Creality K1 - Ultra Fast 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

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Creality K1 3D Printer, 600mm/s High-Speed 3D Printer with 32mm³/s Max Flow Hotend, Hands-Free Auto Leveling, Self-Test with One Tap, Dual Cooling, 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch

Lightning-Fast Speed:
With an upgraded 600 mm/s speed and 20000mm/s² acceleration, the Creality K1 is 12 times faster than ordinary FDM 3D printers, which can quickly and efficiently print your designs.

Hands-free Auto Leveling:
An array of strain sensors is embedded in the hotbed to generate an accurate leveling mesh. Automatic leveling after printing starts. Simply let the printer do the work for you and enjoy level prints every time.

Sturdy Frame:
Featuring a CoreXY structure, the Creality K1 has a solid unibody die-cast frame that ensures stable printing, even at high speeds, which results in smoother and more consistent output.

32mm³/s Max Flow Hotend:
Built-in new ceramic heater, heating to 200°C within the 40s, instantly melting the filament. Also, equipped with dual cooling Fans, the model hardens before any stringing and warping could happen.

Solve Ringing with G-sensor:
Eliminate ringing with the G-sensor feature that detects even the slightest vibrations and adjusts printing parameters accordingly. This results in crisper and clearer prints that are a sight to behold.

Notice: Please check the voltage of the machine before plugging it in, the US voltage is 115V..

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Good video, finally someone who not only talks, but also shows how the machine works in real time, I needed a video like that to show the printer. Helps you make a decision regarding purchasing it

victorpatinoarroyo
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I got one for Black Friday for $350. Two issues that need to be addressed. First is the filament tube has hard bends that produce extrusion inconsistencies with normal filament (mine came with the new/upgraded steel extruder and i updated the firmware to v1.3.2.20), which is a simple fix of taking it out of the cable chain and loosely zip tying it to the top of the cable chain every few inches. Second is the lid is too close to said tube and should be raised by at least 5mm, would recommend it be a sealed TPU spacer to help with ABS type prints that require the chamber to be warm. Otherwise it's a beautiful set and forget type of machine for most people.

Unfortunately there's a deal breaker if you're planning to print very precise parts. The idler bearings on the carriage aren't parallel. This means that when the printer head moves close to either end of X axis it warps the dimensions of the print by changing the angle of the belt. I measured consistently 0.4-0.9% 90 degree warp on 50mm calibration part printed at each corner, sides, and center (printed at 200mm/s, 5K accel). That made me return it unfortunately. You also need to root it to be able to apply a manual pressure advance settings and have full access to klipper on the printer, or but the lidar to activate the function

My good ol trustily rectilinear printer which i squared, trammed, plumbed, and spit shined has >0.02% on both 90% parts and 45% parts at each corner and side. Which honestly kind of shocked me, but i did spend a LOT of time and effort in making sure everything was squared as good as possibly using a caliper and quality square. Printed at 250mm/s (4K accel)

Last issue 😅the hot-end seems to lack thermal mass, after tuning the hot end a few times i still saw the temp jump +/- 3c. There shouldn't be z-banding on a machine with a single z motor and 3 point belted lead screws (copy of Bambu's bed design) and i saw for too much consistently random z banding, which was telling me possible inconsistent extrusion from fluctuating hotend temps. But that's more of a guess. Saw that on normal White PLA printed at 230c

MrHeHim
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Just bought a K1 last night Been using ender3 v2 All i can say is WOW This thing is fast Makes me realize i been beating a dead horse

robertbobbitt
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Ur videos are always high quality keep it up!!!🎉

milespettingill
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They have fixed some of the issues. They redesigned the extruder which fixes the under extrusion problem . People who have already purchased one can purchase the new extruder, new hot end kit for like $3.00. It's only available for a short time though . They also said that they're going to unlock it so you can use Klipper on it but they haven't done it yet.

hed
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Looks fantastic!

I finally gave up on my ender 5 s1...I'd level it before every print and somehow could never get it to work.

I think....I'm going to give 3d printing a few more years before I try again.

lynnmckenney
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This is the old version, have u released a video of the new one?

TheDIYer
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I have a question, i just ordered the ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro 3D Printer, its my first printer. All i got with it was the filaments, nothing extra. Do you think that was a good choice as i am on a budget and its my first printer? Do you have any tips and recommendations? I dont know how to use the settings, are they easy? I will definitely watch your video on it a second time when I receive the printer

Kwantem
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great review
but the plane leveling must be done every time the printer is turned on?

jeanclaudecusa
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19:06 there are numbers for the nozzle and bed temp to the top right XD

amiller
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Why do similar threads appear during printing?

nedaael-hissi
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I cannot get the screw back screw out, no matter how much I try it will not budge and I am so frustrated

thrivemk
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Mine was underextruding pretty badly i did some research and found that the extruder holder bracket is not that thight so i just tightended it, that easily fixed ir

Tcuyss
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You're one of the few people with an intact K1. Lots of people have reported receiving them with damage of some kind.

DrFod
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Excellent video. I found your honest approach and openness was extremely helpful, so thank you for that. Can I just ask, did you ever find out what caused the failed print and subsequent damage to your build plate?

hughgrove
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So even with auto leveling it has a chance to fail???
Also was the video sped up or was it real printing that fast???
It looked a little cartoony to be real 😅

lukeyboyandthecatlings
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What does the P Bottom:F mean under the 'prepare' page and the menu/icon on the left? (what does it do)?

billbuesseler
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Looking to buy a 3d printer solely for making rc parts with tpu would u buy this for doing rc parts or the 3s pro
Good video

XtremeRCPlay-xirc
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THE FIRST 51 MINUTES OF THIS VIDEO WAS USELESS! I WAS YESLLING AT THE SCREEN, THE FIRST THING YOU DO WITH ANY PRINTER SINCE 3D PRINTING STARTED IS MAKE SURE THE LATEST FIRMWARE IS INSTALLED. THAT IS THE OUT OF BOX EXPERIENCE TO SETUP WIFI DURING SETUP AND UPDATE FIRMWARE. YOU FINALLY UPDATED FIRMWARE @ 51 MINUTES INTO VIDEO. GOOD JOB!

SeanSR
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Sighs I bought a K1 two weeks ago and just returned it to microcenter and bought a Bambi x1c instead. It was just… a mix of delightful prints, and configuration hell. Orca made it easier (Creality print is garbage, utter garbage- who is it for? Everyone who knows what they’re doing hates it because everything is hidden 3-5 clicks deep in hidden dialog boxes and advanced toggles, and novice users will have no clue what to do because it’s so unintuitive - icons with no tool tips etc.) the biggest issue I ran into was trying to change filament on purpose on a single model to get certain layers a different color. It respects a PAUSE command but there was no way to get it to purge without messing up the print in progress, so not only did it take 10 minutes to swap filament - you’d have 2-3 hard lines of plastic on top of your model ruining it. Just terrible support from them, all of the profiles were user created. I rooted it and it only got more complicated

joeylopezdesign
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