More Rust Removal Secrets

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Naval Jelly:
Muriatic Acid:

More Rust Removal Secrets

We're back. Wray has been providing little snippets of the things going on in the shop. Now that we have some time, we are making videos again. I had pulled out a fender that had some serious rust and Wray in his infinite wisdom decided to make a comparison video using Muriatic Acid, Naval Jelly and Phosphoric acid and see which works the fastest.

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If you're looking to purchase Naval Jelly or Muriatic Acid consider using our affiliate link below. Thanks for your support!
Naval Jelly:
Muriatic Acid:

proshaper
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Muriatic acid called hydrochloric acid will attack the base metal if left long enough. It is recommended to wear solid rubber gloves and eye protection. Diluting the acid may involve using gas resperator as it fumes chlorine gas .I'm an Industrial chemist.

emanuelmifsud
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Just a pro tip... I use those pad you put on the floor for aminal mistakes, they are cotton backed with plastic... you soak the pad and it forms to the shape of the metal you are working on, the plastic keeps it wet....works great, almost like it was made for it

theloosemoose
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So fantastic and humbling to see people still taking trades work so seriously and learning and proving their skills. We need more of this in the world .

mikeyhughes
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I had a jug of muriatic acid that I had just opened to do a project with inside of my garage. It was a beautiful 1930 Model A two door sedan with great paint and really no body work necessary. I got called away for an emergency that took me out of town for a couple of days. I had pushed the jug beneath a bench to keep it away from any child or such knocking it over, but I totally forgot to check the cap to the jug. When I returned home a few days later, the smell inside the garage was awful and virtually anything not painted on that car was rusted completely. Things on the dash, the underbelly and anywhere at all you could imagine. Boy, did I ever cry when that happened. It was one expensive mistake, so if you use muriatic acid, be sure to seal it tightly as it will get into the atmosphere as you said, and you will not believe the damage it can do to everything on the car, but inside the garage where anything of metal will be attacked, as well. Our water heater was out in the garage, and it too took a hit on metal parts due to my ignorance at that time. Be overly cautious in using it is just not enough of a warning once you flub up as I did with the stuff. ;-(

aford
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I bought a case of Naval Jelly on your recommendation and it amazes me. I’ll be working on paint stripping one area and have Naval Jelly working on the rust in another and after the second application I look over and the rust is gone.

tomcoryell
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Muriatic Acid comes in different strengths. I like the 31.45% HASA from the local Pool Supplier. Must to do out doors and stay up-wind. A simple cheap paint brush is all you need. No need for abrasives or rubbing at all. Just brush it on, keep it wet and in 5 mins the rust will disappear before your eyes. Brand new metal to be had. Speaking of eyes, goggles a must! Couldn't imagine getting that in the eye.

You MUST neutralize the acid. Prep a sprayer with Baking Soda and water and spray the acid. Muriatic acid reacts with baking soda to form table salt (NaCl), carbon dioxide gas (CO2), and water (H2O). It appears as a foam. After neutralizing hose it all off and dry quickly to prevent flash rusting, It's fast and easy. I just did an entire front-clip. Great results.

xgzbmlp
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I think you've triggered a flashback... I agreed to paint a friends '67 E-Type. He was so very proud of having already stripped it with paint remover (destroying all of the rubber in the process) and putting it under a cover, outside, a couple of years prior. Many gallons of muriatic later, with lots of elbow grease, we had a finish that took best in show in Phoenix.

tatdexter
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You are absolutely correct about media blasters and the damage they can do. You are spot on with the "cover the area with plastic for extending the acting properties of the chemicals for stripping, as you are with safety (running water, gloves, etc.). Perhaps you are my lost younger brother...we think alike in many ways, although I am retired. It is fun and rewarding to watch your videos and your sincere intent on passing artist-craftsman values to others.

RJ-nhhw
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To neutralize acid, you've got to use a base. Baking soda is a base, but Amonium Hydroxide is much better (fancy name for Ammonia and water). Rinse, dry, and coat with a water displacer (WD-40 or equivalent).

Also, muriatic is cheaper if you skip the paint department, and go to the swimming pool care section of the hardware store. Muriatic also cleans concrete, but be careful.

bkrefting
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I like that phospheric leaves a coating so you don't get instant flash rusting, but muriatic is often way quicker but you just need to remember to neutralize it and wash it off and oil the part.

corail
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Happy to have found you. Just looking to remove bits of rust from a metal railing around my porch so I can paint it. Now I know more about products and application. I'm fascinated with your work. Thank you.

tammypatrick
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Glad you mentioned the baking soda. It makes a.big difference followed by quick drying. Good video thank you

johndoe
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Phosphoric acid is my go to. I use 80 or 90% i cant remember but i prefer it because it leaves a protective film on the steel.

chipsnpeasifuplz
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Muriatic acid is really dangerous to the skin, lungs, and any exposed metal, but it's also really fast and really cheap.The baking soda immediately after muriatic acid exposure is a must, because flash rust will happen very quickly, otherwise.

DUCKSAREEVILLLLLLLL
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Im fixing a 1974 CB750 Honda tank. I had a good shell but bottom was rotted. Got a second tank with a good bottom. Split both, welded good halves together. BUT, im in Florida and the humidity rusted the outside of the shell. I use muriatic to get rust out of the inside, now i know i can save the outside as well. Thank you. Oh, im from Nashua, NH, so i love the accent.

digschopper
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Hi Wray, John from Oz here. Molasses dips work great too. They just take a fortnight or so. Very environmental in that you can tip the tank on the lawn when finished with it!

samueljohnclark
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50/50 molasses and water soak works great too. You lose no metal. Love your video! Thanks for all you teach!

smaqdaddy
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Great stuff! As a silversmith I call muriatic acid (hydrochloric) a cold pickle for copper alloys and it removes steel mill scale from hot rolled.

groopmmex
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I used Rust 911 to derust the water jackets on a couple Ford Flathead blocks. Capped off the water pump and set the deck up level one bank at a time. Let it soak about 48 hours and flushed it out. Did an amazing job! Got the idea from your videos.

billmiller