Secret way to remove rust from your firearm!

Buy your own bronze brushes here, just like the one in the video! Clean your firearm like a pro:

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[engmed]

Anyone who's served in the military should recognize that brush. It comes in every standard issue cleaning kit for the M16/M4 series rifles. They're outstanding brushes.

[mharris]

Most of us old timers were aware of cleaning rust from pitted finishes with brass. However, this is a great video for those who were unaware. Youi've probably been responsible for saving the finish on many firearms by sharing this. Thanks.

[timothycunningham]

I have used CLP and a penny to remove rust without damaging the finish. A drop of CLP on the area, coat the entire area by using your finger. Next I take a penny, hold it between my thump and index finger at a 45* angle using the edge/side lip and get to rubbing with the penny. Being that copper cladding is softer than the steel it won’t damage the finish and the edge of the penny will do a more efficient job of removing larger pieces/areas of rust. Then when I’m done I wipe down the surface with an alcohol prep, gauze and alcohol (denatured works best) or a mild degreaser. Finally, I will wipe down the entire surface with a silicon clothe or rag with CLP.

[evansmith]

Brass brush followed up with bore solvent works even easier. The solvent is designed for copper fouling and removes the brass stain easily. Just wipe with oil and you’re done!

[d.lindsey]

Mark Novak, the Anvil gunsmith, had a video showing how to restore a lightly rusted blued gun surface. He put the rusted part in boiling water for a time, then removed it, and the water evaporated immediately. A very fine buffing wire wheel gently applied to the surface removed the discoloration to reveal that the bluing had been restored. It didn't repair pitting or loose scale rust, but the brown rust patina surface was restored to blued, not the base metal silver color of raw steel.

[rangerdave]

In the Army, we used a #2 pencil. The graphite does an incredible job of removing rust with no damage to the finish.

[ceciljohnson]

I dont know why people say that they can remove the rust but preserve the finish.
To me the finish is the protective coating over the bare metal.
If there is rust the finish is already compromised. The metal needs to have a protective coating put back on after removing the rust

[royjohnson]

Boat propeller paint, airplane propeller paint, and Tremclad or Rustoleum black metal paint in either gloss or matte. They all can be used to paint a firearm “instead of” bluing.
~Another thing is when you’re handling gun oil or toxic solvents then wear disposable “nitrile gloves” (they come in boxes of 50 or 100. I use XL size). Do not do it with your bare hands because toxic poisons can be absorbed through the skin.

[pablobuerto]

I live near the ocean. Going back to the late 1970's, I invested in silicone treated gun wiping/cleaning cloth(s) and silicone treated gun socks - both are inexpensive.
After cleaning or periodic wiping down, place silica gel packets - they're also inexpensive - in every case, safe, or drawer in which you've got a firearm stored. I rotate the silica packets about every other year.

30ea., 20 gram, food grade packets, I put two - 1 top, 1 bottom - in every soft rifle case and pistol case. The packets will set cha back a whopping $1.50 each and are - trust me - worth every penny.

[snowlothar]

Hardly a secret. Been doing similar for 40 years, using any brass tool - brushes, commercially available brass pick and scrapers, and my favorites, either pure brass wool or a .308 brass case cut in half and smashed flat. Works like a charm. Just make sure your brushes are not brass coated steel - many are and that will ruin you day. If you insist on a brush I highly recommend the 24 pack of wood handled brushes available from the same source, for just over 50 cents each.

[fort]

PB blaster is really good for removing rust in tight places, also with the brush. I’m almost finished restoring a Revelation 350 shotgun, nothing worked in the trigger assembly. Could not open the barrel. Thanks to PB blaster.

[barnybrewman]

Great tip. I live on the Pacific Northwest coast where rust is a big problem with blued gun metal. They also sell copper wool that works very well. The biggest concern with that much rust pitting is what the inside of the bore looks like, hopefully the rifling is not to bad.

[louisbecker]

From my experience, even cloth or a brush made from something softer than the steel still picks up oxidized particles that have the potential to scratch the finish. I use the pre-82 copper penny trick with a liberal amount of oil to float the particles away.

[robertgantry]

Found some light rust on my rilfe. Took a brass tooth brush and some hoppe's nitro solvent and went to work. Put some gun oil on it as done in the video above. When I was finished the rusted spot was unnoticeable, almost undetectable. The blue finish was still there, as in the video.

[coyafilbert]

I always used a pre-82' real copper penny and gun oil, lubing the rusted area and rubbing the penny on the barrel till the rust comes off, works perfectly.

[awfultruth]

I have restored and repaired multiple guns and while the video actually shows one of the possible ways to get rid of the rust, that's by no mean the less invasive and it DOES NOT guarantee that the finish will not come over - especially with rust pits like those. And it may also leave scratch marks on the weapon, although very light ones.
Methods to get rid of the rust of a firearm (From the least aggressive to the most aggressive)
1)Boiling the part. It's really time consuming but relatively simple. Just boil the part for enought time to remove the rust.
2) Rub it with soda. Soda is lightly abrasive and can slowly remove the rust.
3)Electolysis. Immerge the part in a water container filled with salt and water and trigger the reaction by connecting a car battery to the system (+ terminal to the part, - terminal to a metal rod that hangs on the container)
4) Hydrochloric acid. That's kinda aggressive. Just put the part into a container full of acid. This will remove all the rust. Beware: It may leave the a mate like finish on the part if you keep it too long in the solution.

5) Brushing and grinding. I would advice you not to use this one. The probability to leave marks is extremely high.

[AKAUncleBeau]

There is also the theory to never use a nonferrous brush, as the brush leave particles of a dissimilar metal on the steel. Moisture could cause galvanic corrosion to occur between the two metal particles. Of course, moisture would eventually cause oxidation anyway, so whatever.
One actual tip though. With a wire brush (or any stiff material) the natural springing back and forth of the bristle tips create the cleaning action. Once bent the tips aren't aligned and are less effective. If you are bearing down and bend the bristles, you are pressing to hard.

[williamster]

You can remove all the rust using many different types of cleaning solutions. There are solutions in many categories, everything from household, firearm, automotive and even Tool/ hardware solvents that will completely remove rust. They will also do so with nothing more than a cotton rag while not leaving behind non ferrous metal behind in the puts of the steel.

[jeff]

For those wondering why the wool removed the red oxide but not the black oxide it's because black iron oxide is very hard while the red isn't. In fact black iron oxide is used to coat drill bits to extend their lifespan.

[commonsenserules]

I have a Remington model 12a bought at a farm auction. The barrel was not pitted, rusty but not severe. I applied gun oil and let it soak for a while, then, wiped with gun patches. That removed the surface rust sufficiently leaving a nice somewhat blue patina.