1998 Chevy K1500 5.7 stalling rough idle loss of power. Please like and sub. UPDATE IN DESCRIPTION

The truck turns off while in idle. turns off at low speeds when making a turn and applying the breaks. 2000+ rpm when starting then slowly coming down. while driving on the high way she jerks like she has loss of fuel for split seconds at a time.
new fuel filter
new fuel pump
new plugs and wires
new cap and rotor
new egr valve
new mass airflow sensor
new air filter
new idle control valve
new throttle position sensor
new torque converter
new belt
new pulley
new tensioner pulley
intake gaskets recently replaced
new oil and oil filter ever 3 months.
new battery

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[staceymeeks]

I got similar issue. I thought I had bad luck. Then I read all these comments. U win

[jimmieblue]

Check out the crank position sensor it will cause it to run rough. The distributor cap and rotor can cause the truck to stall. Stay away from aftermarket parts I have found they cause more problems stay with original parts.

[blabla]

It's your grounds. These old GMT 400 chevys had terrible, terrible ground straps. the passenger side one running from the firewall to the rear of the cylinder head would fall apart because it would just sit on top of the exhaust headers. Terrible design, but it's the only thing you said you haven't replaced and it is the most common failure point of these trucks.

[itzmeryangee]

I’m having the same issue. It’s been going on for a few months now. I’ve always worked on my 94 myself, but this time I had to take it to a mechanic. The 2 times I took it, they said nothing was wrong. They said I just need to drive it, and not worry about it. But 3/4 of the time, I can’t keep it running. I told them it may be normal for these new vehicles to shut off at the red light, but not for a 30 year old vehicle. I’m sure the gas that’s produced these days are poison to the older vehicles. And something else I’ve realized, the factory sensors that lasted 100, 000+ miles, when replaced, you’ll be lucky to go 20, 000 miles before having to replace it again. Even AC Delco parts. Everything made today is so cheaply made, but cost twice as much.

[robertgraham]

Check the wiring harness, it’s to close to the front drive shaft and gets rubbed. You’ll see it touching the front drive shaft when you get underneath, just separate and repair those wires.

[Thegr]

Check fuel regulator for your injectors. Also check your injectors make sure you have a good spray pattern and not a drip drip.

[jonmcd]

Your brake booster looks really old. Pull the line off the check valve and put your finger over the line so it doesn't have a vacuum leak and see if it fixes it. Your brake booster could be leaking and causing the issue.

Fuel pressure regulator inside the intake.

[JasenFromBoston]

same problem but i can add to it. i spent 6, 000.00 at the repair shop and while they did fix things, the issue persists. the best help was the idle and throttle control valves. besides that i also replaced all new grounds, new crank sensor, new camshaft position sensor, new ignition control module, new ignition coil, new ignition. checked the passlock ignition module, and the fuel cut off switch associated with it. I believe my issue is bad fuel related and i recommend following the fuel pressures and trims to make sure its staying up where it needs to be under load and at rest. I also noticed that when stopping at a red light, shifting to neutral helps it from stalling and bucking when stopped. we have to have the knowledge to verify especially with the parts we are getting today. just because its replaced doesn't mean you cant get 3 bad parts in a row like my cam and crank sensors and 3 ignition coil / module combo's were bad all from different places. i didn't even bother removing the old one's, just strapped it down next to it using the head bolt lolz

[kbutta]

Mines was doing the same thing and I had recently changed the wires. Some reason I was otw home and it started bogging out. Didn’t wanna stay idling at low rpm and had the floor it. I changed the wires and plug the the best they had and mine been fine since. If not get a multimeter and check the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

[jamesbannister]

I had a issue with my 99 suburban wherey ignition failed and was causing things like this. Eventually it got to a point where i lost my fuel pump guage and ecm all at once. Changed new pump. All fuses and got almost all issuesues fixed. Eventually found the starter connections slightly loose. Cleaned everything grounding spots i could find.. cleaned andd tightened it and everything has been great aince

[JoshMorley-ub]

Ignition module under the cap, always replace when you do cap and rotor .

[technicalitems]

Start at battery. Work your way through whole vehicles and clean all grounds or replace faulty ground straps. Then voltage regulator. Pressurized cooling system and if doesn't hold its intake gasket. Do spider injection and intake gasket. Replace distributor too. Check all sensors.

[Justin-mpzh]

I HAD THE EXACT SAME ISSUE AND DID THE SAME AS YOU!! lol brother I had the exact same issue. It was the Ignition control module in the distributor. I replaced everything for peace of mind but the actual issue was the ICM and I see that is the only thing you dont seem to have replaced. If I were you I would replace that and also go through the process of resetting the IAC and stuff and double and triple check for ANY vacuum leaks after your finished. I couldnt turn the steering wheel or put it in gear without it dying. I had to be on the throttle to keep it running. My issue was identical to yours brother.

[XJon]

Spider injection system gives a bunch of guys problems. Fuel pumps too. Of the gas tank has never been dropped, it's worth it to check the fuel hose on top of the fuel pump as they can get hairline cracks which are hard to notice. Connections inside get corroded sometimes, this can cause all sorts of problems also makes your gas gauge inaccurate.

[squidduck]

Grounds. One is beneath the evaporator. Goes to rear of motor and another to the frame. Replace them. Also, distributor bushings may be worn and there is play as the shaft is turning. Replace the distributor. Do not use a cheap replacement distributor unless you want to replace it again in a year.

[hiromiya]

When you applied the brake it stalls out, then you have a vacuum leak from the Brake Booster, replace your brake booster and clean your throttle body.

[joeellis]

from what i noticed is your charcol canister line to intake hooked up?

[trumpsarmy]

My 98 done the exact same thing and it was two things throttle position sensor and a bad body to motor ground wire

[paulbutler]

Control module In distributer. $30.00 part . Two screws done. Module is were wires plug into distributer. Ps: a bad cap and button can do it also.