How to get PERFECT First Layers on Your 3D Printer!!

In this video, we’ll be discussing Z-offset! That’s what you need to check if your 3D print isn’t quite sticking and bed leveling isn’t the issue. Whether you’re a newbie or an old-timer, it’ll be really helpful to know more about this topic!

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0:00 Intro
0:56 Z-Offset Basics
2:59 Consequences of Poor Z-Offset
5:07 Adjusting Your Z-Offset
7:17 Perfect(ish) Z-Offset and What To Do Next If It Doesn't Solve the Problem
9:41 Conclusion
10:11 Outro

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[superslacker]

Happy birthday, Amber! Thanks for putting up with Grant and keeping him sane enough to make content for us all!

[antsonarock]

Heya im having issues, first it seemed i was to close, i have flashforge adventure 3 light, i adjusted the Y axis and can move a peice of paper underneath with just a bit of touch, my rafts are now really odd, it does the outline thick, and the internal lines very very thin and not touching, almost like looking at a harp, any ideas how to fix this? im fairly new to printing still

[Dave]

I moved the limit switch down after getting rid of the glass bed and installing a PEI bed

[KurtisJoseph]

I have a Kobra Max or 2. All at once the auto leveling sensor (which seemingly can't be purchased) state that they are "abnormal". So, I unplugged and plugged in the wires, and used a cable tie to stabilize the print head wiring. Now... it says "calibration success" when I am not even touching a tool to the nozzle. Then it goes through the same prompt (leveling sensors are screwy) without even finishing the first probe. Anycubic is awesome until it isn't. Then you are screwed.

[nolondon]

just one comment id like to add for anyone reading: soup cans are (obviously) not precision parts and will have a fair amount of tolerance between cans. a pair of machined steel 1-2-3 blocks is like $18 on amazon and are accurate to .0003 of an inch between pairs. this is what i use to level my gantry and it works flawlessly/i dont have to worry about the temptation of wanting to eat a tool i use often like i would with soup.

[GuSuarez]

I constantly have peaks towards the edge walls, the center looks pretty good but filament piles up as the printhead goes to change direction on the infill

[RCDriftFamilyAdventures]

Next... Well that's a wast of time, Lots of talking, But no actual information on how to adjust Z offset, Even though he's got a few different printers 🤦‍♂️

[AndrewAHayes]

I stopped having tramming issues when I locked the adjutment wheels with nuts and washers and locktight which gave me a bed that was trammed correctly and no longer has the ability to move and so there is only the Z Offset to adjust after the ABL is done, the machine then just prints, and prints well and they can go for 3 months or more without having to be adjusted, my Pro 3D V-King 400 which also has a locked bed and tri independent belted Z axis just does Z Tilt and then ABL and never needs any intervention, my 2X Ender 5 Plus machines have dual independent Z and locked beds and run G34 before each print and then ABL also hardly ever need need intervention.

[kidfunkyfri]

Can my build plate be wavy? Im getting ridges is some spots but not others and it is level edit: I have an auto bed leveler too

[Phurd]

So i have a Sovol Sv03, been printing on it for a while and switch from normal PLA to different transparent filament. the temp i printed with for that filament was alot hotter then my normal filament. after i was done using that i went back to my normal PLA and i havnt been able to print since, i level my bed and set my z off set and as soon as it start is immediately doesnt stick and fails right away. Normally i can figure this stuff out but this time for some reason i cant, iv re level and set z off set over and over and it still fails. is there anything else i could look at?

[SianaGearz]

I have a hardmounted bed and it's really simple, i simply use nuts in 3D printed turners; springs are removed entirely, and one set of turners is just above bed carrier and the other below, jamming hard against it both to lock, similar action to a locknut. Absolutely no movement, not coming apart at all, and i can adjust it if and when i want so easily.

But this is how i broke a borosilicate sheet after my probe failed to deploy properly due to servo wear.

Why would you want an oscilloscope for 3D printing, and would a toy oscilloscope (150KHz bandwidth 1MS/s single channel) suffice? If you're having any kind of power or interference issue, you should be able to just about see it on that. Because you can build one of those for less than 20. Otherwise, perfectly adequate real oscilloscopes by Owon and Hantek are WAY cheaper than the sorts of 3D printers you're running around with. There's also Fnirsi but i'd struggle to call anything they make "real" or "adequate".

Also i have independently controlled Z motors and my probe levels the gantry against the bed, touching down left and right until they're near even.

[woodwaker]

Happy Birthday Amber, and Grant remember VISE holds something VICE is a bad habit or maybe not

[Andre_M_D]

I have the anycubic kobra and with having the PEI sheet I use alcohol however I also wash it with dish soap and tap water and that does the best job. 👌. That is a great solution when alcohol does not work.

[awilliams]

I'll have to create a z-level file. That looks way better than the crappy stock one. It's way too small. By the time I can see the square, it's done printing. Having it cover the majority of the length of the bed looks useful. I know some people print one that does the ENTIRE bed, but I think that's too extreme and it will take too long to see the results.

[michaelwesolek]

My printbed was oily, so this guide didn't help. Had to clean it with alcohol.

[lanesteele]

You almost lost me at that like button joke

[traywayle]

this video did absolutely nothing but was straight yapping. read his comments where he replied and said it depends on the printer??? so don’t post a video at all dude. everyone knows to clean your plate, and make sure it’s “not too high” or “not too low”