Learn How to Draft the Pants Block, Part 2

Step-by-Step Instructions for Drafting Custom Pant Blocks (Slopers).
My system for drafting pants gets a better result for Non-Standard Figures than a lot of other block making instructions, which have been created within the fashion industry that works with Standard Figures.

Booklets: Bodice & Pants
Link to my Ko-Fi shop where you can buy my instruction booklets:

My website:

Link to my books on Google Play:

Pants Metric
Pants Imperial

Bodice Metric
Bodice Imperial

[brennerc]

I’ve been on a quest to make a great fitting pair of slacks, and had made 10 mock-ups in the last month using a block I’d made from a fashion pattern making book. I was so vexed! I have a small waist and a large, low-set hip and each change I made to my pattern seemed to spawn new issues.

Using your non-standard block instructions, I have a block I’m happy with after two mock-ups, and each required only small tweaks. Thank you so much for uploading these videos, they’ve saved me from throwing my sewing machine out the window in frustration. I appreciate your time and expertise <3

[Kirachan]

This is fantastic, thank you so much. I really appreciate the different figure types being shown. As a non standard figure I've been dreading drafting a pants sloper from my standard drafting textbook. Now I can't wait to get started.

[sandiebrown]

Great series! So refreshing to have someone address the different body shapes. Finally someone who teaches for real people. Can’t wait for episode 3.

[annieroberts]

Seriously a lifesaver you made these videos! I have a 14 inch difference between my waist and hip, for years I only wore skirts because pants were borderline impossible to find haha

[maryanngeorg]

Really great tutorials. Very detailed and always to the point. Love all tutorials.

[Phyllisd]

Thanks very much for this wonderful series. I can’t wait to try making my block.

[harshiwijayawickrama]

Love the way you explain and get along. This is the best I have come across.Thank you!

[NadoCrowFriend]

I simply love your tutorials! Straight to the point, with clear and concise details. Thank you for your exceptionally thorough videos!

[momzilla]

Hi Maria, After watching all the Youtube adjustment lessons that need to be done for a purchased Pant Pattern, I said no way.
I can't do that. I don't want to do that over and over again. Truly Maria, your lessons are the most valuable lessons in Logic I have learned
since earning a professional license years ago. I retired and haven't been able to use those skills since the pandemic began.

LOL This was a wonderful exercise for my brain, in thinking for a Community of Women. This is an exercise
in Women's health! Balancing what we need for the front, and that so abused back crotch line.
As a woman I'm tired of being kicked in the Butt by first the fashion industry, and then by our Government in this
one shape fits all.

I've watched all 5 parts of your Series a few times now and have really studying hard. So many notes that I am having a hard
time organizing them. Since Covid I have had a hard time recalling measurements, calculating ease over and over again.
That process is too much.
Your draft method only assumes 1" of ease at all the Cardinal Points above the Crotch, which makes things so much easier
for those who lack some short-term Memory. Draft for a Slack and you can't go too far wrong.

I am trying to think like a drafter with one Rule for all the body types in relationship to the crotch width.
I'm tired of being a baggy butt for Designs planned for the Standard 10" difference between waist and hip while being
well over 5.5 feet tall. All my family is well over 5.5 feet tall.
I love your J-String measuring apparatus! If that J-String pulls down more than a hair when sitting, we have balancing to do!
Most of us sit far to long and spread. LOL

ie Front and back difference is 2.5". That clues me into the what
will be needed to draft the back bum to balance the waist, instead of coming up too short.

Today I had a mathematical J-Curve Revelation in knowing where we stand, before Scooping to make
Cheek Room.

In all cases use the widest hipline measurement including ease, as the width of the Foundation to begin with.
In all cases assume a side seam "invisible" dart/dart equivalent, to centre the waistline on the Foundation with dart/darts.

If the the high hip is largest, use that measurement including the high hip "ease" as the width of the Crotch Line,
Assume low hip height to be 2.75" above the crotch. Curve side seam between the waist and crotch height ignoring the smaller
dimension of the lower hip when blending.
ie high hip including ease 43 divided by 4 = 10.75". Actual thigh 20" divided by 2 = 10" Extension equals .75"? on front pant block.

Here I am going to extrapolate knowing that there is a 2.5" difference in length between the front and back J curves.
2.5" - .75" front extension = 1.75" additional length needed for the back Block.
Lower the back crotch depth 1.75". 2.5" difference - 1.75" = Add 0.75"
Raise the BACK waist height by 0.75" through the centre bum?


Getting in the right ballpark for the front and back J Curves will mean everything to me at the Waist. Your right, how can anyone deign
a lower waist pant where they are missing that customized seat!
Happy Sunday Maria. The last 4 hours was a hallelujah for me. Little adjustments will be so much easier. I can do this and not
add a baggy bum, or not so bad! Smile!

[vegababes]

U went all out in this teaching am so happy with ur teaching my dear good job well done so appreciate this

[louiselafontaine]

OOF !!! A lot of work went into this presentation...
Thank you so much for doing this... :)
I am still at the novice drafting stage and found this so complex...
Who would have thought pant-making could be so complicated.
I know I will need to these videos quite a few times to fully understand.
Thank you again for taking the time to do this... :)
I have been following along with paper and coloured pencils, over a period of 2 days and I still don't have it down pat...
I'm a slow learner (LOL)...

[mrgarner]

I, as many viewers have stated as well, have been looking for a method to get a sloper that will fit my body. I am disappointed when I purchase pants. I have searched many drafting instructions and been disappointed. Your instructions are so spot-on.

Thank you!!!

[carolyntaylor]

Your presentation has certainly explained a lot of how's and why's. Very clear and to the point. Well done. Many thanks.

[sophiesotextiles]

Hi Maria, thank you so much for this series of videos, I love it that you are the first to talk about non standard body shapes! I have been so frustrated with 'traditional' drafting methods, that I have stopped trying to draft my own pants (thankfully, I have found a RTW brand that works for me, with the help of forgiving stretch fabrics ;)
I have a body shape that is closer to yours, with a 40 cm (15 3/4") difference between my waist and my widest part. With your videos, I've traced the first version and am now very eager to try it!

[helenketchen]

Thank you. What a great tutorial. So grateful you took the time to do this!

[brettdavidg]

Thank you so much! I hope to see more.

[seanbendavid]

What a great step-by-step video on this topic. The best so far, and I have search and watched many, I appreciate the work put in, the graphics really help. Thank you, Will watch part 3 next!

[alicehawthorne]

Thanks so much for making these videos and tutorials! This is so helpful in understanding how to go from 3D to 2D shapes

[christinenielsen]

Thanks to you I was able to draft the best foundation I have ever made. It still needs some tweaks but they are mostly just errors on my part. Then maybe I'll do some fine tuning of the angle of the back rise. But the best part is that thanks to you I was willing to throw out assumptions, even yours, about thigh shape and size and draft for my athletic thighs. Now the legs are no longer pulling on the foundation but they are still slack-shaped, not trousers. That has been a goal of mine for years.

[cpdesigns]

Excellent excellent explanation. Thank you.