2JZ-GE EGR Delete and Vacuum lines

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Show you guys how to do an EGR delete and vacuum lines on an SC300
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On the charcoal canister from the fuel tank:

There is a line that was under the charcoal canister that runs back across the car to the area around the starter. You can tie those two and then it will dump there.

Personally I am so cheap that I want to use the vapor from my gas having played around with some southern engineered "bubbler" systems on old 80s pre obd vehicles where air is pumped into a fuel tank to vaporize fuel and the vacuum caries it into the runners through the tract

Yeah its not a lot, but like I said I'm so ocd about efficiency that I can't just let that vapor go. On a boosted car you'll get more out of it than on a NA just because under boost its going to pressurize and shove that vapor in with the charge. Depending on the lift and duration of your cam EVERY little bit helps when it comes to the miliseconds of the valve event

The resistor for the EGR is 10, 000 (10k) 1/2 watt

Great video this will help a lot of people

jrich
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I learned so much from this man thank you for sharing your knowledge

skydyleyw
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felt the need to put this here. i was following another video from someone going na-t at the same time as egr delete... then found this one. Biggest thing that threw me off was hearing in this video was if you aren't going turbo, you keep that system... No. throw that shit away lol. my car was revving to the moon barely touching throttle, then would just rev hang. I went back and pulled that vsv canister and just routed an intake line to the actuator and my car runs mint now. back to normal/but egr deleted. GET RID OF THE GIANT VSV CANISTER underneath the intake plenum. run a line from farthest left vacuum on intake, to the actuator (far right actuator, near injectors) instead of from that vsv to actuator. you're welcome. :)

radendub
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Bro ive been looking for this for like 2 weeks straight

chrisperez
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Your a life saver. Been looking on forms but no clear explanations.

ethanyoch
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So if I were going to run a FFIM and turbo I can just get rid of all the vacuum canister, butterfly valve, and vsv stuff? Just making sure because I haven’t been able to find anything about it online. You’re pretty much the only person I’ve seen that has even mentioned the vacuum canister

avereyknobloch
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do you need the block off plates? or can you run it without them

jznigel
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Whats a way I can contact you if you don't mind? Have a couple questions regarding canister and heater core

ethanyoch
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I didn’t understand the last little bit at the end of the video. Your trac light is on because you manual swapped? I have a 96 auto and a 92 stock 5 speed and (don’t yell at me) I’m taking the w58 from the 92 and putting it into the 96 with all the manual parts just until I can get my hands on a r154. How can I keep the trac light off? And what is the best way to get rid of the vsv sensors littered around the 96 engine bay?

ralphtarzia
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Question - I have a stock IS300, I'm wanting to eliminate the black tube box under the intake manifold as you mentioned. Will you need to attach a breather filter somewhere to accommodate the removal of the black box under the intake?

danielgalan
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Hey bro i have a 2001 lexus is 300 2jzge vvti.

I recently had my timing belt changed out and idle is slightly shaky and my mechanic said its probably from vaccume lines. Do you have a video or explanation on how to connect the vaccume lines in the correct spots for a vvti 2jzge

cg
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what is the blue sensor for do we need it

chasemcclary
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If I wanted to do it with no cel, I have a 95 do you know resistor I would need? And where would it go?

andrewavanessian
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soo.... since im NA, i just left the vsv connected (the one coupled with the black canister under the intake runners)-- i removed all other vsv's. is that correct?

jaliennation
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so is the turbulant air bad for the engine if i was to not tap that hole or does it really not matter?

brandonallgrim