The Secret To Perfect Moulding Returns(Wish I Knew This When I Started)

If you try out this technique it will immediately become your go to method!

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Thanks for watching!

[hindesite]

Been doing similar for years; I usually make the return longer, glue in place using tape to fold into place, then trim and finish the stub to be flush with the back of the moulding. Easier than fiddling around with tiny (and fragile) pieces.

[zqpjjoj]

I find that CA glue is great at transferring my finger prints to my work piece...:)

[BoneStack]

Tip for using the super glue. You can use it without the activator initially for more working time. I oftentimes will put glue on, put the pieces together and hold for about 10 seconds, then spray the back side with the activator. With MDF especially, the activator will soak the material and activate the glue. Even without the activator, the cyanoacrylate glue will bond with a bit more time and be just as strong.

[Stevelemontrudy]

You've got great content, and a great on-camera demeanor. Thanks for your contribution to the repair/remodel youtube realm.

[ReflektD]

There is actually another option thats a variant of your preferred self return. Instead of a 90 deg/square return, you can do a 45 degree version where the baseboard appears flows into the wall. It is particularly useful when you want to terminate at a thinner material such as tile. I can't take credit for this one - learned it from the legend Gary Katz

[thgrrandini]

Recently bought a new house and have been doing some remodeling. I am an amateur but about 20 years ago some of my early jobs were construction so I have some skill. Anyway just wanted to say that I have found your videos very helpful for tips and bringing back some of that forgotten knowledge. Thanks.

[terrysullivan]

Great tip. But "no fancy tools required" . I'd say a sliding compound miter saw is a fairly fancy bit of kit. Best purchase I've made in awhile and it's paid for it'self many times over.

[isaiahii]

One tip I would add to this is putting a wood backer on your miter fence that will keep the piece from being kicked by the blade. This also has the added benefit of stopping tear out on the cut exit.

I use two pieces of .25in x 1.5in x 12in on each side of my fence with a little double sided tape to hold it on. This makes those small cuts so much easier to do with far fewer messed up pieces. So many times I've had tiny pieces get grabbed by the miter saw blade and thrown at 100mph, but having that gap closed with the temporary wooden fence that closes the large gap of the permanent fence solves that issue.

[BAbullitt]

This man is the woodworking version of Bob Ross his voice is both educational and soothing

[vieuxacadian]

I've used a hot glue gun since the 1970s for all trim returns . Thanks for Your insights . Good info for Us all .

[skinnyb]

Excellent video. Few things that help me. Always keep a small cup of warm water and keep dipping your finger in the water. Also when you have caulk in your finger, just wipe it on the back of your opposite hand. It's my painter's pallette. I reuse in spots needed. Less waste also. Keep up the good work

[harryl]

Used CA doing my baseboards and other trim. Works like a champ! Used it to apply the skins to my new kitchen cabinets as well. Thanks for reminding me to buy a new blade for the miter saw. 👍🏼

[timmietimmins]

I would note, that I find it vastly easier not to cut all the way through on my return blocks. Those tiny little 45 degree triangles tend to get thrown all over when you cut them completely through, particularly if you are cutting them on the miter and not the bevel, as shown here, and often ruined when the blade catches them. I find it much easier just to leave the back bottom corner in place when cutting, and then you can break them off easily, and trim off anything you may need to with your utility knife.

Also, when doing this at scale, I recommend building your returns and joins on the backside of another piece of baseboard from somewhere else in the install. This way, the extra glue doesn't get anywhere you care about, and you can use activator to neutralize any drip through, and not worry about messing up any part of the house you are working in. It's also flat, and long enough that you can force the baseboard flat when doing long joints to make sure the joint closes properly.

[AngieWilliamsDesigns]

Great tip. I have so many really bad moulding returns in our home. Sometimes I just wonder what they were thinking.

[johnmutton]

To line them up for glueing, use a straight edge and butt the workpiece against it so when you add the other one just slide it down the straight edge then push into place. Perfect fit!

[glennpenzone]

This guy is absolutely on of the best in his craft. Explained perfectly well. I am confident I can try and attempt this at home now.

[jerryerzhu]

Great teacher, the way you describes the working process is really relaxing and crystal clear good stuff，，👍👍👍

[JV-pukx]

Tip: Don't worry about cutting the return piece to perfect length! Let it be a little bit long. Glue it to the main piece, trim to fit, possibly with a sander, then attach it to the wall.

[MrSteelehead]

I built staircases, and usually got the millwork installation too. Before that, like most, I packed lumber and framed.
Framers want to kill you in the winter, when they see through the windows in your stocking feet, ticky tackin up all of that beautiful light wood/mdf. I would tell them that “the instructions are in boxes that my parts are shipped to me in”. That’s how I learned, I taught several, friends for life.
“Thank for teaching”. (The old ones, taught me the most.)

[juliemanning]

So amazingly helpful! thank you. I am planning to make a semi complicated box to make our plant drape in a really pretty way and this will make it look beautiful!