Why Use a Light Meter?

In this video, photographer David Flores highlights why using a dedicated light meter will yield better results than you’d get from your camera’s built-in light meter. Light meters are fast, can read exposure with flash, and are often programmable, giving you the ability to more accurately actualize the image that’s in your head. Check it out!

Light Meter used for this video:

B&H Explora: Understanding Camera Metering Modes

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[roryonabike]

Good to see this video. Several years ago I purchased a camera that didn't have a light meter. I got a Sekonic L-758DR and soon learned how liberating a light meter is and how much control it offers. These days, I'm shooting a fair amount of video and I'm amazed at the number of people shooting video who have no idea what a light meter can do for them.

[foulweatherworks]

Always been a proponent of the light meter! One note, the real power of these light meters is their incident abilities, in the scene at 1:19 instead of being under the scaffolding in the shade taking reflective readings, which is what your camera would be doing on its own, I'd walk out across the crosswalk into the frame of your photo, then point the incident meter up to the big softbox in the sky (clouds) on that overcast day, that's going to be the most accurate reading for that scene, the exposure brightening slightly at the top of the buildings as you get closer to the clouds (light source).

[richardeyre]

The reason to use a light meter is simple. it gives you a reading of the actual light hitting the subject, the camera only sees what is reflected off the subject. This varies greatly depending on the colour of the subject. Black or white for example. If the camera is looking at black, there is not much light reflected so the camera tend to increase the exposure time and overexpose the picture. If the camera is looking at some thing white, there is more light reflected and the camera reduces the exposure time and the photo tends to be under exposed. The light meter tells to camera the actual light present not the perceived light. Anyway, nice video.

[terrymcgovern]

I still use an analog Sekonic Studio DeLuxe II that I've had for over thirty years. Still works great and uses no batteries.

[videogra]

Good explanation. I understood what it means thanks for that. Thank you!

[gewglesux]

A cheap addition to any kit... they do come in handy. not a necessity but it makes things easier.

[jbliborio]

Thanks for this video. Very usefull. Regards from Brazil.

[antdx]

I just determine whether I want something sharp or not (shutter), whether I want full scene sharpness or not (aperture), then the compromise is Always the ISO. The light metering can be ok on the camera but it doesn't really make the shot better. You have to determine your compromise. You can try taking an HDR to get Both the shadows and highlights but ultimately one has to be compromised over the other at times which is why using Aperture/Shutter priority then messing w/ the EV dial makes it the quickest way to determine what works for you after you've seen what your camera can do HDR 1-shot wise and how you your shot to be. Bigger sensors shooting RAW should be considered a savior. The real reason why you want to shoot with a bigger sensor in the first place. Not just because the ISO is usually lower than smaller sensors but for the better HDR capability.

Basically, if your camera is showing 0 EV but you know you are clipping highlights, you need to lower the EV. If you know the scene is Massive dark because a part of the screen is too bright, you need to increase the EV. Take a few shots with 0.3+ either direction and be done with it if you really care about finding the right EV. Imo, getting the right WB matters more but from what I've seen even that can be completely corrected w/ the right camera. You need to make sure you aren't clipping either direction where you cannot bring stuff back in post editing. It Should not matter what it says at 0 EV all the time. It's how "balanced" everything looks on the camera, then take that data to know how much to add for an ND filter for shutters speeds above 30" for great intervalometer long exposuring. I actually have great time lapse results when going at least 0.7+ EV going into the night. I'm not super clipping the day time too but shooting at EV would be hell trying to bring up all the JPG shots that are dark.

[jerryrichards]

Can you use a polarizer to cut out the shinny highlites on her fase?

[MariaGarcia-jeqb]

¡Gracias por los subtítulos en español!

[SupaIs]

Can you recommend one that is more budget friendly

[BrianMarcWhittaker]

I noticed that you did the incident metering in different spots around her head. Is that recommended?

[KemiiLou]

How come you put your lens to f4.0 but then the pictures you showed were at f3.6 and f2.8. Was it too dark at f4.0?

[piotrwydmuch]

Quick question. Why shoot ISO 500 in studio instead of base ISO?

[nicolebenewaah]

Really loved your explanation, I would have love to know how to set-up the light Meter mine, displays other numbers in the f/ stop like 1.4.(2) the 2 is a bit smaller, but I saw that your f-stop was the full number f/4. Would love to know how to make it work maybe someone in the comments know how I can set it up ?

[iRabb]

In the street scene, were you doing reflected metering with the incident dome?

[jasonhall]

Just out of curiosity what did the camera recommend on the street scene?

[spyker]

What the difference between that device and auto mode in camera? (Beginner here)

[michaelreynolds]

i have a sekonic l308s and i cant get the shutter speed above 60 is that normal what if i need to shoot handheld with a 70/200 f2/8 lens that shutter speed just wont work what am i missing here ? please help coz i want to rediscover my light meter its fine for flash at 200 but for outdoor i just cant get that shutter speed up

[tsndr_]

The thumbnail looks like he's shaving her face :D