How To Get LED Turn Signals Working On Your Vintage Motorcycle

Our Vintage Honda CB's and CL's have always struggled in their charging systems with keeping us topped off with that sweet battery voltage that keeps you driving down the road. Besides upgrading your regulator/rectifier and performing the Yellow/White wire mod one of the best thing you can do is switch your bike over to LED's. They hardly draw any current, they are bright as hell and for the most part are a plug and play switch

LED turn signals bring a few new gremlins to understand though and if you're making the switch there is a few things we thought you should know about getting them working properly. Check out our explanation and tutorial to spend less time messing around with your wires and more time riding that sweet Vintage Honda, Cafe Racer, Scrambler or any older vintage bike you are working on.

[jayshaw]

Thanks. I'm going to need to watch this again . . . . slowly. ; - )
For the life of me, I could not get the LEDs to work right. But then I realized that it's the LIGHT BLUE wire that's connected to the turn indicator, not the DARK BLUE wire. All is well now.

[robertdivizio]

Interesting update. These old bikes need as much battery power as possible to run really well. Changing lights to LEDs is a great idea. Thanks!

[tommylud]

You guys are now a staple in the credit to my level of knowledge

[thomasbonner]

Thanks a ton man, just did a conversion on my Vulcan and couldn't figure out why the indicator wouldnt turn on. This makes sense.

[DeadbatteryVT]

Just found this ! thank you for getting to the point and doing this on the bench, It makes things much clearer ! When people do it on the bike you dont get a good view and its messy. This is simple and clean.

[telcobilly]

Great video! Just went through all of this on my '22 XR150L Electrically very similar to the classic Hondas. I wired in a new tail with LED signals that worked, but hyper flashed. I fixed that with a LED spec flasher. When I wired in the front LED signals, I got all 4 blinkers coming on together. The quick fix was to pull the incandescent dash indicator bulb and everything worked great. I put a LED T10 indicator bulb in it's place, but it only works when signalling right. I now have some diodes coming and a schematic, so soon everything will be 100% instead of 90%. I actually converted all of the AC current going to the head and tail light to DC so my bike is 100% LED, including the parking light and dash lights. I have a power tap under the headlight shell to wire accessories such as a USB charger and volt meter. Going to be adding mini LED spotlights soon. The 3 way switch is in place.

[DANIELSPEER]

I am so glad I ran across your YouTube Channel... the solid light on the flashers was my main issue!

[MarkJames]

Top notch! Would be good, after your great explanation, to show where all the parts sit on a real bike, for orientation (even if they differ from model to model).

[Dongunawardena]

Can you have a regular bulb for the indicator light and all the flashers LED? I am converting mine but I have trouble finding an led bulb for the indicator.

[winstonpage]

Great video! Converted a 72 350f 2 years ago. Could've used this info then! Keep them coming!

[WontSeeReplies]

Now I understand how my wife feels when I try to explain seemingly common sense matters in seemingly common sense explanations.

One failure to grasp a concept and the entire explanation goes out the door.

[Christian.]

I thought I knew my shit on turn signals. But that reverse indicator stuff was news. Thanks B!

[roberthanks]

Thanks your explanation made sense immediately, it's really nice not to be "hyper explained" to.

[sandy]

Thanks for your video. I have an LED flasher unit on my bike and am ready to install new LED indicators. Question: Do I still need to wire in a resistor/diode or will the indicators work ok due to the LED flasher unit? Many thanks.

[TheCastleKeeper]

You don't need to use a diodes or resistors to do the conversion. All you need is a CF15 LED non-polarity flasher. It is a three prong flasher, while most Flashers for vintage bikes are two prong. The third prong goes to ground. The CF12, CF13, and CF14 will still have problems. You have to get a CF15. I got one off Amazon for $11 and my 83 Suzuki GR650 was up and running using cheap Amber 1156 LEDs I got off Amazon in a four pack for $10. Total conversion cost was $21. I also converted my instrument panel for $8 for a pack of ten 194 LED bulbs. Then added an LED headlight. I got and LED rear/break 1157 years ago when they first came out, back when they were expensive. It's still kind of dim, as it also doubles as a license plate light, so you have to use a white one in a red on top, white underneath cover. I've been searching for a dual LED (Red Beam/White on bottom) for it, but haven't found one.

[C_MacC]

I already had driving lights and turn signals installed, but I added a new LED light bar that includes both driving lights and turn signals/running lights, along with an optional headlight. I can hook up either the turn signal or the running light in the front, but not both at the same time. The LED light has 3 wires coming out of it. I've read I have to choose one or the other. I have stock lights in the rear. All lights work fine. They do flash a little fast but I am ok with it. When the turn signals are hooked up they flash as they should not affecting the other side. 03 Kawasaki Vulcan 1600.

[SuperFrankie]

Draw a diagram will make it so much easier 🤤

[DrBoss]

Once again Brenden, an excellent video that is concise and well explained. Kudos from WI.

[noahzark]

Hey there. Great video but I was wondering if you would do a video on wiring up a 6V system on a vintage dirt bike, start to finish? I live in a state where anything below 300cc can be registered if it meets the safety requirements. I have an 84 KDX 200 and I’m dying to get some lights on it. Please let me know. Subscribed!

[jeffreywilde]

This video has SO much info in it that by the time he gets to installing an LED, you are dazed and confused.