How To Align Track Over Baseboard Joints - Model Railway Tutorial

How to align track over a baseboard joint on your model railway - Tutorial

If you've ever needed to know how to align tracks across baseboard joints then this is the tutorial for you. If (like me) you're building a portable or exhibition style layout that needs to come apart then making sure trains run smoothly across the joints between baseboard is absolutely crucial. It can also be useful for permanent layouts too though where the railway crosses in front of a doorway and you want a section that hinges up to allow access.

In this tutorial I'll show you the technique I use to ensure tracks maintain their alignment no matter how many times you dismantle and assemble the layout. I'll also cover how to connect the two sections electrically too as well as sharing some tips on how to blend the scenery together to make the baseboard joints almost invisible!

Products Used:

Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
01:43 - Removing Sleepers
03:10 - Brass Screws
05:10 - Soldering The Rails
07:18 - Cutting The Rails
08:28 - Power Across Baseboards
11:27 - Ballasting Technique 1
13:51 - Ballasting Technique 2
15:07 - The Reveal & Testing

Thanks for watching! 😃

[riklund]

Marvellous!A very clear and easy to follow explanation.
You mentioned about using a small regular hammer here(rather than a track pin hammer). Do you have or is it a possiblity to do a video about using diy tools and equipment (eg car body filler etc) on a model railway? I'm personally a firm believer in being as economical as possible in railway modelling as it is all too easy for costs to skyrocket when using specific railway items.
I understand fully that you specialise in quality, fine detail models!

[quarryjunction-]

Im building an N Guage layout and like others I tried copper plates, however made a major hash of it. After watching this video I popped out to get some brass screws and tested your method on a scrap bit of track and a screw clamped into a helping hand. Worked perfect so tomorrow with sort the track joints between my two boards, thank you

[LemartesLogistics]

This turned out to be the video I never knew I needed. That's my weekend plans sorted

[AngelusGB]

I’m about to make my first ever layout. My first ever model railway. And it needs to be modular! And done in a short time. Yup. Christmas. However, all the fancy stuff (okay painting track and train stock weathering) I have decided I can do after Christmas!
I wanted a layout, that could be modular, (your videos are awesome!) with some lighting, and two ovals (I’m using the Hornby trakmat extensions with the pack oval so no tricky track planning until I expand - which I will as it is super addictive. I was warned!)

My main concern after electrics (I can wire a house but the language for model railway electrics had me somewhat confused 😆)

Then my next worry was ‘how do you protect the rails on the edge of the board’ I didn’t really want to leave them as is if I moved it (high breakage/damage chance 😐)
BUT I wasn’t convinced any form of cutting of track was allowed.

In short I thought cut the track the world will end and all the research will be for nought.

Then I found this video and now I know it’s allowed, the train will still run (I’m doing the same as you with the bus line - bus line had me baffled for a while I even asked Alexa @ one point!) and I won’t have made a mess of it!

I had no clue how. As said I am brand new (as in the plan started end of Oct) though I’ve wanted one for years now.

Electrics was a massive concern as I want to give my layout the best possible chance to have a good solid basework. Plus I don’t want to blow myself up.

Thanks so much for having made this video and all the other videos you share!

🌟🙌🏻👍🏻🌟✌🏻

Angel.

[EmperorsPath]

Another great update! I like the nod to the big hammer too! (you do what you like! It's not their railway!)

[attilatoth]

7:31 I do not know too much about railway modelling, but I would try two things to improve the cutting:
1. Cut first, push the rails closer to reduce the gap then fix them to the board. If you worry about the alignment after the cutting, you can do it with each rail one by one. So while working on the left/right rail, the other keeps the track in place.
2. Cut in 45 degree to reduce the effect on the wheels. This may break some compatibility rules with other people's boards, but most cases that is not an issue.
I think the above technics would reduce the sound of wheels running over the gap, but let me know if I am wrong.

[dankeleher]

Amazing, just what I was looking for. Thanks so much. Keep up the great work 👍 👏

[tubularap]

Great idea, to use screws to prop up the rails, and solder onto them.

[lilchris]

Nice video mate, I am on N-Gauge and I use this technique on my modular layout. Like the tip about the masking tape, not thought about that one. A couple of tips if you want a even closer join with the rails is 1/ place card between the two base boards before laying the track, 2/ use a larger thin cutting disc so you cut the track vertical with the Dremel. When you split the boards remove the card and when you place them back together the joint is even smaller.

[richardclowes]

Great video and well presented. What fittings did you use to locate the boards together. They looked rather like dowels and holes but of a metal substrate. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog.

[andrewl]

Hello! I'm actually looking for the video you're referring to in this video. "In previous videos, I've gone over how actually to align the baseboards, " but I can't tell where to find that video or what it's called. There's no link or card or whatever with where to find it. Can anybody help me out? I might not be able to use the method, as I haven't actually used wood on my layout, it's all foam with just a thin layer of hardboard at the bottom. I just want to find some different methods.

[willbreckinridge]

I swear, it's like you can read my mind. I've been wondering about just this very thing for the past few days. Very helpful video!😃

[JaysTrain]

Very nice, I am using a very similar method on my layout now. Glad to see I had the same idea as another great modeler.

[johnland]

Drive your track pins into the baseboard how you
I hate hitting my fingers messing about with track pins, and have the pin push device, but have switched to very fine screws. Off eBay listed as track screws, pre drill with a 1.5 mm, and then screw down with a tiny cross head screwdriver. The advantage is the track pressure onto the cork can be adjusted, and alterations are easy, just unscrew.

[EnzedderEntertainment]

Thank you for this. I’m making my first permanent layout (with a heck of a lot of help from your videos) and this will help me line parts up as I ballast and decorate them separately - I guess it’s just my style to avoid ruining the entire layout at once.

[seagraverailwaysandmodels]

I made the mistake of ballasting with two baseboards connected… that wasn’t a good decision! Like your masking tape technique.

[LetsGo_]

Thank you for the video. This has arrived at the perfect time. I am going to try your technique for my lift up section. Pleased it worked well and once again, thank you.

[adam_fordham]

A very helpful video, didn't think of using brass screws so I will definitely give that a try and a great way of ballesting the ends if the boards as well 😀

[kandles]

Perfect timing! .. I'm just about to order 4x sections of plywood to begin a 4-board L shaped layout .. this tutorial has covered one of my main concerns .. my genuine thanks to you :)

[petert]

In my (in)experience (so if wrong it's all my fault!) it helps to tin the rail and screws with 'acid' flux. That suggestion usually brings down a fusillade predicting corrosion. Seems not to happen if the join is cleaned after with metho and water. If the idea still offends, tin the components away from the layout and wash properly, or use something like the American 'LaCo' flux which quoting from the bottle is ' lead free, non acid and non toxic'; and again from the bottle '1. apply flux, 2. solder, 3. wipe with wet cloth'. CHECK THE SPEC SHEET for safety, and don't breathe - tin outside in the open air.
The idea is to tin with 'wet' solder, leaving a very thin layer which will easily bond with other tinned surfaces. In general once the parts to be joined are pre-tinned they do not need tinning again to join. Something like you are doing is thus easier and protected from 'cold' joins.
Don't forget to use a damp cloth to clean the iron, and re-tin occasionally. Sometimes 'tip refresher' helps - try your local electronics shop.
The safety point is interesting. It really does help to read the spec sheets of the products we use. Having said that, we use a lot of polymers, especially in scenery. An awful lot of them don't set completely enough to lose their smell. It does make one wonder about on-going toxicity and ALLERGIES.
Thanks for your efforts.