SYMPTOMS OF A BAD ECM (ENGINE CONTROL MODULE)

In this video, you will learn 4 symptoms of a bad or failing engine control module. Watching this video will help you diagnose to see if it's time to replace your engine control module. This video will also help you understand how an engine control module works and its purpose. Symptoms you might be experiencing are a no start, loss of acceleration, engine stalling, shifting problems, and a check engine light. Some of the codes you might experience are P0600, P0601, P0602, P0603, P0604, and P0605.
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[thepseudomasterchef]

If one is watching this video, chances are they aren't having a monumental day..lol..

[talukdershakilahmed]

You are awesome! Did diagnosis for my harrier no code but sugg. Electrical
Jackpot, my car has Loss of acceleration + bit hard shift.Oh! Lot of love from Bangladesh.
May lord God restore all success and happiness to you❤

[marleygehl]

This video literally just explained everything that is wrong with my car thank you so much bro

[ParlayDemonz]

Spent too much money on the wrong things, thanks for this video! Going to get the ECm checked and replaced

[charlesdowns]

i changed ecm+cts+maf+fpr+o2 both sensors+ exhaust system+fuel filter+plugs+wires. finally running great.

[mannycolon]

Bro my car probably has every light on 😂😂😂 looks like Christmas in my car 🚘

[Brew]

Quite interesting..I have all that you described in the video! I own a 05 Explorer 4.6 with 260k.. I still have another 40-90k left on that truck!
Thanks this has been helpful.

[jerrykey]

Basically if you have a throttle performance problem linked to a bad computer, you could possibly just maybe experience shifting problems. The first thing to do is check power & ground, then check your communication wires. If a module isn't out-putting the right voltage then it most likely has failed. It's a good idea to run a wave pattern test on speed/timing sensors before replacing them. A lot of mechanics replace sensors without first checking their signal. Even more, mechanics that have been doing this for 40+years replace modules on a whim. Every module fails for different reasons, that's why sometimes they're hard to diagnose. 10 years mechanic here

[dntlss]

Excellent video, remember this, the newer your car is the more unlikely scenario that your ECM is bad unless it was in a flood or some catastrophe like that, a lot of ECM's have capacitors in them and capacitors have a lifespan like everything else, some of these capacitors control or "help" the processors make decisions and if they are leaking their guts out (which they do as they age) then you start having problems, they start minor and get worse as they get older and leak some more, this usually happens 10\15 years or so in the life of the car, less these days because the electronics are cheaply made.

These problems need to be addressed promptly as the stuff they leak is corrosive to the board and what started as a simple problem will take out a nice chunk of the board overtime and cost you much more in the end, the only way to find out about this is to have a visual look at your ECM, you dont have to be a scientist or some super duper electronics specialist to conduct a visual inspection, it will be screaming at you as soon as you see if you have been replacing things you thought were bad and have checked and double checked everything and you still have issues more than likely its your board.

[theartist]

Simple and to the point. I think this is the problem I’m experiencing with my 2004 jeep. I heard that Jeep’s are bad about that. I’m driving and stall out. It’ll start back up, after a time but I’ve changed the TPS, the coil packs, the oil sending sensor and still my jeep dies, randomly! I’m so frustrated.

[armo_mafioso]

Perfect breakdown for the diagnosis. I have a question regarding electrical diagnosis. Took my Volvo to a few mechanics, all with another outcome.

Draining of battery until about 10.33V even just quick stopping for gas, therefore always needing to boost. The computer showed up with pages of codes, though they are incorrect, as everything is properly functioning. Could it be the computer module that is malfunctioning with codes and battery drain, OR is the less than a year ago bought battery defective with a dead cell that causes these malfunctions? The dead cell could also explain why it does not drain to zero, rather 10.33V.

My diagnosis has now fallen to this conclusion regarding my Volvo s80 2009. Thank you for any input or comment

[danielg]

This video was so helpful I had no idea what the ecm code on my car was, and this video describes all the symptoms my car has. Awesome video, well done. 💯

[JohnEBlaze-owtp]

I went through this with my 2011 Altima right before Christmas of 21. It took me a couple of weeks to make the educated guess that my ECM was bad. It kept throwing P0705 Shift Range sensor but I pur 2 new ones on it and didn't fix it. I even did the multimeter pin test someone recommended on all 3 and they passed so after much research I got one from a place online (cheaper than going to Nissan) when I got it all installed the car wouldn't run.
I called them, they asked me to see if I can find out why it's not running. I said way ahead of you, it's not getting fire to the plugs. So they sent me a shipping label and asked me to send both of mine back so they could clone the original and flash theirs and send it back. When I got them back it worked.
I never had another problem until yesterday. I went somewhere and when I went to go home, it's in limp mode again just like last time. When I checked the code, same damn code P0705😡 I still had a new switch and just for aguement sake I tried it and just like last time, I think it screwed my ECM again. It's only been a year and a half since I fixed this and about 4000 miles (my car only has 60 000 miles on it and I bought it new) at this point I'm ready to soak it in gasoline and burn it to the ground, I'm not gonna keep fixing the same problem at the ridiculous expense that frequently. Bought it brand new and these problems are getting ridiculous. I'll NEVER own another Nissan again, I don't give a damn if they paid me to take a truck load of them.

[RD-xhss]

Man thanks for all that. I have a 91 LS 400 and I've had engine stalls and loss of power/acceleration just out of nowhere. Now I have something to fix this problem. 🤞 appreciate the video. Good work. 👊

[CheapyB]

Manual transmission being shifted was a bad clip choice when talking about a transmission control module not working properly. Manual trans shift points are determined by the driver, not a TCM. Thx for the video🤘

[MrMooCow]

This is describing almost exactly the problem I'm experiencing except for the shifting problems.
Engine light code reads as an oxygen rich problem, but after switching out the ignition coils, spark plugs, both oxygen sensors, air filter, and also checking for air leaks...the problem persists.
Then i remember getting a high pressure car wash, and water was leaking into the driver compartment. Thats when all the problems began with engine light, reduced power light, and traction control lighs all turning on....This is most likely the problem.

[ausielad]

Never had those problems with my 69 GT, still going great to this day, so they improved cars did they?

[JoshuaGuerrero-fidi]

Wow . Wish I would’ve seen this video sooner . Now the car won’t even start and these are all the issues I had up to this point . I changed so many other things and spent money on so many other parts .

[nathantondee]

2009 Kia Sorento, check engine light came on months prior to this: had occasional symptoms of possible clogged catalytic converter or even maybe fuel pump issues, drove it home one night, no new issues, next morning it crunk up but wouldn't go in reverse and acceleration in drive was very minimal and no power. Drove about 4 miles and it cut off, popped hood and seen that the transmission fluid and blown back out the dipstick, added more fluid, cut it off and back on and it was as if nothing had happened at all. Drove about 2 miles to store, got gas, drove about 1/8 of a mile and there was a grinding sound if you will, car cut off and would not start back up (acted like it had a dead battery) I let it roll in neutral to my yard, where it remains. It wouldn't crank back up then, 6/7 hours later I try to crank again and it would as long as I sit in the gas pedal. I check and confirm all fluids are good and leave it be for the night. Next morning it cranks up with no problem at all but now when I put it in gear it won't move, revs up, but in no gear will it move... Any advice on what I have going on here?

[RideshareOtter]

Could a bad ECM also cause traction control to switch off, cruise control to not respond and power steering to freeze up on slow turns?