NO SPARK! How Do I Know If My Coil / Ignition Module Is Faulty? (DAY 23)

DAY 23 of ⭐30 DAYS OF QUESTIONS⭐ How Do I Know If My Coil / Ignition Module Is Faulty? Steve will let you know!
Click below 👇👇👇 for the links to the other questions...

⭐30 DAYS OF QUESTIONS⭐ - (Links will be updated as the videos are put out)

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[StevesSmallEngineSaloon]

Click below 👇👇👇 for the links to the other questions...
⭐30 DAYS OF QUESTIONS⭐ - (Links will be updated as the videos are put out)

[matopezuta]

Don't forget there are still a lot of older engines out there with points that should be checked before replacing the coil.

[edstraker]

Your channel is hands down, the best on YT for teaching, advising and methodical problem solving. Thanks Steve.

[BjornV]

In the early 2000's, a friend of mine raced Pocketbike competition, in the so-called Proto class.
I helped him with the technique (former car mechanic) before and during the races.
In the Proto class we were allowed unlimited tuning, only the cylinder capacity was not allowed to exceed 50cc. In terms of ignition, we gained a lot of experience back then, and also learned from the mistakes of other riders. We had noticed that the gap between the magneto coil and flywheel was very important. We and others always thought that this gap should be as small as possible, until one day we adjusted this gap with the thinnest paper we could find. The engine sounded more powerful (and also reacted more strongly to the throttle), but the maximum rpm was suddenly more than 2000 rpm lower (normally we had around 15000 rpm, and then suddenly only around 13000 rpm). What we then noticed was that the magneto coil and flywheel were burning hot, and that the plastic of the magneto coil started to smell. Afterwards we adjusted the gap back as before, but we still didn't get back to 15000 rpm, and at high revs the engine started to stutter. After a long search, we replaced the magneto coil, which took away the stuttering, but we still didn't get back to 15000 rpm. When we eventually also replaced the flywheel, we reached 17000 rpm. When we did tests afterwards with the old flywheel and the new one, it turned out that the magnet of the old one had lost strength due to the extreme heat.
Afterwards we learned that the extreme heat development has to do with so-called "Eddy current" which magnets can develop, and that a too small magneto coil gap acts as a brake, and that after a certain time, this causes permanent damage to the magneto coil and flywheel. Afterwards we simply folded print paper double as a gauge and we have not encountered that problem again. The gap also determines the ignition timing to a small extent. With a smaller gap, the spark comes earlier.

[tkskagen]

Simple episodes like this are more "reinforcement" as to why I am a very proud subscriber!

[czellner]

Hello Steve, I just watched this episode. so, the issue I'm having is with Americas Sweetheart John Deere... he has a Japanese Heart. that won't start. (No Spark)
Back Story: my sone gave me a JD RX-73 riding mower. It ran briefly and they would not start. so, he and a "Mower Mechanic" worked on it and it won't start. I am not a dummy to small engines. and I taught my son well. He ended up giving me the mower after replacing the coil & Plug. thinking surely, he over looked something I tore into it. This is a Kawasaki 9 hp motor (Model FC290V). Two things strike me as odd about it. first it has an Igniter....I've not seen that or had issue with on ever. so, I replaced it. My Son replaced the coil, so I Olhmed it out seemed ok but I replaced it anyway because I have noticed an up tik in new parts being bad from the git-go.(Oh BTW, amazon takes back coils) still no spark. the Flywheel is rusty... LOL because it's cast iron. and that happens I know. HOWEVER, the flywheel has a replaceable magnet. (Huh wth why is that?) I did the screwdriver test on the magnet and compared to other mowers, Pressure washer motors and seems fine. still no spark. What I did find odd was on this coil, there was no real adjustment for gap. so, I measured it at .015. still won't spark

In closing two coils, a new igniter, two spark plugs, and with the ground terminal disconnected still no spark. it defies mechanical common sense. replacing the motor is too expensive, when I can pick up another used riding mower for $500 running or not.

What say You?

[mikevanhook]

Right on Steve that's how I do it the only other thing you do suggest it's just double-check the gap between the flywheel make sure nothing's come loose or the Gap hasn't changed as long as you're good that's exactly what I

[randymartin]

I have learned more about small engines from your channel than anywhere else. I guess I have been fortunate in that in my 58 years, other than having to rebuild one carburetor on an old push mower and replacing the deteriorated fuel lines on my chainsaw, I have never had any troubles with my small engines. Other parts of the machines have worn out while the engines were still going. Proper and timely maintenance go a looong way toward ensuring trouble free performance.

[motorcoachtech]

Don’t forget to check the coil mounting posts for corrosion. Clean them up, reset coil gap and recheck for spark. I have had this a couple of times.

[Mechanicturfgear]

Exactly, so easy 👍 liking the 30 day deal. 👏🇨🇦Also check with a know good plug and that the wire end wasn’t pulled off plug inside the boot

[MarkHansen-oc]

Perfect timing discovered no spark yesterday 12.5 Kohler add the Saloon method 2 day with Steve’s guidance ! Lucky Me ! 😊

[jimwetzel]

As a guy I knew used to say, in an automotive context: "There are mechanics, and there are parts replacers."

[iceman]

I had the same problem. No spark. Good coil and spark plug. It turned out that the coil was not 10 thousands of an inch from the flywheel magnet. Easy fix!

[sully]

Thanks Steve, now that was pretty informative, I did not know that you could do that. What a great tip

[AP-jd]

Ya gotta make sure the iron bars have a good ground to the block, i.e., the mounting screws. If it's corroded under the coil and not making good contact with the block you will also get a no spark or very week spark issue.

[markdanielczyk]

Steve and April our small engine saviors!

[kurtsimmons]

Steve can you check the resistance of your coil with a multimeter?

[stevez]

Answering 30 questions in one day is insane! I’m sure you both took a long nap after this marathon😂

[timothydolan]

Great tip about how to isolate a coil. Something I did not know. Thanks again April and Steve, you both are a delight. And the way you present your information makes me feel a bit like I'm standing on the other side of your counter and you are talking to me personally. I am sure other regular viewers feel the same. Always, Thumbs Up!

[Smalltechguy]

Yes Steve, I missed the other days prior. Working a Cud Cadet XT1 with a no spark condition. I cleaned all the rust off them both to include the grounding points. Set the air gap and still nothing. I've not pulled the ground of yet to verify. I also checked the key way just to make sure it didn't jump time and not spark when it's supposed to.