How to Remove a Stuck Rotor - 5 Methods

Five different methods on how to remove a stuck or seized rotor. I did run into quite the problem with the Dodge, so I’ll go through the basic methods first, then working up harder methods using more tools. This applied to rotor setups where the rotors and hubs are separate assemblies. #brakes #maintenance #mechanic

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ball-peen hammer
-penetrating oil
-wire brush
-puller
-bolts

Procedure:
Method #1
Using a ball-peen hammer, a medium-sized version would be the safest choice, hit between the wheel stud locations. A medium version will have enough weight but will fit comfortably between the wheel studs. Do no hit outside of this area as you can damage the rotor. You can install the lug nuts or rubber hose cuts over the studs to protect them if you wish. A few hits should help break it loose. Sometimes you can apply penetrating oil around the wheel lug locations and bore of the rotor. Even letting the oil soak overnight may help break up the corrosion bond. You’ll notice right away when the rotor breaks free and then you can finally remove it.

Method #2
This applies to rotors equipped with the parking brake assembly and this will be equipped on the rear wheels and you’ll see the parking brake cable entering the brake shield on the rear. Locating the rubber access cover, remove that and then using a standard screwdriver or a brake tool, you’ll need to back off the shoes on the inside. Depending on the vehicle, they may turn a different direction for each side. With the Dodge, this wasn’t the case, on one side it was located at the top and on the other it was located at the bottom. Closing in the shoes will allow the rotor to be removed if there is a lip on the inside braking surface. You should be able to rotate the wheel freely if it’s not, then the pads could be engaged, something is binding up, or the pads are rusted to the braking surface on the rotor.

Method #3
A similar type of idea to a puller, but if you don’t have a puller, using the caliper carrier mounting points, find suitable bolts with washers, and nuts, this will help you get a push on the rotor. If you are keeping the rotors, I would recommend putting a barrier between the bolt and rotor so no marring is caused by the bolt. Use both, while there is quite a bit of pressure on this assembly when braking, it’s more of a rotational direction and being that these are typically a cast design, don’t get too carried away where you may crack and break these mounting points.

Method #4
Next is using a puller. A puller can also be used on the rotors without a parking brake assembly. I was only able to rotate the rotor a small amount, not a full revolution which means something is binding up in behind. You’ll need a large enough puller set up for this, there are various types of pullers available. There should be an indentation on the center of the hub for the cone on the center bolt to lock into. Lock the jaws on the outside edge of the rotor, it’s best to go on the backside of the rotor if possible, here I couldn’t do that. It’s important to apply oil to the threads of the center bolt, then tighten the puller. If it does come off when tightening, then hit the center bolt of the puller with a hammer. These rotors are being replaced so I’m not worried about damaging them. Therefore I tried to hit the rotor on the backside with this pressure from the puller, this will help assist it off. Tighten the puller when needed so it applies constant force.

Finally, after it was dark, I got the rotor off. In this situation, the parking brake shoes actually separated from the frames and the shoes jammed on each other, not allowing me to remove the rotor easily.

Method #5
This is after trying at least the first two methods. Cutting off the mounting pins for the shoes which will be visible on the mounting plate from the rear. You can either drill them or grind them off using a carbide bur bit. With the mounting pins disconnected, while all the other hardware is still there, the pads can have some movement and collapse slightly. Typically I like to avoid heat so it doesn’t risk damaging the bearing assembly. In a worst-case scenario if all else fails is cutting up the mounting plates, just make sure new ones can be purchased for your vehicle.

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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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[browsebywire]

The bolt and washer method using an impact driver worked for me. It worked GREAT! I don't think anything else would have worked, unless I had one of those rotor pullers. I wish I had the bolts from the get-go, as I could have shaved hours off the job had I used that method first. I used 7/16 diameter as they were the thickest that woukd still fit through the hole. The rotors were stuck on so tight that the threading on the bolts actually got damaged as by the forces if the inpact driver. So, make sure you have some extra nuts/bolts. I was elated that this worked. It saved me from having to take my car back to the shop again.

