Using DC and DCC On The Same Layout (333)

When modelers first start buying DCC equipped locos they often are reluctant to bite the bullet and convert their layout completely to DCC control. In this video I'll show you how you can safely use DC and DCC on your layout without any worries about shorting out the booster, powerpack, decoders, or other equipment. I'll also provide a warning about buying video cameras and also about avoiding lighting damage to you model railroad equipment.

[chuckrann]

Two loop method = Great idea. I have HO equipment from my childhood (late 50’s & 60’s) that could run continuously on DC, with newer equipment on a DCC. Thinking about blocks of track w/tunnels separating various landscaping, bridges, stations, signaling, etc. in my loft. Your duck under video was helpful too. Thanks!

[SD-ETAC]

I am (we are) blessed! My wife and I decided, when I retired, to move from a 4 bedroom house with a full basement to a 2 bedroom condo or apartment and not having room for my O gauge trains I sold all, absolutely all my trains, layout and accessories both DC & DCC.
But after moving in, my wife realized the need for a railroad hobby to keep me busy and she bought me a N gauge DCC equipped starter kit to go on a 4’x8’ table and all I have now is DCC and lots of potential (electrical pun intended.) Sorry you got your stuff zapped, but I am glad to hear you, your family and the majority of your equipment survived. All in all the storms, here in SW Va, can be deadly but pale in comparison to the rest of the planet.
I have an ancient Gateway laptop I could let you borrow, but other than use as a weight I’m not sure it would help as it only has a 256 mb hard drive 😁I use it as a large flat deadweight for gluing down my track and as a conversation starter for more mature friends I’ve made in this complex we live in now.
Best wishes for an isolated future.

[thomascanady]

Hi Larry, great as always. Glad you and family was not hurt by the lightning strike. I only use DC on my test track to test my locomotives before putting decoders in. My main layout is DCC only.

[ironwolfusa]

Hey Larry, I got hit too and since then, I also have a whole house surge protector but I also have APC UPS's on ALL my equipment. I've been using them for many years and haven't lost any of my equipment. I may have lost some UPS and/or a battery but no equipment. I really like your channel and watch it all the time. Keep up the great work!

[musoseven]

Useful advice and pointers, thank you👍😊 When running narrow gauge models in 7mm it isn't always possible to fit a decoder due to space in a loco/construction methods.

For the standard gauge I plan to run DC and dead rail RC - so no issues to consider.

👍👍😊💜💜✌️✌️

[bertcresta]

So sorry to hear about the trouble you’re having due to the lighting, and the cameras. Sometimes when it rains, it pours…literally. All the best!

[crsrdash-b]

I want to add one note. With a DPDT make sure it is rated higher than the highest amp on either system. That way you can operate and expand without peeking the switch. Usually a 10-15 amp center off switch can handle any size layout in N and HO scale.

[ColtonRMagby]

All power strips should have a surge suppressor built in from the manufacturer because of lightning. Lightning can strike anywhere at any time, and you never know how bad the damage could be. I'm glad you didn't lose power to your whole house and have other stuff damaged by the lightning because that could've been an expensive problem, especially if the water heater doesn't work properly. Stay safe, and I'll see what you put out next week.

[StationaryDingleberry]

Thanks for posting on a seemingly taboo topic... I started building a small shelf HO/HOn3 layout 10 years ago... I like sound and don't really care much about DCC control... I started with a (to me a very underrated product) MRC Tech 6... It's basically DCC but can only control the #3 address (walk-around 1-6)... my plan is based on a cab/block control layout (DPDT switches)... essentially the two loops with connector idea... crossing over would be relatively rare...

I added a potential dead-leg block in the cross-over for additional protection (switched normally to off)... one stretch will be an auto-reversing DC track (chugging with DC sound) and the rest is a switching/branch line... I figured there are no guarantees and operating procedures combined with the extended crossover is acceptable protection.

[shemp]

I have two small layouts one is my front room coffee table. Since it is 40 years old and I have some engines that are DC only and can not be converted to DCC. So it makes sense that the new layout would be both! On my new layout. The inside loop is isolated. But using this method and an extra DPDT switch, You can have a DC/DCC/Program track. It works extremely well, and having the ability to have a complete loop to program and flip a switch run the DCC engine is really easy! Not having to switch tracks to test a newly programmed engine makes the extra switch worth the extra work it takes worth the time. I'm am not going to try and explain how, but it can be done by using the same method as splitting the DCC and DC.

