Ford Vehicles: Electronic Throttle Body Calibration Procedure

Here is the jumper leads I used in the video, for the price they are worth it to do it right, you can buy them here-
If you need to clean your ETB follow this procedure-
In this video we go over why you must learn the throttle body and how to do it properly.

[challengerpilot]

Just did this on my wife's 06 fusion. Dealer wanted $700.00 to change it out. I did it for $200.00 and about 45 minutes of time thanks to this video.
Man I really appreciate this channel and the insight it provides.

[jamienichols]

Update on my throttle body install. My local ford dealership wanted $800 for parts and labor. I timed myself from the moment my hand opened the tool box and I did the swap in 17 minutes. I wanted to knock it out as fast as possible just to prove a point. After following the re learn procedure it's running like new again. Thanks again for the valuable videos!

[moffitxx]

I can't thank you enough. I'd just changed my 2008 Ford Fusion's battery and had no idea what was going on when my car started limping along. I'm poor and can't really afford a tow or auto repair bill, but a series of google searches led me here, and what you said worked! Thank you!!

[wtdash]

This is covered in the OM, too: 1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the
transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the
transmission may shift firmly. This operation is considered normal and
will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time the
adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation to its
optimum shift feel.

[laurawalsh]

Cannot thank you enough for this video!! My truck (expedition) was running so badly I thought the alternator was going out. Tested that and it was fine. You saved our family trip vehicle, thus our precious memories, and improved our quality of life as a result! Thank you again!!!

[phalnix]

FordTechMakuloco--After spending $736.00 at my local shop to get my air conditioning working again, I came home and started to get dash lights coming on. First, the check engine light came on, followed by the wrench light. I had a scanner tool, hooked it up and got two error codes. The most severe was the one causing the wrench light to light up and that was the P061B code. I watched your video, made my own jumpers and did exactly what you told us to do and it worked like a charm! I had to subscribe! Thank you so much sir! You da man!

[adammammana]

Ok I just completed this entire procedure and it worked perfectly. Idles great and I think it improved my shift points too!! I am not a mechanic at all and this was not hard.

[jlamarrr]

Took off my throttle body to clean it on my 2007 500, I put it back on & got the engine light and car was having acceleration issues. Tried this & its running like new now. I can't thank you enough.

[flyvertigo]

I'm glad there are people like you on youtube sharing information.

[pq]

Just used this sequence after removing and cleaning TB from a 2012 Ford Escape 2.5L. Car had very rough idle at cold start and would shake and rattle like a son of a gun at start up until at normal operating temp. Cleaned the TB and followed your directions on the TB recalibration. Shaking and hard start completely gone and runs like the day it was driven off the lot. Thank you.

[Andy-igls]

Wow…this video is 8 years old but ya know what…it really helped me today!!!! I had changed out some parts recently (EGR solenoid, o2 sensors, fuel filter, air filter), removed and installed the throttle body, and disconnected the battery several times. I couldn’t figure out why my gas mileage was suddenly so bad afterwards. I did this procedure and it completely fixed my gas mileage issue. Thank you!!!!

[hinckleylds]

Thank you so much for this video! I let my van run for 15 minutes idling (after doing what you said with the battery), and then another 10 minutes driving with the air condition on. This seemed to help it relearn and return back to its correct idling. Your knowledge is great and appreciated.

[zlsnowracer]

You are the reason a daily driving a 160k mile 3.0 fusion doesn't scare me, with your videos we will make it through anything! thanks for saving me again!!

[lowmonte]

PERFECT! I installed a new throttle body after my Ford Fusion was going limp mode with a throttle body failure code. I kept getting the error and code with the new throttle body, followed your procedure here, and now it works just fine! thanks so much! this is the kind of thing I love about Youtube!

[bigmoolah]

I replaced my tps and my truck started idling rough and shifting hard, this reset actually worked and stopped my truck from idling so high and now it shifts way smoother. THANK YOU!

[MrYannuzzi]

I performed this procedure on my 2010 Mercury Milan, and it worked GREAT !!! Just like you said; can't thank you enough you saved me hundreds $$$ in mechanic cost. Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!

