How to Flash your ECU: Flash Tune ECU Software Explained

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My detailed explanation flashing motorcycle ECU with Flash Tune (FTECU) Motorcycle ECU Software, and how to use the program to flash your motorcycle ECU. This is probably the best ECU Flash software you can buy and it made my Yamaha R1 run stronger and smoother. Sorry for the length, but there is a lot of stuff to go over. If you want your ECU Flashed, this program is as close to GP Tech as we normal riders may ever get.


My Stuff:

2009 Yamaha R1
FlashTuned ECU
AGV-K3 Helmet
Drift Ghost S Helmet Cam w/the Drift wired mic
Bilt Predator Perforated Jacket (red and white)
Sedici Rapido Boots (white leather)
Dainese MIG C2 Gloves
Premier Pro Editig software
Badass Gaming PC (Windows 10)
and of course Dees

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A COMMENT I MADE THAT MIGHT HELP OTHERS THAT WANT TO SMOOTH OUT ON/OFF THROTTLE AND ENGINE BREAKING:....while trying to help ytmikeny (see below comments). "So I had a chance to take a quick look at the Throttle By Wire Maps for your R6. Not sure why there are so many maps (13???) for each mode when you only have 6 gears. Maybe u know? (Edited: I have since found out that there are so many maps to allow you to personalize a ton of maps for each mode and each gear...cool for sure) Anyway, once u figure that out, the throttle control looks to be the same type of throttle % roll on / to amount of gas the engine is getting at any given time. To clarify, the number in each cell in these maps represent the amount of fuel the ECU is sending to the engine based on the throttle position and the RPMs. So this is where u will want to make most of your adjustments to get your bike to feel smoother, including the reduction of engine breaking (oh and yes, turn on "disable engine decel" by making it read true. We do this because we want the ECU to continue providing fuel to the engine, even in decel, if only ever so slightly, as this reduces engine breaking. No fuel equates to engine breaking. A little fuel equates to less engine breaking, the question u have to decide is how much engine breaking do u want because it is all of function of the amount of fuel in each cell in the "Throttle by wire" maps. I chose to only modify the Standard maps and left the other modes (A and B) alone (they are from the TAD Image). So, where to start? In the upper left portion of each of the maps (and again find out why there are 13 maps for each mode), assuming u r adjusting the maps in the Standard mode, start making small adjustments to the cells in the RPM ranges Below 6000 RPM and above 1500 RPM (or what ever your bike is set to idle at) and in the throttle % cells from 0 to 10-12%. U will have to fiddle around with the actual RPM range area (you may have to adjust higher than 6000 RPM) as I am not sure about the R6's power band. The R1 grunts with power from the get go. Regardless, the ideas is to smooth out the numbers in small increasing increments in each of the cells from 0% Throttle to 12% Throttle so as u roll on the throttle the bike doesn't get too much fuel too early. I analysed the amount of change for each cell for each RPM range and made adjustments that I thought were pretty balanced and linear from about 1500 RPMs up to about 6500 RPMs in the cells from 0% throttle to around 12% throttle. Now, for the off throttle engine breaking, the adjustments are in the lower Throttle% ranges, but in the slightly higher RPMs (say 5000-9000 RPMs and less than 10% throttle) you would add small amounts of fuel to the low throttle ranges (in the higher RPMs) in a decreasing but balanced fashion so the bike is getting slightly more fuel, than the stock values, as you slow down/come off throttle and you reduce the % of fuel as you reduce throttle, say from 8% throttle down to 0% throttle. By adding a little more fuel, it will decrease the engine breaking and allow for a smoother "Back on" throttle when you roll back on because the engine is getting more gas to start with as u twist your writs. BE ADVISED THAT "ALL" THE ADJUSTMENTS I AM TALKING ABOUT ARE SMALL AMOUNTS OF FUEL ADJUSTMENTS IN THE RANGE OF .2% of 1%, SO LESS THAN A HALF OF A PERCENTAGE POINT. Start with very small adjustments and then from there add or adjust until you get her perfect. Damn u, now I want to go ride. Let me know when u have adjusted some maps and we can figure out a way to shared them and I will walk u thru this process. Be good and kind bro. Talk to ya soon...La"

IamLaR
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Good shit man thank you. Doin work four years later

NES--
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This video made this process much more enjoyable. Thank you

adventureswithricoashley
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mate if i live in same country, i would find you to shake ur hand, i learnt heaps from ur vids thank u...

jimmyferguson
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Best video I've ever seen on this subject!!!

rhodesoflife
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Thanks for this! I just got the software setup and could tell a huge difference with just the regular "unrestricted" map for my bike (Yamaha MT07). The throttle was still a little jumpy for those on/off transitions and I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do to smooth it out even more now.

bradisbeast
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Dont just randomly adjust the fuel maps because they look choppy. On cars thats not a horrible idea done sparingly, but motos have such a wide rpm range, you end up with harmonics at certain RPM intervals that cause the bike to richen up due to lack of air and will make the map look choppy in those areas. The harmonics are the sound waves bouncing off the intake valves and and causing air to be pushed back out the intake runners. If you know about ram tuning effect with velocity stacks this will make sense to you, but that tuning can only be right in one spot which is why newer stuff has the variable velocity stacks to deal with it. Still, there are going to be spots where those two lengths of stack become 180 degrees out of phase to the incoming air and stalls or reverses airflow till you get out of that spot.

mattnsac
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Fuel offsets are developed based on cylinder design effects such as thermal transfer differences due to cylinder position, coolant flow characteristics  around the subject cylinder, and other such differences between the cylinders etc. However, intake track and head temperature affect atomization which can affect combustion time and flame front geometry and how it changes during and after mixture ignition. On a development engine we would have matched O2 sensors, one for each Header pipe.

F-_Jockey
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Thank you. Need more videos like this.

brett
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Fueling Is different because. Cylinder 2 and 3 run hotter so more fuel to help cool them down

.creedmoorripscreedmoor
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Thank you for taking the time to make this!

helloman
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Great video very clear explanation and yeah I agree with Creedmoor extra fuel for inner or rear cylinders to keep them cooler rather than extra power....keep up the good work !!

johngoode
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Absolutely amazing, thank you so much for sharing!

Ihelpanytime
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Naw man good vid. I have a mt09 with power vision 3 so it a little easier for me. I write tunes with dynojet software and copy to the pv3 and flash to bike. Still new to it so this vid was super helpful

obrider
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i know this video is old but i really appreciate it. very informative. i just got a flashtune bench side kit for my 09 R6. completely new bike. well worth it money.

swingdaddy
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Awesome, informative, and educational video. Thanks bro.

marcelog.
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Excellent video, learnt loads, please continue making more. Subbed

thealleycat
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im writing a similar program my self that read/write the ecu for a small yamaha bike. the problem is that the bike doesnt have afr or lamda sensor and i dont know how to tune it. plus the bike uses speed density not tps for engine load

tougeattack
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Awesome video intro 😂❤️
Can I flash same file on two identical bikes? Or I need to make slight adjustments?

HDPOWER
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they dont seem to support my year. I have a 2009 honda cbr1000rr, stock headers, full length Danmoto sc59. IS there a kit that will work with my bike? I can find a data link cable to a PC but what software should I use? Im hoping to find a popular one that Honda guys use with preset tunes like youre showing us there.

joeydube