Tricks for removing stubborn or broken bolts | Hagerty DIY

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Losing your mind because the only thing holding up your project is a seized bolt? Davin Reckow is here to show you the tools and techniques you’ll need to get those frustrating bolts out of the way. Whether you’re a practiced wrench in the garage or a newcomer, it’s always good to know how to get over those project roadblocks.

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Good job! In my experience - first, spend 20 minutes looking for your vice-grips - then - bang your knee on the corner of the table. As you're on the ground rubbing your knee have wife/girlfriend come in to ask if you're going to mow the lawn or not because it's about to rain for 20 days and nights. Find vice-grips in a box under the table labeled "not vice-grips". FINALLY, grab your torch that has just enough gas to heat it up halfway and break off the ear of the casting - go purchase a new casting that costs $1200.

beobe
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I was glad to hear you clean the threads out of the hole with a tap.
As a Michigan tool and diemaker (Grand Rapids)
I run into this all the time. You did a great job teaching this. As a seasoned T&D I know a good Technical Trainer when I hear them and you sir are one of them.
Pay Attention to this man people.

marvbush
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Doing it ALL wrong.

You swear and scream at it till it removes itself!

fixedguitar
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Another bit of useful tech from Davin! I'm a big fan of fixing with fire.

gtoger
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I'll add a couple things that have worked for me.

Use a nut about 2 sizes bigger than the bolt or stud, it allows the weld to travel all way down the remaining threads and is less likely to break the nut off.

2nd tip for steel in steel, weld it, let it sit a minute, hit the bolt only with a shot of penetrating oil, then try a wrench on it. By spraying the hot bolt/nut it is cooled quickly and almost breaks the seized threads away from the tapped hole.

wreckandraceify
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All good and thank you !! One additional "tip" that needs to be included on this subject is to suggest the use of "Anti-Seize" when using studs or bolts in aluminum.

pappabob
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Thanks for showing those methods Dave. I especially like the nut welded on.

tedhewitt
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Haven’t been to many welding shops that were more than happy to help me with anything ha. Better off finding a friend to help out

kellyfull
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I'm so glad that I came across to your channel! I have two hex bolts that will not come out of my disc rotor. I stripped the head while trying other methods all at the same time. One thing I have no experience with is welding. I'm gonna try taking it to my welding shop.

kurtismckemmie
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I had a seized exhaust flange stud and a guy heated it up with an oxy-acytelene torch and used a pipe wrench to back it out. The pipe wrench to me worked a little better than vise grips because it grips harder as pressure is applied.

pepoppa
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I was taught way way back to use a rich acetylene flame, and soot up the area where your going to heat. When the part is heated the soot will stay in place. When the soot disappears (burns off) the part is heated to just below the melting point of the aluminum.

brjr
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respect for this video! guys working with their hands and heads are worth of highest respect

AlexxanderOnYoutube
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He's 2 for 2 in 5 minutes and I'm like 2 for 50 lifetime.

greengeeker
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Ya good work! I place a flat washer under the nut before welding when possible thanks
Take care be safe

johnfleury
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I seen a machinist trick of using paraffin (candle wax ) for dissimilar metals like aluminium housing and iron bolt. Paraffin doesn't burn off like penetrating oils do. It worked excellent for me. I used it 3 times, lawn mower, alternator bolt and the a tach mounting nut for our Ferguson to35. Just heat gently and rub on wax. Then work bolt back and forth until loose. Repeat as necessary.

danielalamo
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Another tip. Esp. If you only have a propane torch, you can use your household oven to preheat the piece. If it's 0 degrees in your shop, you might run out of propane before stud/bolt is freed from a beefy steel component! I do remove all sensors and seals if at all possible.

shotforshot
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Removal of the first bolt I agree with your process completely. The second bolt I have two issues. First one is that you never back turned the bolt to clean the threads. Second issue is an argumentative one on the usage of the combination wrench. After breaking the bolt loose most mechanics/engineers would use the open end for ease of wrench placement and speed of removal. But due to the failure of back turning the bolt resistance was not reduced.

greglloyd
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Thank you, My l98 intake is off and both t stat bolts are broken, great video .

commanderofthenorth
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Ahh c'mon Davin.. this was no challenge. How about a part not easily accessible, two steel rusted components that have been stuck together for 40 years. Oh and from a car that sees snow and salt.

mobiledevto
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Great way to approach that stuck screw by welding the nut. That gives me an idea to do the same in removing a seized chrome dust cap from a crankset on a road bike.

dholga