Tie in the middle of the rope with bowling banshee technique #rope #knot #climbing

An alternate way to the overhand follow through with a bight to tie into the middle of the rope. Although this way is overall less bulky, I personally prefer to utilize the overhand follow through (peep my video from last week) because it is easier to get into and out of the system. This knot can be quite difficult depending on the scenario to get out of the system if needed. But good to know both techniques.

[perplexedon]

This is my midline tie in off choice, and I also use the same knot for tying in the end. Advantage is that it is incredibly secure, strong and easy to inspect. Its also easy to untie after large loads.

The only disadvantage for this midline tie that I know of is that of you are attached to a multipitch belay with a sling/PAS, you can't untie the knot without bypassing the loop you step through, usually with a second sling/PAS. When you try and step back through the loop it will always get caught on the PAS.

If you do have a Sling style PAS, you can bypass it with a second carabiner or even the original carabiner by pulling a loop of the sling past the loop as you are stepping through it and clip it back onto the carabiner. You then undo the original loop from the carabiner. If you only use one carabiner, this does mean your only attachement is briefly open, which is sketchy. If you use a second locker, then you still need a good enough stance to unweight the sling.

Essentially these disadvantages are by far outweighted by the advantages in most cases, but if you are doing a route where you need to untie and retie a lot to switch between climbing and rappelling, and the belay stances are really poor, then another option may be a better choice.

[xchinvanderlinden]

I’ve used this when climbing with a half rope on short pitches.

[ryenschimerman]

I really like this in an instance that you have a lest trustworthy person in a 3-party group - thanks!

[arnoldkotlyarevsky]

I really like this. It is both silly and effective.

[hummerchine]

Where did you come from?😊

Killer videos!

[eli-boy]

Proof that you can tie every knot in like 50 different ways

[Dcale]

Pretty slick!!! What’s wrong with a butterfly or 8 on a night and use a carabiner? Are we assuming no carabiner?

[JonSteitzer]

This is properly called a "bowline on a bight"

[WhackBytch]

Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should

[TarikVann]

This is probably good for kids or inexperienced people