Setting the Ignition Timing On Your Honda CB500K / CB550 / CB750 / CB350F / CB400F

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This is the ultimate guide on setting your ignition timing on the Honda CB350F / CB400F / CB500k / CB550 / CB750 family of bikes. Part of owning one of these families of bikes is knowing the proper tune-up procedure to perform when changing the oil, adjusting the chain, and setting your valves every 1,500 miles (2400 km). All of these must be performed every time to have your motorcycle running at peak performance and when done properly you will find that these bikes turn over on the first kick and scream to the red line. We consider learning how to set the points gap, static timing, and dynamic timing what we call the "weed-out" skill. Take your time and rewatch this guide to learn how to set your timing, if you don't you will have a tough time getting your bike to run reliably. Alongside ignition timing, every 1,500 miles (2,400 km) you also need to change the oil in your 4-cylinder Honda, set the cam chain tension, and also set your valves(tappets).

Cam Chain and Valve Adjustment for CB500k, CB550, CB750, CB350F, and CB400f:

Replacement Parts Available:

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Hey folks. I've finished my full restore of my 75 Honda CB 360t and everything but the paint is Common Motors Collective. Great quality parts. Also, Brandon has been a huge help to me. Without his vids I'd still be working on it.
His help with timing is crucial. Also want to mention my upgrade to the shockwave, replacing the points. GREAT!!
That's all. I just haven't found a place to thank him properly so that's why I posted this

bigal
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This is a good video on ignition points adjustment. Static timing will get you into the ball park, but dynamic timing with a strobe light allows you to test the timing at idle and full advance. Full advance is more critical as the engine operates above 2500 rpm most of the time. If the full advance is between the lines on both points you are golden. If not, adjust the timing as needed. The point plate may not fit in the crankcase tightly, This will cause a variation in point gap and dwell as you rotate the plate. You can easily see this with a dwell meter attached. The solution is to center punch the case just outside the point plate to tighten up the fit. I always liked to set the points at the middle of the range 0.014". Ignition points will wear into each other over time. One of the contacts is smaller in diameter then the other and will wear the center of the larger point. If you run an emery board across well used points you may see a shiny ring around the outside edge of one point. A very small amount of high temp grease on the points cam will reduce point rubbing blocks wear and changing the timing. If you have installed a new set of points, be sure to thoroughly clean the point surfaces with a piece of card stock dipped in contact cleaner and then pulled through the points. New points have preservative on them which must be cleaned off for the best service life.

millarfarewell
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Thanks for this excellent tutorial. I followed it to set the timing and points gap. One difference I had was with the test light. It was either on, or off. No flickering. Also, after the firing on 1-4 was indicated the light stayed on until I had rotated the crank probably another 90 degrees. Not sure why this is the case unless the points are sticking. More investigation needed!

MarkW-dk
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So I'm having some troubles with a newly acquired 1973 Honda 350 Four, and while learning some things about it, I found your video! Your instructions are easy to follow, and I'm glad I've found your video! I will be subscribing as soon as I get done with this question.

I'm not getting spark to the plugs, so I figured I'd need new coil packs... after seeing this video, I figured I'd look at my timing while I have the bike up on the stand and was surprised to find that I have no power to test the timing! I'm not very experienced with this bike, I just got it in my garage a week or 2 ago, and I don't know where that power comes from. I've double-checked my ignition switch. It was on, and of course, the key was on, but I couldn't get my test light to come on from the 1 4 or the 2 3 contact points as seen in this video. It's hard to trace the wires with how compact this 350 frame is, so I figured I'd ask, where does the power for the contact for the timing come from?
Thanks in advance for any help!

kurtbreitenfeldt
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actually there is a third additional test to test the functionality of the ignition advancer - rev up to 2500rpm - 3000rpm with the gas screw and check the allignment ith the two advance marks ahead of the F Mark. if the mark on ignition plate lines up between the two marks - the advancer is fine.
sometimes the advancer is sticky or the springs are to loose.
I think this is im portant because most of the time driving this bike we are way beyond 2500 rpm...

ralphmemminger
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Thank you so much, i found out my bike was about 20⁰ retaarded in timing, now it loves to dance in higher rpm

nicholasrichards
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You have the very best guide for timing the old CBs and i am extremely appreciative. I have an issue with getting power to the actual points. Something likely easy to resolve but not sure of a resolution.

jimrowe
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Thanks man this is really great help me a lot I built a cb400f I couldn't get timing right!!

raulbustamante
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Thanks for the video. Very informative and no obnoxious music.

tjj
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This instructional video came at a perfect time-ING : ) I did mine statically and the bike runs fine, but I think I want to get a timing light to be perfect. Really great video, Thank You!

RobertKeigher
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What amazes me is the frequency of these "tune ups". For years I've heard Hondas are reliable and need very little maintenance. I have worked on 1 CB750 ( I like to get a bike to work on over the winter) and got the workshop manual along with the bike. My conclusion was, if I wanted to take a cross country ride I'd have to bring half my tool box with me. 1, 500 miles and check the points, valves clearances and cam chain tensioner?
Now I'm not knocking these bikes they are fun and when they run right very quick.
I learn something from every bike I work on and what I've learned from the CB750 four is....don't work on another...LOL
Great video, great information....I might change my mind.

gremmann
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Thanks for making this video, very well done and very informative. I use the same procedure to time my 1976 Honda CB750 but I don’t do the static timing, I go straight to the dynamic timing with the timing light. One small slip of the tongue. At about 6:41 you say the test light will illuminate when the point makes contact. In fact, the test light comes on when the points open which is when the coil fires the spark plugs. You are connecting the positive clip of the test light on the ground side of the coil and the ground pointer rod of the test light to the bike frame ground which is also connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Note that the positive side of the coil is connected to the battery positive terminal. The points are between the ground side of the coil and the bike frame ground. When the points are open the ground side of the coil also connects to the battery positive terminal through the coil and there is 12 volts across the open points which is why the test light comes on. When the points are close there is zero volts across the points which is why the test light goes off but there is 12 volts across the coil which charges the coil. So when the points open the coil discharges and fires the spark plugs. Hope I did not get too technical.

Danny_Handford
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Grazie grazie bravo grazie per i sottotitoli in italiano

luigiranucci
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Your second set of points are likely to be dirty or oily and that’s why you are getting a resistive low light indication. File them flat and clean with solvent and you should be golden

DaveSluggy
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l hated doing this and gave up !! l fitted Pirahna electronic ignition to both my Four hundred fours !! Very easy to set up with a strobe light !!

Sam_Green____
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dont forget to adjust the cam chain...no...no crescent wrenches they are for plumbing. before you adjust points that have been used..clean the points...they get some arching so they need to be cleaned. the pistons rise and fall in pairs, 2 coils so both spark plugs fire only one piston is on the compression stroke in the pair. if i remember correct a piston fires every 180° . i had a Triumph trident 3 cylinder, each piston fired every 120°

meTimetraveler
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These videos are awesome - thanks Common-Motor 👍

englishbuilds
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I didn't see u rev it up to make sure advancer is working.

rvega
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Where did you find that static timing light? Thanks for the instructional video, helping a lot.

billythompson
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What should I do I if I can't move the adjustment plate far enough when doing a static set?

Kanesbigbear