Magicycle Brake Upgrade - Juin Tech R1

I install Juin Tech R1 cable actuated hydraulic calipers on my Magicycle to see if it offers better braking performance.

[brucehutcheson]

I bought a pair of cable actuated Catazer hydralic brakes for about $26 on Amazon that didn't include the other hardware that you got and couldn't use. Got the same results on my Himiway Cruiser as you did and mainly got rid of that noise caused by the brake pad dragging while riding. Much smoother stopping with a slight gain in braking efficiency. Thanks for posting your great videos!

[johnh.miller]

Installed the Zoom HB-100 MTB cable actuated hydraulic calipers on my Magicycle for a cost of $50.00 on Amazon and the work great! No more squeaks and bike stops much better. I was able to reuse the stock Magicycle brackets and bolts, however the kit did come with new ones.

[Altema]

The advantage is that the hydraulic pads usually apply pressure from both sides. On most mechanical calipers, the outside pad pushes in, and flexes the rotor inward until it meets the inside pad. Hopefully the performance stays the same when they get a few miles on them. I had the Catazer hydraulic calipers, and they worked great at first. However, they got progressively mushy and ineffective, then started leaking. The company would not stand behind their product, so I threw the brakes in the trash.

I agree that the hybrid cable pull/hydraulic caliper brakes are quieter, and the good ones work a bit better. But that much money for a little better performance makes me think that full hydraulic brakes are the way to go. Let us know when you go that route, and thanks for the video!

[SMG-lzzq]

I definitely like these how to videos. It's good seeing you in action. I thought about getting the Juin Tech brakes but haven't pulled the trigger on it yet. For that price, it makes me think twice about getting them. Maybe in the future I might. Great video!

[markburton]

don't forget to to re crimp some replacement ferules on the end of your brake cable to keep them from unraveling

[Tony-ijzx]

Great review friend. Gives me the confidence to attempt a caliber change out. Keep those vids coming.

[lonestartex]

Thank you for sharing :-) very helpful to us MC owners!

[flysteve]

I did the same swap on my Rad Rhino (Rover in the States) except I used the M1 set. I used the original spacers and bolts so didn't have the same issues as you did. My thoughts mirror yours, Quiet smoother braking but stopping distance was maybe only slightly better. However the reason I changed over was to do away with the constant adjustments needed on the original calipers, plus I didn't like the idea of the flexing of the rotors.

[nwmetalbug]

Might be a good option for my Himiway if I ever need to upgrade the brakes although noisy they stop fine now. Thanks for the video anyway.

[edsanchez]

GEE CITIZEN WHAT A BIG BUDGET YOU HAVE, DID THE SWAP $50 X-TECH ON EBAY FOR MY HIMIWHY STEP THRU🤣😜😎HAPPY TRAILS!!!

[RobertHolak]

You should try the M1 instead of R1. R1 is designed for lighter road bikes. M1 does better on heavier mountain and e-bikes.

[Bxyou]

Nylon Washers. When you are adjusting your brakes in and out to make the brakes centered on your particular bike you need washers. There is a lot of pressure being applied to both sides of the rotor as well and the stress applied with regard to stopping the rotors forward movement. The caliper needs to; first of all be centered properly. Some brakes only allow the outside pad to move in. Others make both sides move in at opposite directions. In order to reduce the bend on the rotor and pad wear down.. You need washers. Metal washers won't allow any sideways movement. Thereby, one pad on one side of the rotor will wear faster. By using nylon washers, you allow the caliper and rotor to float ; it's the only way I can think to put it . You minimize the forward and sideways pressure on your rotor and the pads. The brakes adjust to the twist and turns exerted on both the calipers and the brake. A little Give Goes a Long Way. You're asking a lot from your brakes. They could mean the difference between life and really bad stuff. You need to understand that your brakes and rotors don't just move In two or three directions.
A Little Give Goes a Long Way. This is true all around us. Flexibility. Parts need some give and take.

[alphonsotate]

The wrench is called a ball hex key wrench

[alien]

I installed Juintech M1 calipers on my early Magicycle Cruiser before riding it for the first time. Neither of the spacers that came with the kit were suitable as they appeared to be made for a side mounting application. So I used the spacers that came with the bike. Big mistake.

With the stock Magicycle spacers, the Juintech calipers ride too high on the discs. It's not enough to be real noticeable unless you're looking for it. The mismatch lets the brake pad's friction surface hang off the outer edge of the discs by about .025". Shimano makes spacers that seem to fit nicely and they position the caliper so that the wear pattern on the disc is in the right spot. They call it: 'Shimano F180P/P2 Disc brake adapter" on Amazon. About 14 bucks apiece.

In addition, it looks like Magicycle didn't put Loctite on the front brake disc screws, which all fell out and let the disc get bent. (They had lots of liquid Loctite on the rear disc screws though.) Since I was having to get a disc, I replaced the front and back with Tektro discs. They are a bit thicker but still fit the calipers. They also have less scalloping around the outer edge of the discs.

I replaced the oddly worn brake pads with ceramic ones from Gekors. They seem to stop decently and aren't real noisy. Time will tell.

While I was messing with the front rotor, I noticed that the front wheel bearings felt ugly. Turns out that they were just way too tight.

[michaelsprinzeles]

If I'm not wrong the M1 is for MTB and the R1 for road bikes. I hear there's no significant difference.

[skaybaltimore]

Thanks! I had heard about these and was interested. I have a little Zhengbu K6 and the mechanical brakes work okay and I've managed, miraculously, to eliminate the squeal from the front brake. But thinking ahead to when I'll need to replace the pads I was wondering if these Juin Tech hybrid calipers would work for me. (Checking on Amazon my hunch is that the R-1's are for "road" bikes and the M-1's are for mountain bikes. Other than that I don't know if/how they're different.) They're not cheap but I like the K6 and think these might be worth the investment. (NOTE: I saw someone ask where to get replacement pads for these and the answer seems to be Bolton Bikes. I don't know if anyone else carries them but Bolton Bikes does.) Happy trails.

[victorkan]

adding a new complete set with levers will eliminate the cutoff sensor

[ervrt]

Boss I hope you can answer this. May I know the width of the caliper? My current caliper is hitting the spokes because of its width. Planning to switch to Juin Tech r1

[theallmightyisblack]

Hey CitizenCycle have you ever heard of the Ristretto 303 FS it's like a Ariel Rider Grizzly on steroids

[bebo]

You can upgrade to full hydraulic brakes system for similar price range or tektro for extra $100