[drodriguez]

God Lord, please don’t let me have to do step two through five please this is your humble servant, and secondly bless this young man sitting out here in the snow doing this job so he doesn’t get screwed over by pocket eating mechanics😂🇺🇸🙏🏽

[Beyandanimelover]

#3 worked for me! 21 year old female who does her own mechanic work taught by my dad. Couldn’t get the rotor off and didn’t want to call him to come help. Thank you for the tips and tricks!

[geraldtipton]

I used method 3 using just one bolt to push from the rear. The rotor came right off. Thank you for the tip.

[crushrreviews]

Method 3 worked for me and took seconds to remove the rotor after I had already spent a full hour hammering the rotor using a sledge style hammer with no luck. The rotor looked like Swiss cheese with all that hammering so I never imagined that bolt method would work, but I tried it anyway and HOLY GOD !!! It took seconds and just a few turns of the ratchet to get that all so soothing POP of the rotor breaking loose. THANK YOU

[alvinstreicker]

Great video. Short bur very detailed and enough differrent methods for anyone to understand

[hothmobile]

It really helps when I remember to not leave the parking brake on. Lol.

[alexcolby]

Method #3 was my saving grace! I sent two hours trying to get it off an hammering the rotor (I am replacing it). Thanks for your help!

[alexandrechoquette]

The method #3 save me after trying all the others options. Thank you so much!

[raygallant]

The bolt method saved my day
The best rotor removal video I’ve seen yet

[bobabraham]

Living in New England with salted roads means dealing with stuck rotors. very often the bolt holes to help you remove the rotor were rusted beyond use. I used to spend a lot of time teasing and tapping, heating with torches, I’ve developed a technique using a carbide tipped blade on a SawsAll. Position the rotor so you can saw through the rotor right down to the hub flange and make a cut so that the hub flange just visible. Obviously don’t cut any lines, wires or suspension pieces. Then with an angle grinder extend that line across the face of the rotor to the hub flange. Remove most of the metal but be careful not to cut down into the flange. At this point a very small amount of brittle cast iron is holding the rotor on. Take a cold chisel or a heavy screwdriver and tap it into the cut forcing the rotor to expand. You will hear a metallic clink as the rotor splits. Takes about 10 minutes a side once you know what you’re doing.

[bretb]

Excellent. Great idea using the bracket and I installed lug nuts while pounding outside to be safe. I just had to pound on mine for a minute with my BFH and it freed up.

[lamonttimmons]

Great vid. Sometimes just putting the lug nuts back on will loosen it up. A version of Method 3 I guess. Thanks again! This helped!!!

[MF]

#6: (Related to #3) In that same gap where the bolt is attempting to do the
spreading in #3, I used a steel wood-splitting wedge: tap it in with a hammer,
tap it sideways to remove, rotate the wheel, do it again, etc. It took
about 20 minutes, but gradually worked the rotor off without bending the
caliper bracket mounts.

[vladimirk]

The method 2 is good. The only problem it is difficult to see where is the mecanism. What i did to see better is to drill a bigger hole. This way i could see where it is and i removed the rotor easy. Thanks for the video from Canada

[BLAM]

Just tried the bolt trick on my rav4 and ended up breaking the bolt. What ended up working was spraying the crap out of the rotors with pb blast penetrateing oil and hitting the back with a big hammer.

[mystic]

Thank you, very good information and to the point.

[paganskier]

At 2:40 method 3 and PB Blaster overnight did the trick. I was certainly concerned about breaking the ears off the hub, but not much pressure required and ping she was free.

[frankphoto]

I saw a vid where you run the engine with tires off and apply brakes in forwards a reverse. Note the stud position against the disc this may twist the disc on the hub just enough to free it gonna try it today. Be sure your in two wheel drive or jack all four wheels off the ground. Great vid I used the puller with sucess. Wish I had loosened the e brakes first though. I broke the pads as well. Thank you for making this.