[SamBarr-cxer]

Very sorry to hear about the damage of equipment due to the storm, this has now led me to decide to fit arrestors on my 13A outlets that feed the railway. I use DPDT centre off switches, one side is wired DCC the other is wired DC on 2 of my sections (loops) runs, my points are operated by solenoid motors on these two loops. elsewhare they are Tortoise. This means that I can never have DCC and DC fed simultaneously, to the same track at the same time. DC only used now for running in new locos not yet fitted with DCC. Just got to the part of the video where you also use DPDT centre off. However mine work oposite to yours, when switched to one side, the other side is where it picks up the power from which is switched to the centre common connections.

[ganeydn]

I have a DCC modular layout but I have two point to point tracks that are completely electrically isolated from the DCC double track main line and industrial sidings. One of the DC tracks is a Bachmann trolley that shuttles back and forth in the city of Holyoke. The second is a Proto 1000 New York City subway that will eventually shuttle from beneath the DCC Grand Central Terminal tracks (under construction) to somewhere in the Bronx. Since those DC tracks are designed specifically for those cars, they will never be home to the DCC Locomotives.

[jeffreywalker]

Larry, At about 7:00+ in the video about DCC & DC a DPDT the power not coming in from the posts opposite of the toggle lever position?
ie: if switch lever is pointed left....the contacts at the bottom of the lever slide to the right?
I'm not sure.
Great Videos. Jeffrey

[markwakeley]

Very good video, Larry. My layout is going to be VERY small, 4' x 6' ( I live in an apartment) and have a very simple track plan that will lend itself to splitting between DC and DCC. I can test run the locomotives I've repaired to fine tune them before adding the sound decoder. Your wrong about it being cheaper to buy locomotives with sound decoders installed. $250, minimum, is too steep for me on a fixed income (I swear this hobby is trying to price me out of it). I buy older Athearns, Stewarts, Atlas or Katos (when I can find them) that usually are not running well or not at all and repair them and add a Digitrax or XL Systems sound decoder. It usually costs about $100 or less. I know, it's not state of the art, but it's functional and the best I can do under the circumstances. Your videos helps me tremendously.

[thomasgrassi]

Larry I use this method on my work bench so I can test DC and DCC engines and other devices. Sorry you had problems with the electrical storm hope things will work out

[rdTrickGang]

Really enjoy the videos Larry! I have a 4x8 with a 2x6 L shape extension for a staging yard. And I actually do run DCC and DC on the same layout same track no insulators. It's just one or the other not at the same time. I just have a main bus ran with some feeders scattered around. Only Manuel thrown switches no accessories.I mostly use DCC but If I want to run DC locos I just remove all the DCC locos from layout and swap the positive and negative leads over to my DC power pack and boom DC power. I'm sure this isn't the best way to do it, probably best for very small layouts but it works well. Everything runs really smooth regardless of the power style. Best wishes !

[johnmarshall]

Hi Larry ... sorry to hear about your lightening strike ... In UK its always raining but not as much lightening ... I was also interested in the DC/DCC on tracks but then I remembered I cant use DC as the frog juicers I have work from a DCC signal a design by a member of MERG ...

[peterjhillier]

Another great Video Larry, I was thinking just how much poorer we'd all be without your wonderful instructive Videos, so sorry to hear of all your Problems, keep safe. I wholly agree with your recommendation to switch totally to DCC which enables you to operate your Railway as prototypically as possible, also buy Locos already fitted with their own Decoders, so much cheaper than retro fitted your own, I tend to stick with Athearn. Why is it that Sound fitted Diesels sound so much more realistic than Steam Locos?

[Ramjet]

Another thing to note about surge protectors. You want to know the clamping voltage because some “surge” protectors have a clamping voltage that is too high to be protective enough for your devices.

[APBG]

Hi, great info, I have a question, do you still need to insulate the rail switches if you have a frog juicer installed and using Peco unifrog ? By insulating I mean place those plastic joiners.