After 30 Years I Finally Learned The Best Way To Remove Baseboards!

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DISCLAIMER: This description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and purchase something, I’ll receive a small commission.

Baseboard Sale Update:

I have still not finished removing all the baseboards! I have been side tracked making other videos.

Thanks for watching and helping support the channel:)
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This is awesome!! No screaming, no annoying stupid music, no click baits. This dude deserves an award and a subscribe!

gocyclones
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Tips like these are normally learned at the cost of years of experience or if you are lucky, from a good mentor. Thanks for being a good mentor!

Sylvan_dB
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great tip if demoing a newish build. my homes boards were glued and nailed and screwed and painted over 10+ times

howdareyou
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Great tips...many thanks! The horizontal cut tip is brilliant. Love the door stopper too. Your channel has saved me countless headaches. Much appreciated!

ckf
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Great info. I’m an experienced carpenter, these are great little details. The horizontal knife cut is something I never tried

corcoransullivan
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I came to this video with the attitude that I wasn't going to learn anything new, but you made me eat my thoughts. Thank you.

mrklean
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Good stuff. I use a broad spackling trowel with front edge sharpened to cut the caulk and the pry it out, but the use of the knife to cut the paper and caulking...that will come in handy.

machobunny
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Great technique, thanks for sharing! As a last resort if you have nails sticking out of the wall from the old moulding, you can also hammer them into the drywall.The odds are almost nil that you'll hit the spot that the old nails are at when you add new moulding or re-attach the old moulding

uniblab_
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Great tips. An addition to the Richard red bar is the Richard wall scraper multi tool, sharpen the bevel and using the two of them together, base mouldings and caulking lines don’t stand a chance.

GarySarada
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Hey, loving the channel. Doing trim along my foyer because…wife. Had a bunch of miter cuts on the trim not line up because my walls are wonky in the corners. I’ll be putting what I learned from your videos to work when I actually get time again!

zinithin-
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Super good tips here... love that you get to the point without 20 minutes of fluff.

I use the small pry bar and a Goldblatt trim puller (G02807 I think)... its like the Zenneth, but has a hinge in place of the "bump out" on the blade. IMHO, it seats better and more fully behind the trim, reducing the chance for it breaking.

csimet
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Subscribed ! This guy is awesome and funny .

tracker
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As an industrial tradesman this came naturally to me, but kudos to you to educate those with little experience working in an unrelated profession. 👌

saschapulkowski
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Very helpful video with clear and concise direction and tool recommendations. Thanks!

mv
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Absolutely loved this video!!!! Gotta love a body, that knows what tool is needed, and how to use them!!! You earned an instant follow for this video alone!!!! ❤

TheAngel
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Excellent video and tips! I wish I saw this last year when pulling off all the baseboards to put new flooring in. Luckily I’ll be able to use your tips in the near future. Thanks!!

benb
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I've carried a red bar like that in my tool belt for over 30 years. The one I have today is blue (lost the damn red one last year). The only thing I would add is that that same red bar (blue in my case) is excellent at removing the caulk from the wall and the baseboard. Been using it that way all along. Cheers.

RJazz
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also, you are good and funny, like not trying too hard and happy to have a little laugh at yourself "instances" I really enjoyed this video

RyanMiguelMckie
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Hey carpenter fella. Ive been at this for 45 years in hundreds of years old homes. I often use a razor knife to start scoring the paint caulk line around the room. Then I prefer to start loosening the base with a heavy 6" mud knife prying out. After and or during that depending on how secure it is I add a flatbar and use together until no mudknife needed. Then two flat bars or a hammer flatbar. Using the flatbar against the mudknife avoids crushing soft spots in drywall with no wood backing and creating extra mud repairs.

noneofyourbeeswax
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Great tip, thanks again. By the way, I followed your guide for perfect result. Cheers from Ottawa area.

luctoulouse