Harbor Freight Folding Trailer Assembly

Harbor Freight Folding Trailer Assembly Video. This is a a complete “how to assemble a harbor freight folding trailer” guide. In this video we show you how bolt the frame together, put together the trailer hitch, axle and the wheels. These Harbor Freight folding trailers are easy to assemble if you follow the instructions.

We started with laying out all of the trailer parts on the floor and taking a quick inventory. Next we bolted the two main frame sections together followed by the trailer tongue assembly. The axles, leaf springs and wheels were next to go on.

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to ask or let me know!

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[MrFredsDIY]

Are you planning to buy one of these trailers? Do you already own a Harbor Freight trailer? Tell us about your experience!

[adamwren]

Wish I watched this before I assembled mine. Planning on using it a little landscaping/pressure washing work.

[scottbeverly]

Your chain mod is definitely stronger than the OEM as it gives a redundant safety measure. I am curious though if the axle mounting brackets can be moved farther toward the rear of the trailer for my specific needs? Thanks for the cool and informative video.

[Bewefau]

Hey I thought about getting one of those :)

[ghostdog]

I’d put the chains on the underside of the top flange to help simplify the forces involved, but this should be super strong enough.

[philliptigredeville]

Planning to buy one
Greetings from albuquerque nm

[LW-iosw]

A really great video!!! When levered, what is the hight from the ground to the top of the surface of channel where the floor would be installed? Thank you!

[ericmoon]

Great video! The leaf springs have some play after i tighten the bolts. I know im not supposed to tighten em so hard that the metal rail bends. Hahaha. Did yours have some play as well? Thanks!

[channelofchannels]

I got one used for free and it came with 8inch wheels lol

[michaelmiles]

Your video is really helping me with my HF 1720 trailer build. I'm having fits getting the wheels on the axle spindle at the moment. It seemed you left the shipping grease in the hub - did you add any more grease after installing the wheels? If you did (or if you just know), what grease can I just add to the hub with the shipping grease without having to clean out all the old grease and removing the back seal too?

[MrBillyr]

Hey, what size tyres do you have on the other trailer cheers.

[chrisbarton]

how do you get a license plate for it?

[jennyshoning-cargill]

Any idea on where to get a better tire rated for a decent speed?

[FisherOMen]

So do you need to remove the carriage bolts from the spring mount every time you want to fold the trailer?

[edmpropertymanagementltd]

could you install a deck that hung off the front of the frame on the hitch side with out impeding the function of the trailer? if so how far up could you go do you think?

[billypirtle]

There is two trailers thy do not sell anymore the 5 x 10 and the boat trailer have not seen any of these in 20 years now I have the boat trailer and two 5 x 10. Bought them back in 1982 still use all 3. Boat trailer has a 16 ft extra wide john boat on it.

[AdorableDeplorable]

Any idea what the torque spec is for the M10 bolts?

[RealBLAlley]

We bought one a little over a year ago. We intended to get the 1195 lb trailer but they were out. The 1720 is only $30 more and has box channel cross-members and tow bars instead of C channel, has a stronger axle, and 5.20-12 5-lug wheels instead of 4.80-12 4 lug wheels. The tow bar brackets are also stronger. I recommend always getting the 1720 trailer.

There were two minor errors in the assembly manual, but easy to figure out. I assembled it by myself in about three hours even though I suffer from fatigue and spinal cord issues. I wired it another day in about an hour, even with some custom routing and wire management.

I assembled it upside down from the start and didn't flip it until I had all the main parts attached, minus the fenders to prevent damaging them during the flip. If you pay attention it's not difficult to build it that way. Hold each part in the normal orientation and then flip it over.

The safety chains did not have a center link. I identified the two links at the middle, hooked a wired onto them, and pulled the chain through the coupler mount. I then ran the Coupler bolt through the two links _adjacent_ to the two middle bolts. It's more than strong enough for a trailer of this weight and load capacity.

I placed two large nylon washers between the tow bars and the brackets to protect the paint from being rubbed off.

If you leave out the rear leaf spring bolts, after hand tightening the U-Bolts you can rotate the entire axle and spring assembly forward to access to the U-Bolt nuts for easy torquing.

Thank you for not buying into the "shipping grease" nonsense. If packing the bearings was required during assembly the factory would not have assembled the hubs, instead shipping the bearings in a box or wax paper wrapper with a light coat of oil. I recommend changing the grease only if the trailer will be used for long trips on the highway, or if it will be submerged as a boat trailer. In that case the lights also need to be upgraded.

A 5/8" / 16mm power tool blade/bit wrench is perfect for holding the casters while tightening the stud nuts.

I also painted the trailer before assembly since it's much easier. I only painted the parts that show with a deck in place. I used Ace Rust Stop International Gloss Red. It comes in a larger can for less money then other brands, and is a richer red than the factory paint (it will also not turn magenta over time). Because the rack components I added are painted black, I also painted the tow bard brackets, leaf spring saddles, and taillight brackets black for a nice contrast.

[annetttt]

Dude Mines straight up missing holes hahah

[odiseadamsjr]

I’m not willing to read and see if someone already mentioned this but you should NOT use power tools with nylon lock nuts. The speed can burn up the nylon and make them no longer locking.