Why Lipo C Rating DOES Matter! ZOP 40C Vs CNHL 100C - 1500mAh 3s

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If You Don't Think The C Rating of a Lipo Matters, watch this CNHL Black Series 100C Lipo hand the ZOP 40C a Big Bag of Lithium Pie! And it's Cheaper!

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A lot of people saying similar things so a little more

This video was not planned to be a 'Zop Vs CNHL' it was just going to be a 3s Speed Run, but I realised I had the Zop as well so thought I'd give it a test against the CNHL. I'm aware that the Zop at 1500mah 40c should only be good for around 60 amps anyway, and I pushed it further than that. But regardless it 'should' be able to out perform a 2s Run by more than a few MPH. The CNHL is cheaper than the Zop, and the quality is clearly better. Is 40c Vs 100c a fair comparison side by side?.... probably not, but you can see the huge difference it makes using a better matched/suited Lipo for the electronics.

A few are saying they have had no issues with their Zops, and I am sure that's correct, but I am almost sure you'll see a performance increase with a better quality Lipo. I got 61 mph from my Vorteks with a CNHL, and have seen others get Mid 50's on lesser Lipos. I've also done lots of testing on some Tamiya speed runs years ago, and the difference in performance can be quite surprising.

Anyway.... hopefully this video has helped some of you understand a little more about C Ratings. And as for the ESC... the Motor is capable of pulling more than 60 amps..and the cNHL Lipo is capable of delivering more... so the poor ESC had no chance :)

I'll get a 3s 100C Zop and check my 'assumption'. And later on in the week I have another 'told you so video' with my FTX DR8, I'm sure that will ruffle a few feathers haha

TomleyRC
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I’m having flashbacks with that esc catching on fire lol. I can’t believe the difference in power. That’s cool that you had two batteries with the same mah to conduct that test accurately. Thanks for another great episode.

derricksazrc
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That’s a huge difference, the good battery makes the cheap battery look like it’s not even charged. I don’t know a lot about the Lipo batteries so that’s good information to know . Good video Phil .

ericwood
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I've never noticed any difference with c rating and most companies just make up the c rating anyway

KevinTalbotTV
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I have a ZOP 3s 6000mAh at 100c lipo battery.
Not had any problems with it so far, but it is the first 3s I have, was running a 2s at 25c before. The difference between the 2 are completley night and day.
Loving ya watchin your videos (learn so much from your video's)

chrislongton
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I also used a higher c grade lipo on mine, it also ruined my esc😆 CHNL batts are on sale now. Thanks Tomley👍😊👍

R-EVLMNKY
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Isn't it mah X c rating = amps.
1500mah 1.5x40=60amp 1.5x100=150amp which is ok if you have a high burst amp draw say 60amp with burst of 180amp but I bet that ESC is 60 amp with bust amp of 80a So yeah it's kind of important to match your battery with your system.

jayhow
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The weight of a battery is usually a good indication, from experience normally the heavier the battery the better it is, internal resistance plays a part as well.

Luke-entk
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As someone who uses Larger FPV drones, the disscussion on C rating is often that it can never be trusted as "honest" even on high end Lipo's.I guess At the end of the day "you get what you pay for", CHL blacks are Fantastic, CHL whites are also fantastic, and I honestly cant tell the difference other than the blacks are more "consistant" between Packs. I honestly think the blacks are the best power/quality/Price you can get.

MrJasonodonnell
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Very interesting. I must admit that I have a couple of 2S ZOP LiPos which are pretty underwhelming.
I suppose the answer is to buy from a reputable hobbyshop, and not from the cheapest seller on ali express!

stuartmcnamara
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Yea it matters. Supposedly on the WLTOYS 144001 esc, you can run them on 3s as long as it's 25c or less. I tried mine with a 50C and it didn't burn up right away so that's a good sign.

I've already replaced the stock esc though. Got an 80a brushless esc on the way.

J.C...
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I also run a D7 and agree it doesn’t get much love. It’s big enough to race over most surfaces and pretty quick for a cheap, stock beast. It does handle like poo though, so that may be a reason why people stay away; but for the money it’s pretty ace and the livery is cool. After seeing this I might go buy parts to tighten it up and drop in a waterproof brushless combo

ngtvinfluence
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Wow what a massive difference between the two batteries every one should take note and buy better As always your video's are awesome cheers

davidboyes
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I got a 4000mah 4s as one of my first batteries for racing 1/8 scale and I must say it was one of my most powerful and low IR packs that I had for awhile. After I got some proper 4s lipo. I kept it and let a buddy use it and he somehow cut every balance wire while it was in his car 😢 but it would get 10 mins in a main. And had a lot of punch I can't remember the c rating but it was like like 40 or 50 or less. Cool video 👍

RcOffroad
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I used the zop batteries in 4s form when I was flying drones and they felt like decent battery's that took a real battering!

benjoseph
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Had the same thing got a good deal on two turnigy graphene 90c 2s packs and they so much more punch than the florean 50c 3s packs they were replacing! Zip tie miracle fix too the rescue! 😁👍

paulmcnamara
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Nice that you demonstrate the actual meaning of the C ratings, but I think that doesn't justify bad mouthing the lo-end battery that you picked. They (Zop) have a high discharge line also, +100C etc. Great video anyways, as always :)

rokkiheebeli
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I noticed that my CNHL's all have lower IR per cell than all of my other brands when they were new!

NayburhoodSnipa
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I think it's very important to include a little disclaimer about C ratings. Every brand is vastly different when it comes to C ratings because of the lack of regulation, and so comparing a 40C of one brand to a 100C of another brand really doesn't mean a whole lot. It's all about the honesty of each brand. I like to look for the lowest and highest C rating claimed by any brand I'm interested in, and that will give me a gauge of the quality of each battery. E.g. if there's a 20C, 40C, and 60C offering, I'll know the 40C is not their worst but also not their best, regardless of the true C rating.

Spaniard
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I'm no expert but my understanding is this: C rating does matter if the bottleneck on your setup is the ability to draw power from the battery. You also need to bear in mind what your ESC is rated to handle (eg, 60A) and how fast your motor is. Too low a C rating and you can damage the capacitors on your ESC over time, ... too high a C rating and a high Kv motor will cook your ESC quick by drawing too much from the battery (some of which will be converted into heat). It comes down to understanding your setup which is part of the fun of the hobby for me. Side note as well: don't always trust the C rating printed on the side of batteries. Cheap brands or well-used/mistreated batteries can have (usually) lower values than they claim.

forgetfulLlama