more space in the chest, you'll have wider sleeves. Overall, it's a roomier cut with excess fabric. The idea is that it gives you mobility.

01:14 Slim Fit
Basically, everything on the shirt is slimmed down. The torso is slimmed down sometimes with the use of darts in the back. The chest is smaller, the shoulder width is smaller, and oftentimes, also the sleeves are much slimmer.

01:51 Modern Fit / Contemporary Fit
This is somewhere between the classic fit and the slim fit. It usually features a slightly tapered silhouette, sometimes has darts, sometimes not. It is an attractive look but it doesn't compromise comfort and mobility.

02:15 Super Skinny Fit
This just means that everything is tight. The problem is that it's so tight that you easily get wrinkles all over the place.

02:36Placket

Traditional front placket which is an additional piece of fabric strip that is sewn onto the top. It creates great symmetry, it's therefore very popular for a classic shirt.

03:03 French placket. Unlike the American placket, it's simply a flat, smooth edge that's folded over and sewn.

3/4 placket which means the placket doesn't go all the way down and it's more like a polo shirt, just very deep.

03:42 Fly front placket. It's called that way because the buttons are hidden with an additional piece of fabric and personally, I don't like it at all.

04:14 Collar

04:48 Spread Collar. It has a certain spread and it's used for dress shirts and casual shirts alike. It works with or without a tie and it's quite versatile.

05:15 Button-down collar. It's particularly popular for the oxford cloth button-down collar shirt.

05:45 Under button-down collars. There's simply a button placed underneath the collar so it's invisible.

06:03 Classic collar. Not too spread, tips are not too long but not too short.

06:23 Smaller collars have become very popular but most of the time, they're not very flattering especially if you wear a tie or a bow tie, it simply looks like a child collar.

06:47 Detachable wing collar. For evening wear such as white tie tailcoat and tuxedo, men would traditionally wear this one.

07:41 Mao collar. A short, stand-up collar. It's very easy to tailor and it's sometimes worn in combination with the Nehru jacket.

08:07 Club collar. It has rounded ends so you're not going to have a collar tip but they're just rounded.

08:34 Medium spread collar. It's basically not classic but not too spread. It's kind of in-between.

09:16 Extreme cutaway collar. It's just cut away so far, you cannot really wear neckwear that looks flattering.

09:45 Shirt Cuff

09:47 -French cuffs or double cuffs.
10:05 -James Bond cuff
10:16 - straight-cut cuffs, or slightly angled ones, or rounded ones

10:34 Hem
Most traditional shirts have a hem that is longer in the front and at the back and cut up in the middle so you don't have excess bunching of fabric.

10:59 Yoke
Traditionally, you can find a so-called split yoke in the back which originally was there to compensate for sloping shoulders.

11:21 Pleats
In terms of pleats, traditional shirts oftentimes feature a center pleat down the middle. It's like a box pleat that gives you more room.

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Gentleman's Gazette

[seewn]

Raphael, I know you own your own business, and are obviously extremely busy. But I would love to see more videos like this, breaking down these sorts of things for all the general suiting items. Your knowledge of the history and function is always fascinating.

Keen to see more.
Regards,

[nathanhunt]

I bought a black suit for my grandfather's funeral a while back. And I probably should have just gotten a dark navy or dark grey suit, but that's the only one I have for now. This has been really useful to help me step up my dress clothes game until I buy a navy suit.

Going to see what kinds of patterns and things I should look for in your other videos.

Thanks!

[duckymcscrooge]

I love these videos. More often than not, I find I've been doing it right, just instinctually...but it's good to have a real expert open up more ideas and braven us fashion aspiring guys to try new things without taking the risk of looking stupid...lol

[GNZOU]

I'm very slim, so slim fit shirts look great on me, I've seen some people wearing slim fit without the right build and it just looks comically tight on them.

[joshuakiser]

Excellent video. I never thought I'd become someone who would take actual interest in all the details that go into shirts or even clothing in general. But what I've learned from your videos and articles have served me very well. I suppose since I never used to pay *any* attention to such details, it really amazes me when I learn about all these things that can go into a shirt. Thanks for being such a quality resource.

[MrKikopr]

Real serious advice on traditional and classic gentlemen fashion. Rather than others who just promote their sponsors with no content.

[TuLoSabe]

The attachable collar for the tuxedo looks so much better

[guyslifehacks]

I love this channels old style music and presentation. Great job with this Raphael.

[davejohnson]

I want to thank you for taking to patience and time to do this, a value of information, thanks again

[marshallemmet]

I actually like my shirt to hang over the side a bit, so classic fit for me all the way!

[VolvoGuy]

Very complete and detailed account of shirts for those of us that need help making the right choices. :)
Great video thank you!

[nelfarios]

How you only have 84, 000 subs is beyond me... So detailed, wow!

[Harrypotterxx]

My favorite collars styles are the: semi-spread, button-down collar, pinhole collar (club, pointed, anything), tab, and Nehru (basically a Mao / Mandarin collar that's taller).

[DavidLLambertmobile]

Button downs & the "contrasting" collar(white collar, blue or grey shirt) are good. I wore contrasting collars a lot in the early 1990s. 👔. It was popular with TV news anchors, Wall St types..

[xenoxols]

As far as I know band collars(I've never heard Mao used for them) are an imitation of tunic collars for detachable collars. You can still sew a button on the back and attach a collar with little difficulty.

[allegedkurd]

Oh man 4k! Love the tutorial, as I'm a fan of having a good arsenal of dress shirts.

[olafwDE]

05:15 left me a little confused: I've been taught that wearing a tie on a button-down collar shirt was a no-go? Just on button-downs, not the more discreet under-botton-down collars. Since then, I always considered button-down shirts to be rather leisure-style, although you find them worn and combined with ties all over the place.

[Bravenewsworld]

Good video, I even caught the neck tattooed Sasquatch guy you slyly slid in there wearing the collar bar!

[designermuppetstring]

Love your channel - you are one of my favorite personalities on youtube. Love the knowledge you share too. As a men's clothing re-seller on ebay I just love hearing about fashion and clothing. Listen a lot while taking pictures!!!

[Kevinjandro]

Thank you and great advice👈🏾 Always informative you are👌🏾