Building a submarine and diving to MAX DEPTH (PT1)

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0:00 - Upgrades necessary
1:32 - Tether
7:00 - Endcaps
12:20 - Roadtrip
13:49 - THE MINE
15:40 - In the mineshaft
22:48 - Results

____________
Music:

License ID: XQZV1W9O5gO

♪ Sunset (Prod. by Lukrembo)

[leonides]

I like how the controller is better than the one they used on the ocean gate sub.

[JayManty]

Good to see you're using a Playstation controller as a steering device. State of the art for actual submarines these days.

[xddcce]

yo that thumbnail legit looked like a monster from a horror movie 💀

[Marcox]

It's such a delight to see this kind of projects and documentation about them. This is how engineering should be sold as some way of living, taking science foundamentals and turning them into fun experiments.
Greetings from Mexico!

[williamjacques]

Quick idea for the pressurised tube, fill it with non condutive oil. Therefore the tube shouldn't really be able to colapse

[BartJBols]

You can also improve the flashlights by angling them away from the camera direction. this will prevent over-illuminating what is directly in front of you, but still allow light to bounce around and illuminate what you are looking at ahead.

[SarahKchannel]

A tip for the cable. The cable should be made naturally slightly positive buoyant. Not too much or the drone will struggle to dive. You can do this by adding a strip of neoprene tape ever 2.5m, secure it with clear heat shrink and while at it - put a distance indicator under the heatshrink. 2.5, 5m, 7.5m, 10m etc.. It will help you keeping the cable away from the drone. Also the distance indicator help to just get a non electronic idea of distance or depth.
Ideally this markings are something very luminous, like neon color.

[SigmaShortsPL]

Allegro i wszystko jasne. Powodzenia chłopaki! Fajny content robicie!

[fridaycaliforniaa]

Funny how YouTube made me become an expert in deep sea exploration in just a few days ^^

[Sebastian]

A fellow (mechanical) engineer here: next time when you're 3D printing, try testing how the printing orientation might influence the maximum pressure the caps are capable of withstanding (if you still wanna use FFF) Additionally, in order to avoid these issues in the future and don't invest too much time in prototyping and further testing, go right ahead and use SLS instead, vacuum it and apply epoxy (just like you did) and cure it. This might not be even necessary for SLS, but just for experimenting. That'll avoid any structural problems. To top it off, try using an additional plastic lid that will distribute the pressure axially a little better and provide better water protection. I have the feeling the lid experienced all the pressure and that was one of the reasons why it detached so often. Do a little FEM simulation where the maximum concentration of stresses might be taking place and see how you can reinforce it a little. I wish you lots of luck!

[MaxLai_]

Submarine controlled with a game controller... Wonder how that'll turn out.

[BartJBols]

The issue with loop radius in the glass fiber is that it becomes more an issue once your cable is longer. Every tight turn you have cuts a serious distance off your loop.

[calummacgregor]

For the cable, be sure to use a central cable that is thick so tension anywhere is a long the central cable rather than the fiber optic cable.

Also, try to have the spool go directly over the dive area next time to ensure it has minimal chance to get caught on something.

[ediblepigz]

I work with fiber optic cable like everyday. In my experience they are very easy to break due to how thin the ones I use are. The ones you guys had was actually pretty thick looking

[enoh]

there is a degree of irony here, given the current loss of the Titan Submersible. Your work is brilliant! I would suggest changing the solitary fiber cable to a true umbilical cord that is neutrally buoyant

[Cheeky_Goose]

I do recommend printing your cap in the vertical direction instead of the horizontal, so that it doesn't separate along the layer lines. Also, there are two things you guys can try. 1) try printing in Nylon which is more challenging to print with, but the layer adhesion is good. 2) Try using Cura's mold-making feature to create a mold for the epoxy so you can make an end cap entirely out of epoxy. Would this solve your problem?

[baraBober]

I hope you read this. Some fancy watches are filled with oil which allows them to withstand very high pressure. You could fill the submarine with mineral oil as well. Your electronics would still operate just fine, since it's not conductive, and there would be no need to 3D print really thick caps, and use thick cylinders as long as there's no air inside

[dominikzz]

Na prawdę mam nadzieję że dostaniecie się do światowego mainstreama DIY youtube. Bardzo fajnie się ogląda, jesteście naturalni i ciekawi. Powodzenia :D

[caleb]

You could fill the cylinders with mineral oil. should help with the compression.

[BraydonBlanchette]

Can we appreciate that really sick transition he did at 8:23 he combined the time lapse footage, button overlay of real time, reaching for the 3-D printed part