(Climbing Analysis) Stop the Swing - 3 Ways to Negate a Barn Door

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Barn doors can sneak up on you. Here are 3 ways to negate them.

[ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

The words on the thumbnail cover up your shorts 😂😂😂😂….I thought this was a whole new type of movement for climbers video😂😂😂😂

[hammads]

No one's explained balanced to me like this. This is so eye-opening, I want to jump into my gym asap

[AvengingSyndrome]

Great video. One aspect that comes up a lot is when releasing a heel hook into tension you can often change the heel to a toe first. This minimizes the maximum force you have to take by separating the move into two smaller moves. This can make holding the swing much easier overall. I think I use this at least once a week.

[RipperJack]

Back Flag is something I just intuitively started using more and more over time and every time I am amazed how much it helps

[MrPrinny]

this is fantastic timing <3 I just ran into this exact problem on a new V5 boulder set last Tuesday, and now I have two new betas to try :D (I did the body tension method). Another great video. Thank you!

[Ewert]

Man you are so pedagogical in your explanations. I love it.

[skoqqa]

So glad youtube recommend this. And very much appreciate the creators of the video. The information, narration, filming and visual aids were concise and easily digestible. I've never really understood when people mentioned "center of gravity" and it's been a factor in many things I enjoy besides bouldering. Now I feel like I have much more insight, thanks to this video. The visual aids overlayed on the climber were particularly helpful, for me.

[geometerfpv]

Excellent video, these are the things that really matter for the "next level", and they arent explained well elsewhere imo. I think people default to the "tension method" and just assume they arent strong enough whenever it doesnt work. Especially when the holds are bad, using the other techniques makes a huge difference.

[corbinebeling]

I needed this so bad, I've been swinging hard on a V6 at my gym that I just can't stop.

[kevinconnors]

For the move around the 3:00 mark, I've found that it's usually easier to get the left hand on the hold as fast as possible, yes you will barn door but just transfer that momentum into a back flag. The difference is that you won't have to use your right hand to support your entire weight while setting up the back flag; you have two hands and just need to control your momentum as you make the left hand move.

This is not always the case and the method shown in the video is sometimes better if it's a really desperate move, but in that case you will need to be extremely strong because all your weight is supported by one hand.

[maxfred]

I love your recent series of videos. Very nice in depth explanation! Thank you ☺️

[larathompson]

I like how you verbalize sum forces = 0 and sum torque = 0 for a body in equilibrium (and to stay there). Beyond that, nice demos of the techniques!

[tonimartin]

Great in depth movement analysis!!! 👏👏👏

[jacobcatano]

Really clear explanation of balance concepts. Solid video!

[joostdemoor]

Great explanation but I would argue the back flag often does count as a point of contact. You do not only shift your weight; you often actively push against the wall to prevent the barndoor from 'opening' - i.e. the the body still wants to peel away from the wall (i.e. you may not have shift weight sufficiently to change that) but it cannot, because your back flagging leg is in between.

[sunshinedaze]

this is so insanely helpful!! thank you!!

[BoulderingHighlights]

now the question is, how does Janja stop swings keke

[joshuanuss]

What if you switched your feet before moving the right hand up at 5:04? Would that negate the swing as well?

[wawak]

does switching feet and doing a regular flag accomplish similar results to the back flag?

[taghazog]

And instead of getting your right foot to the upper foothold, why wouldn't you cross using right foot the bottom hold, left to upper one, then flag with right foot to the right? (learning theory while not at gym, would like to know if this solution is good too)