How NOT to Big Wall 2.0 - Better climbing beta when climbing El Capitan in Yosemite

[matthewkelly]

After hours and hours of researching proficient aid tactics/ anchor management, this is by far the best, and most understandable information on the web. Great work!!

[tommuhlemanjr.]

That’s the best anchor setup and haul bag and lead rope management system I’ve ever seen. Swapping ends of the rope and not having to flake the rope 2-3 times is brilliant. I agree that no one should do anything they see on YouTube, but I’ll just pretend that I thought of some of your ideas myself and when I suggest them to my climbing partners, I’ll be the expert, lmao.... But seriously, thank you both, that was excellent info and video.

[wowheyy]

I have zero experience climbing, but goddamn these videos are fascinating. So informative and well made. Makes me want to get into climbing!

[irakperez]

Ok, your methods combined I find them like a mix of the best (being the best what I think it is the best) from personal experience, books and several videos out there. Prime stuff guys, prime stuff.

[ThNguyen]

I’m no where close to being able to tackle big wall right now but these videos are super cool to watch

[johngo]

Superb video, very nice that you cover pretty much the whole process from start to finish. And yes, the swapping ends of the haul line is a great tip.

[johngo]

Excellent video guys. The tip about swapping the ends of the haul rope is especially helpful. Seems stunningly obvious when you explain it here, but I sure the hell did not figure that out on my first few walls and spent a huge amount of time re-stacking the damm rope. Also, the "unfinished figure 8" is a new one for me as well, that's a good rope trick. Thanks for sharing your tips!

[johnshultz]

Hey hombres!
I enjoyed your video. Cheers. I think you have some streamlined systems there.
My buddy and I ran something similar. But in place of the Quad, we used a Metolius PAS and in place of the sling for the haul line, we used a Metolius Rope hook. The rope hook is totally worth it, as you can easily spin the rope on it for block leading. Very underrated piece of wall kit, IMHO.
By my measurements:24" sling 51 g.; Fish rope bag 171 g; Metolius rope hook 45g!
For the lead line, we don't recoil at the anchor, but use a huge DMM Boa carabiner when following and clip periodic back up loops. We then just clip that Boa to the anchor, and take the loops out as the leader is leading. This is an Andy K. trick that saves a labor intensive step and is quite neat and tidy. You can spin the loops around the big biner, as necessary.
Thanks for the video!
Cheers from Osaka,
John

[merds]

Nice video. I learned the unfinished 8. I noticed the grab handles on your aiders are full strength and actually go around your thin profile/non snagging carabinier. I clip my smallest and lightest Daisy locker there. It gives me more length, it's cleaner, won't accidentally unclip from my tired and worn ladder carabinier and it's easier to escape my ladders if need be. The back up sling for the pig also scares me as I see it becoming fouled as the swivel does it's magic. I simply back my bags to the anchor with the haul line its self after properly docked. My 10th elcap route fell last fall. I haven't repeated any yet. Haven't done the nose yet because I free climb like shit. Thanks for the vid

[MK-YT]

Great visual aid of what to do at the anchors all around. A+. A++ for dog is backed.

[Kbowma]

you should do a video actually showing the process on a actual big wall or you can do one on sleeping on a portaledge

[brianrodman]

That "unfinished 8" was a much appreciated tip - thank you!

[BetaClimbers]

Great video! and beautiful rope management I plan on making a video like this too some time! 🤙🏻

[WilliamsSkilliams]

This is great! Thanks guys! Definitely climbing elcap next month, I think if I watch this a lot and then watch the first video I should be good. I’m sure it’ll be fine!

[phillipbellgreen]

I have used a beefy adjustable daisy for the haul bag docking anchor and really found that helpful.

[eturcios]

I’m just getting into rock climbing how I wish there were actual classes here in Houston, Tx I just joined an indoor rock climbing gym so it’s a start. Love the video

[GavynPendleton]

Great content!! Some of this is pretty useful for normal multi pitching too.

[_oreolife_]

"Im a haul bag" got me laughing for a solid minute

[hughthornbery]

Brilliant video, wish I'd seen this before I tried (and failed) on my first and last big wall!!!

[cameronstoneadams]

Thank you for the education. LOVE the sling in mouth tech.