How To Use a Pinion Depth Gauge

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For me, using a pinion depth gauge is the best way to measure pinion depth and finding the perfect pinion shim. It’s way more accurate than going by gear tooth pattern and saves a bunch of time. In this video I show you how to set up and use the tool to measure pinion depth in just about any differential.

I hope you find this information useful!

#ETCGVideo #ETCGDadsTruck

Thanks for watching!

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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
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a 1 2 3 block used for a spacer in machining work. It takes up space and is finely ground to exact specifications. each dimension is 1/2/3 inches usually.

ykmalachi
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I am a retired ford tech ford supplied dealers with the set up tools for their diffs and you had a pipe that you bolted in the carrier position and pinion depth goodies where you did not use the actual pinion gear measured with feeler gauges. Fords setup tools worked fantastic and was fast to do because you did not use the actual pinion. when you found the correct shims slap them on the pinion and install it and get the correct backlash on the carrier 99% you were dead on when you checked the gear mesh. i got the tool you used for doing diffs in my home shop, i cussed that damn thing the first few times i used it till i watched a few videos were they honed the bearings and i cooled down then. works great espicially on those darn whinning jeep cherokee diffs. gotta a 85 dodge van i bought for camping has a 294 gear open. gonna install a locker and probably go to a 355 to 373 cause it's bad high speeded for pulling my stratos bass boat and with and open rear the van and boat will be in the water. people are for the most part dumb when it comes to buying trucks to pull thier boats and 80% of the time dealers order open rear diff trucks to save money as it is an added cost option. people say i got a 4 wheel drive z71 if it has an open rear and front diff you ain't got shit cause you pulling one on rear and one on front and guess what you put that junk in the mud you are just as stuck as my van, , and yes people are stupid that's why there so many safety devices on gas cans, lawn mowers, and a trigger lock on damn wood working tools skil saws etc.. Go ahead dumbass stick your finger in that plastic blade fan when i was a kid the blades were gool old metal LOL good day

charleshollingsworth
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Hey Eric! That block with all the holes in it is called a 1 2 3 block. They are very popular in the machining world. Each side is precision ground so it measures exactly 1” thick by 2” wide by 3” long, hence the name. They are commonly used to check the accuracy/calibration of precision measuring instruments such as that dial indicator there, or perhaps a dial or digital caliper. They are also commonly used as precision spacers. Those are just a few of there many uses but I would assume that one came with your kit to be used to check the accuracy of the measuring setup as a whole, and also to be used as a precision spacer if need be. Like say the dial indicator doesn’t reach the face of the pinion you can put the 1 2 3 block against the face of the pinion and measure off from that, then just add 1”, 2”, or 3” to your measurement depending on how you have the 1 2 3 block oriented. A very handy tool for doing precision work.

kcscustom
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I must say. I found you pre career fixing my own can. Now several years later using this vid to learn how to properly use this new tool the boss got now I'm fixing other ppls stuff. Thanks for the knowledge you provide it is invaluable

TheMasterMischief
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These videos are in a class of their own. Quality all the way. Always a great day when ETCG uploads - still the best on YouTube. Long live Eric the Car Guy!

labradormcgraw
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Great explanation! The tool might be expensive but it's less or darn near the same to pay someone else to do it and I get to learn something new!

VacFink
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It's a 1 2 3 block used for machining. The name comes from its dimensions being 1 inch by 2 inches by 3 inches. It has tons of uses, I use it for starting drill bits, center drilling or taps to make sure they go in straight

Joseph-egff
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11:00 The difference between calculated shim adjustment and final actual comes down to the fact the face 3:39 of the pinion you're measuring from, using the magnet as a plane, isn't ground flat and perpendicular to the axis of rotation and the flat magnet sits on it. It's heat treated and case hardened and that process alone can introduce high spots on that face. The magnet will sit on the three high spots that are directly in contact with it at any one time and that position changes when you remove to adjust the shims and do the final install. Obviously, if the magnet is not used in the exact same position on the pinion face, those spots can be different and give it a slightly different reading each time. But any difference is insignificant in the big scheme. Try and get it much closer without refining the methodology closer and you are just going to be chasing your tail as every time you remove it to adjust the shims the magnet will be placed on a random three high spots and the measurement will change again.

TonyRule
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You know, most videos like this on Youtube are beyond terrible, but yours is VERY well done sir. Thanks for posting this.

bobbyboykin
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Me: a 16 year old kid who was bored so I decided to pull out a perfectly fine running differential out of my 1949 Chevrolet just to see what it looked like. It fell on my chest and caused a very loud grunt. OK, looks good, slam it back together and what were those funny looking looking slotted bearing caps for? No worries...What's that loud whine on acceleration? Next stop an auto repair shop and the release of some hard to come by cash for the repair. Shied away from rear end work all of my life since then. This video gives me hope! Thanks, Eric.

michaelmiller
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First video on this I’ve been able to stay to the end and understand! I wish this tool was not so damn expensive for a backyard mechanic like me. I’ve tried to see if there is a loner I could get at my local automotive supply but no luck. I’m doing a Dana 30, and I’m just gonna go by the old shim stack to start with and do it the old-fashioned way with backlash and pattern measurements.

dkhallal
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Hey Eric, 04 Super duty again, the gentleman that lent this tool dropped it off and didn't have time to explain it. Went camping for 2 weeks...so perfect timing again for me thanks to you! Just got all the parts in today and going to hit in am. In the driveway weather permitting over in uconn, ct. Thanks brother...btw, chipped ring and pinion, cracked yoke, frozen u joints and wasted carrier bearing, and with brakes frozen pins so only caliper pistons hitting the rotor...could have had a bad day but got real lucky

richardmitchell
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Thank you for this video! I refer to it everytime i setup gears as a refresher.
I too was reading my small dial incorrectly Im glad you mentioned it.

Rokcrler
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Your the Only person who does it the way I do by using a special setup bearing! Much Much better. I honed about .0005" which is the normal interference fit for a steel pressed fit part. I also have a depth gage.

jimsperlakis
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Great tutorial video on pinion gear depths... This is going to be my first rodeo on my rear differential build on my 94 TA..

keilylmm
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Great info well explained and clear details on all of your videos I do appreciate you shearing this type of I know that you’re helping a lot of viewers like me keep up the good work

crispuloguerrero
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The Block calls " 1 2 3 block", they are precision group to 1 inch 2 ich and 3 inch. And mostly it's for cheching the hight or use as of a precision spacer.
You can get different sizes as well like 2 3 4 or 3 4 6. And you can buy them from any machine shop tool supplies for cheaper prices.

jhaghverdian
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It's a 123 Block. 1"x 2" x 3" block for calibrating your depth and outside micrometer. Thank you for your videos.

mikefranklin
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Thank you for the information! Rebuilding my Jeep and installing new ring and pinions in front and rear.

ibuildengines
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thanks man i appreciate this video i bought one of these gauges at a swap meet that was very gently used and complete but didn't know how to use it till a watched this video .wish others teaching car guys would be more simple on explaining instead of trying to be funny and confusing .did my first rear diff and wallah it freaken works great

jessierubio