LOCALISM | Is it ruining surfing?

Localism in surfing is one of the weird phenomenons associated with the sport. For those new to surfing, there are some old fashioned strategies you can employ to have a more relaxed experience around heavy locals - let's have a look at the whole equation today.

[DS-gomn]

I've been looking for a way to offer a little praise to a 40-ish surfer with a heavy English accent who was surfing my home break on the east coast of Florida. He had a young grom steal one of his waves followed by a 20-ish fellow who stole the next wave. He paddled over to both of them and politely and calmly yet firmly explain that was his wave and why it was his wave. I missed the opportunity to paddle over and commend him. Kudos to you.

[jksinorbit]

A) Kooks need to learn the rules.
B) Salty seadogs need to chill and enjoy their time in the water.

[alesantana]

I've been surfing for 15 years from Australia to Brasil, Bali to Marrocco and of course Spain, France and Portugal. Most of the surfers are assholes. Everywhere the same. Never feel the tension, bad karma or even heard a bad word in other sport as on surfing. I'm feeling sadder in every session I take and I'm not very optimistic about the future of this sport.

[Whitehorseandryder]

As an adopted son of Bondi, my favourites are the ones who cruise out back on their longboard, grab the best wave by sitting 15m further out (because they can on their 10fter), then paddle straight back out to the exact same spot and catch the very next set wave, over and over again the entire time they're out there..

[siryusmusic]

the main problem in my opinion is, locals dont apply etiquette but expect non locals to do so. they snake everyone and since they are usually outnumbered non locals dont dare to have problems with locals. point breaks are the worst example of what localism looks like. there is no aloha spirit left in the sport, only greed and arrogance.

[bonefishboards]

As I've gotten older, at crowded/localized lineups I set my expectations pretty low and almost always have a great session. When I expect a great session, I always undershoot.

[jimmatson]

I surf a 9'0" Firewire in surf 2-6 foot at many different a point breaks as I enjoy the camping and surfing experience.

At 54 and fit I've caught thousands of good waves, however...

I can 100% state that I've earned more compliments from other surfers when I'm sitting out further than them and I indicate to that I'm letting great waves slide past me, to them on the inside.

Surfing to me is a respect sport... give more and feel happier.

And when you're camped in the car park it's amazing when they walk up to thank you for showing gentlemen's etiquette.

[bodhitree]

The only locals I'm afraid of are the ones with fins.

[matthewbarrett]

Gotta make that first wave count. If locals see you can surf they usually give you no trouble unless you're paddling for everything. Letting a non-local take a good wave is easier to swallow if they don't waste it. Also if you're at a spot where you aren't a local just sit under the main pack and take the ones that slide under them.

[carlosgzambrana]

That's why you can't put your identity on being a "surfer", they take it too seriously and it stops being fun. If you don't get paid to surf just relax and have fun.

[GrooveDuude]

You are spot on Kale. We need more like you. Conscious Localism to me is regulating the break with fairness and maturity. Calling out people who ignore etiquette and letting the newbs know the regulars/locals won’t tolerate it. When the lineup is flowing we all cheer each other on. Even if we don’t know each other’s name. I’d be happy to share waves with you here in San Diego.

[krishnaveganathar]

The amount of rationalization for one’s own dickishness is amazing….

It’s a “toxic mindset”.

[finalben]

I hesitated to watch this video because I really enjoy your content but localism is a topic I'm really passionate about. As usual you did a good job of talking through it although I will say you were maybe overly positive towards the concept which seems to be a result of the fact that you, at some point in your life, were a "local." As someone who didn't have the opportunity to begin surfing until my mid 20's and spend the majority of my 20's landlocked the idea of localism has always perturbed me. A local is someone who is lucky enough to live near a wave that they can surf it everyday, me on the other hand had to travel over 2 hours to surf. Both of us are there because we love surfing so why should the person who is able to surf it more be given special privilege's over someone who has to invest more time and money to enjoy the same hobby? Also there are tons of videos and descriptions of surf etiquette and I think this is a great concept. But localism introduces a double standard to that set of rules. Imagine in driving had the same theory applied and people who travelled local roads more often didn't have to obey traffic signals if they thought the car across from them was from our of state. It's an absurd comparison but it shows some of the logical flaws of the concept and how this double standard can create dangerous situations. Now think of catching waves as currency and apply the concept. People who get a specific wave more often should be given priority over people who get that wave less often? This creates a disparity of wealth and increases not only the wave counts but the skill gap between locals and people who have to travel for surf making it harder to "impress a local by catching a good wave" which you suggested as a method to win over locals in your video. Luckily I'm in my 30's now and moved to the coast for the first time in my life a few months ago but since moving I've been called more than a few rude names by grouchy old men, even when following standard surf etiquette. The combination of these two ways of experiencing surfing have left me with little respect for the concept of localism. Hopefully there are more positive things going on elsewhere. Hopefully I'm not coming off argumentative here, this is just topic I have put a lot of thought into and think there needs to be more conversation about.

[durkadurk]

I've always wanted to surf & been bummed I don't live near an ocean. This video has made me grateful I have a snowy mountain to enjoy a board sport without any bs involved.

[royalwolf]

My son from mackay went down to Brisbane to see his sister this week. They went for a surf at snapper rocks. He is a 15 year old kid and he was appalled at how some of the locals treated him. Was verbally abused several times for being in the road. He is at an intermediate level but still sometimes finds himself accidentally in the wrong spot. By the same token he said there was one local there who was chill as and really encouraging and helpful so good and bad everywhere. Still disappointing that people think they can own the surf. It’s such a great sport and should be something we enjoy together without ownership. We were all kooks once hey🤙

[thecarlangasbar]

I had an incident with a local where I caught a great wave, but fell after my bottom turn. He started yelling at me saying I’m not ready for that wave and to go away. It was a crowded line up, and I can understand their frustration of having so many people join a break that used to be their own. Luckily I watched you video about 2 months before this happened so I just moved to the side and let it go. My natural instinct would have been to stand my ground, but that would have taken me nowhere.

Thanks for sharing this! 🤙

[Howleebra]

in Hawaii you got to go bodyboarding and UFC fighting on the same beach...i had a great childhood

[dalefrank]

I surf a spot where it's kooks only, and we smash up anyones car who doesn't surf a softtop or can go down the line.

[tobesurf]

This is super insightful. All the things I've often thought about... and probably been guilty of myself before.

[michaelbargo]

The point made around 8:14 about your experience in Sydney and the more general psychology of greed and mistrust is a point well made. Scarcity is an emotional response and empathy and generosity require the punctuation provided my the rational mind. Not always easy but a good reminder to look beyond the myopic frustration of other people taking 'your' waves or being turds about others taking 'theirs'.