Self-Equalizing Anchor

Self-Equalizing Anchor

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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).

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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.

The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.

We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.

Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment—which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)

Have fun and be safe out there!

[donthatton]

Awesome videos Roddy! Can you do videos of self rescue or situations where people might get stuck on a pitch or multipitch? I'd love to see what you have to talk about for those.

[mohammadlevy]

I use this one. Quick and easy in the right circumstances. Kind of like a baby Quad.

[blonk]

These videos are the best. Thank you for the knowledge.

[francoisbessette]

Wow, such great quality videos! The audio is awesome and everything is to the point. Thanks so much!

[rustyockenden]

don't forget the magic X at 1:44 or that anchor loses redundancy? it's shown but not mentioned if someone is to miss that step..

[Alessandromarangoni]

Nice video, I always use to make one knot 🪢 in the middle and grab the two external loop and equalize, I found out less stressing point if one point fail

[chadhayden]

Love how you just made a quad out of the cordelette, but you call it a sliding x with limiting knots.

[zzp]

Hi, I've been taking a lot of first timers out and doing a lot of top roping, you mentioned that you use those three steel oval carabiners to reduce wear on your aluminum climbing biners. I'm in Japan and pretty much the only thing that lasts out here is stainless, are they stainless and where did you get them? I love your videos. Great work and keep it up!

[rwATR_USN]

Why bother twisting the cordelette into a magic X when you make a quad? It doesn’t seem to matter.

Never mind, you’re using it as an alternative to clipping 3 of the strands.

[JD-]

Is it necessary or ideal to add a tarp or some kind of shield to prevent the cordelette from rubbing and being damaged by the edge of the cliff? If so is a tarp a good choice, or something else recommended? Thanks.

[geometerfpv]

Why in the world would one use a flat overhand to loop a cordalette? It rolls, it takes much less force, and its not gonna get stuck on anything, so the advantage it typically has is moot.

[bradbaston]

Can I ask why you'd use 3 snap gates? I've never seen that before, sure 2 opposing snap gates i know is the text book but why 3?

[mateoc.]

Could you also do a standard masterpoint. I'm new so bear w/ me. ut cant you just do a masterpoint where there is only one overhand or fig 8 and the biner is clipped in under it.