BMW Z3 M Coupe: How To Fix The Flawed Chassis Design | Wheeler Dealers

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Ant shows how to fix the chassis issues that are the result of a flawed original design by BMW, where the combination of a powerful engine and weak platform undermined the structural integrity of the car.

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Appreciate showing all the detail and the work strengthening the diff ear and the box, and I understand you can’t put too much in on a flip... but in this case it’s the film that pays the bills so why not finish strong
You may know, but,
That cross beam (hat section) is spot welded to the floor and also meets “frame rails” of sorts forming an H shape. Many Z3 rear floor fails tear out spot welds joining that box to floor in middle but also out at ends of that box where load must move out to outboard lengthwise boxes (it’s not so much the beam is too weak as the beam tears off the floor)... if those many spot welds already fail OEM, then stiffening the center of the beam may simply fail the spot welds more readily (especially outboard) ....

I suggest anyone read through Randy Forbes kit installation detail before copying this method....1000+ Z3 reinforced and proven on track with power adders. Those methods also address corrosion concerns by accessing those box sections from inside the trunk and allow coating all surfaces rather than leaving underprotected metal between the reinf plate and OE stampings Check all the spot welds along the H ... this will require removing the insulation from the trunk floor

That’s a sweet little beastie and looks worth the effort

Thanks again for sharing. Really do enjoy the content

scooterdon

He has made the problem even worse. The spot welds that hold the diff crossmember to the boot floor pull themselves apart under heavy acceleration.
By strengthening the crossmember it will transfer more of that load to the weak spot welds. He should have also seam welded the crossmember to the boot floor, across its full length and on both sides.
I have owned multiple Z3's over 15 years, he has one for a week and is an expert!.
Those that say 'good job' never owned a Z3 with this problem.
And besides, the fact that he had so much problem trying to get the diff hanger off, should have shown him that wasn't even an issue

gooks

Your video quality and content are exceptional; your voice is impressively clear and engaging. Well done💫

d

Great video! Good and nice presentation of the most important content, a lot of information, and very good editing. Thanks a lot for sharing this information. Greetings from a Z3 Coupe 3.0 driver from BMW town Munich 🙂

TS_Garage

This is still my all time favorite BMW Driving Machine ! What a hoot ! Understeer, oversteer, 4 wheel slide, all in the same corner? Check, check and check !

ghibli

What starts the problem is the soft sub frame bushings. These will allow the front movement of the differential, which then transfer to the rear mount. Change the the soft sub frame bushings to Powerflex polyurethane bushes.

maccoolmac

I looked away when your were welding 🤣

TheJohn

Nothing beats the randy forbes reinforcement kit. :)

jamesruiz

Loving the use of weld through primer there 🙄

epmonster

nice work. ive wanted a Z3 since i was a kid.

ShelBelSapphire

Since the Z3s and Z3 Ms share the rear suspension with the E30, I believe this is an E30 only problem. The E36 had a rear subframe - with a different problem unless it's a M3 (reinforced from the factory).

CurryHurry

Besides the fact that this repair did not address the trunk floor-related reinforcements (an important omission), I would be very concerned about corrosion issues associated with bare metal surfaces including those caused as a result of welding heat on the cars OEM-finished sheet metal (this corrosion concern would also apply to the installation of the more comprehensive Randy Forbes kit as well, I think). I wonder if the use of stainless steel plate together with stainless steel fasteners and an appropriate epoxy adhesive would be an adequate way to effect a repair/reinforcement without leaving behind bare steel surfaces? Of course this type of repair would be very labor intensive and require high precision machining operations (principally drilling of well aligned holes for fasteners). Comments on this approach?

cbrbimmer

Granxe Ant 6 straordinari il migliore al mondo tue Mike ok👍👍👍un abbraccio da Italy Niko🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹❤️❤️❤️👌

nicolafrancio

I wonder if you could comment on the steering feel of the clown shoe? I’ve driven a few of them recently as I contemplate buying one but find the front end to feel very vague with regard to inputs/outputs and feedback, almost as if you point the car and it hunts for the line you’ve given it. I drive Miata’s and Porsches and find the steering to feel much more direct and precise on these cars. Is the BMW really that bad or have I just driven a few lemons. If this is just the inherent feel of the car, is there any way to fix it? Would love to hear anyone’s thoughts on the matter. Thanks!

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