Baseboards Used to Be Difficult

My favorite tips and tricks for how to install baseboards with perfect corners, inside joints, and more! I spent the last week installing custom milled Sapele baseboards and door casing throughout much of my house. However, I have only done paint-grade baseboards prior to attempting this project. So I had to become an expert finish carpenter quickly. Or at least close enough to an expert that people wouldn't judge me when they came over and saw the work of someone who makes their living as a woodworker. These are my favorite tips and tricks to get perfect baseboards, even if you aren't a professional. Check out my blog post for even more tips and tricks that couldn't fit into this video!

Links to items used in this video:

0:00 Intro
0:19 Finish Baseboards Before Installing
0:57 Easy way to find your miter angle
1:50 Measure Trim In Place
2:07 Glue Outside Baseboard Miters
2:52 Sliding T bevel Finish Carpentry
4:24 Coping, The Easy Way
6:15 Adding Cap to Hide Gaps Behind Baseboards
7:15 Fixing Gaps in Baseboard Miters
8:15 Filling Nail Holes In Painted and Stained Baseboards
10:59 Troll of the week

[BlackStang-gnij]

Chicago Local 1 Finish Carpenter. You cope because it adds not only strength but as you show in the video over time with wood movement coped inside corners wont open up like you demonstrate on your 45 degree cut inside corner

[atamagashock]

If I could make a suggestion... when cutting miters for baseboard that aren’t a standard detent (like a 45) it’s better to cut the first piece on that 46 degree and then flip the other piece of base upside down and cut that piece on the same 46 rather than swinging the saw to the 46 on the opposite side. You’re guaranteed to get the same miter by flipping the one side upside and cutting it, rather than hoping you set your saw exactly the same on the other side.

[artac]

For a guy who is an average DIY guy may be a touch below at some and a touch better at others, but actually build houses for a living as a general contractor one of the best trim videos I’ve ever seen

[adamtheroofer]

I know I am late to the game on comments. I’ve built hundreds of houses. The reason I coped inside miters was: 1. It made a nice corner easy to finish. 2. It allowed the wood that was being coped to expand and contract without blowing the seams. 3. For crown moulding it would hold your trim in place while you nailed it.

One of my favorite ways to fill holes was with some dry drywall compound and mixed with filling putty. It would stay pliable longer so you could fill a lot of holes before it dried and it was easy to sand in paint grade materials. Bondo is incredibly hard and hard to sand. I do not recommend doing that unless you need a level 5 finish. I have used bondo to fill seams in large outside trim moldings because you can sculpt it to match the profile and it prevents the seam separating. Great video.

[pawpawstew]

A tip on the paint grade nail hole filling: Bondo works but has a very short working time, meaning you will constantly be mixing small batches as you go along. Instead, use automotive glazing putty. As an example, 3M makes three grades of putty that come in large tubes and don't require mixing. My favorite is their "Acryl Blue Glazing Putty". I actually started using it as a filling putty for building scale models. The "Blue" goes on smoothly and sands to a feather edge. It does shrink slightly, but if you dab a little more on the hole, you're fine. It also sands much easier than Bondo.

[martinjp]

90 degree angles don't exist in nature or in my house, great video.

[MrAntoinecc]

Wow ! I've been a finish carpenter for over 7 years and I actuality learn some tips from your video, thank you, I'll be using them for sure 😊

[RJKYEG]

I painted for a while, we found that we'd have to fill nail holes, patch damage, and of course caulk the top seam and whatever other gaps so pre-painting the first coat was fine but we preferred to do the final coat once they were installed.

[brianfoley]

This is a fantastic video. I'm a DIY/Homeowner and I'm redoing all the baseboard in my home because around these here parts you can't find a contractor (they're all very busy) and to be honest I'm looking forward to it. I purchased all the tools and the wood (hardwood baseboard) and I'm starting right after Thanksgiving holiday. Your video answered a ton of questions...and better still it was understandable and easy to follow. I swear, every issue you addressed is in my home. Thanks for the advice.

[ydnark]

There is a time and place for inside miters, and that is when your installing economy grade painted mdf casings that will be caulked on the top. Cutting the inside miters at 44 will keep the face tight and a small gap at the top where you are caulking anyways. Properly nailed the joint won't move and you can install 40% faster with no visible difference. Definitely not for high quality installations or stain grade material, but there is a time and place. 25 years as a carpenter has taught me that sometimes the best value for a client is not spent coping cheap baseboards. I like your pre glued miters around the end wall, I will definitely try that, I usually only do that for small pieces like behind a bifold door

[Jake-twqr]

I greatly appreciate your patience. I thought I was patient until i saw you using a eye-glasses screwdriver to fill all your presumably thousands of brad holes. i am sure it looks incredible. i would lose my mind trying to do it.

[coreygrua]

I wish I’d seen this a year ago. An outstanding furniture carpenter slips right into being a great finishing carpenter. Despite being disappointed with not having this for my basement, it is fun, even inspiring, to watch. Bravo Cam.

[Davidm]

The tape trick for wood filler is great. 40 years as a carpenter and still learning. Thx

[CyclopsGuitars]

Painters tape over the baseboard before nailing & hole filling is BRILLIANT!!! Love it thanks for the share

[SkinnerOrg]

If you want a perfect color match for filling nail holes grab some of the fine sawdust from the boards you were cutting, mix it with your adhesive (I use slightly diluted carpenter's glue and make a thick paste), fill and sand.

[michelswoodworking]

Another advantage of copes is that you don’t need to be as accurate, specifically on longer pieces. You can cut them 1/16” long or so and flex the board into place. If you tried that with a miter, it’s more likely to dig into the drywall and the insides of the miters won’t line up, resulting in an ugly joint.

[CaleCoast]

Been a finish carpenter since 2003 and avid YouTube enjoyer since 2011! Great video sir! Respect 🙌

[daveproctor]

Great video, thanks. Yes, walls are never straight. I install drywall screws about 1” up from the floor, about every 3’ and especially at the corners. Then I use a plastic straight edge and adjust the screws to the vertical plane of the wall. This keeps the bottom of the baseboard from being pulled in too far. When fitting the corners I will adjust the screws as I am fitting the baseboard for a perfect fit.

[Ragingmarmot]

Can't believe I found this today. On my second stain grade molding project. So many friggin' vids for molding and crown molding, but this is the first video I've found with tips for stain grade. You made my day. I literally just levelled up right now. Subscription entered with a like on the side.

[timothylien]

My cope method is to do a 45 cut opposite of his you would normally do an inside miter, flip the piece upside down and remove the bulk of material with second cut (angle is opposite when you flip), trace profile with side of sharpened pencil, then dremel to the contour. Works awesome. I grew up in a finish carpenter shop and my dad did it more like in the video. I learned the new technique just a couple years ago and it works great, anybody can do it.