[williamcharles]

I have to consider you the top man for Ford products on YouTube or anywhere else for that matters. Your videos are a, "must go to", for any kind of issues with newer Ford vehicle issues. By "newer" I mean since electronics and modern technology has entered the automotive picture. I sure am glad that I'm a Ford man. You've made my life a lot easier, thanks for that, plus, you've saved this old retiree a ton of bucks, too.

[handjgrimm]

Bless you, man. I've stubbornly been trying to get my Ford Explorer (4.0) to idle down and not die when I put it in gear for a month. I've changed parts, cleaned everything to no avail. Was about ready to go in to the transmission and unhook the sensor. I already poked holes in the cat converter....You're little trick with resetting the PCM fixed it in minutes. Thank you so much.

[SwapPartLLC]

Thank you! I spent days trying to figure out why my friend's 5.4l 3v F150 kept stalling after changing the crankshaft sensor and spark plugs. The job itself was a nightmare because one of the plugs broke above the threads and refused to come out with an easyout. And worse, the first easyout I tried was too small and pushed all the porcelain out of the tip into the cylinder (and got stuck). The first easyout was 3/8ths, which would not go through the hex portion which had broken off, but under that it gets bigger and a 1/2" is needed. I struggled for a day trying to get the easyout out, but couldn't reach it with anything that would grip it enough to pull it out. I finally made a collet from an 8" long 5/8ths bolt. I drilled a hole 2 inches deep, and about 50 thousandths smaller than the diameter of the easyout through the hex end of the bolt. I then cut a cross into the bolt, all the way down to the base of the hole I drilled, and cut the hex portion off. I took 2 3" pieces of 3/4" steel tubing from Home Depot, cut from a 3' piece. The inside diameter was 5/8ths and it fit perfectly over the bolt. I tapped the bolt over the easyout and slipped the 2 pieces of tubing over it. I put a big washer on and ran a nut down it. I used 2 other nuts locked together at the top so I could hold it from turning without damaging the threads. The lower nut forced the tubing down and locked the bolt to the easyout just like a collet holds a drill bit. Once it was far enough down, I took it apart, removed the top piece of tubing, and slipped a 4" length of 1" pipe over it. Again I applied a washer, a nut, and 2 more nuts locked together at the top to hold it from spinning. I then turned the lower nut about 1 turn and the easyout came out with the tip stuck in it. This was the point where I realized that all the porcelain from the tip was in the cylinder. My homemade tool was used again when I broke the second easyout. I ultimately ended up using the guide from the tip removal tool and drilling it out with a 9/16ths bit. I put one of the broken tips in and gave it a few taps to seat it, and that kept the metal shavings from going into the cylinder. I went very slow, and checked about every 1/8th of an inch, to see how much more I needed to drill. It went so perfectly that I never even touched the original threads and the bit pulled the plug threads out of the head threads as it went. I then ran an M16x1.5 tap through (I again found a use for my homemade collet) just to make sure the threads were clean enough to take a new plug. I spent about 3 hours trying to fish the porcelain out, and ultimately found that I was going to have to crush it and blow it out. I crushed it with a piece of 1/4" all thread which I had ground the threads off. This was done blind, and took hours. I basically just got it to where I knew it was and could set the camera on it, then followed the same angle with the all thread. I could tell when I was on it, but it kept slipping. Finally, I got on it good and crushed it by tapping it with a hammer. I blew it all out, and have been trying to get it to run for the past 3 days. I really have been thinking I missed some porcelain and damaged a valve, when all along it just needed to relearn it's base idle. It purrs like a kitten now. I should also point out that I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body before beginning the relearn process.

[lawrencewillis]

2015 Taurus Limited, 3.5 V6 engine. Had P2111 (Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Open) show up 3 times on my code reader after my car died on me 3 times on the way home from lunch. It always started back up and ran fine. Decided to replace ETB at about $90 instead of cleaning because I didn't want my engine to go to idle when I was in traffic. Followed your instructions and now the car is running great again. Thank you!