JUNKYARD LS POWER-383 vs 6.0L (BIG BORE vs BIG STROKE)

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6.0L OR 5.3L 383 STROKER? WHICH ONE WINS? IS BIGGER BETTER? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO WHERE I COMPARED A PAIR OR 383 STROKERS (MILD & WILD) TO A PAIR OF 6.0L COMBOS (MILD & WILD). DOES THE BIGGER BORE OFFERED BY THE 6.0L OFFER MORE POWER THAN THE BIGGER STROKE ON THE 383? WHEN IT COMES TO POWER, IS IT AS SIMPLE AS BIGGER IS BETTER? WHAT ABOUT COST?
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Honestly, Thank you Richard for sharing all this invaluable information with us. Knowledge is wealth.

TheHorselemonade
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There are only a handful of 5.3/4.8 blocks that can be bored to 4.0", but they're easy to spot. If you look on the back where "4.8/5.3" is normally cast, some of the early gen3 blocks have "4.8/5.3/6.0" cast into them. You'll probably only find it in '99-'00 model trucks as GM started producing separate 6.0 blocks since it was cheaper than machining a 5.3 block out to 4.0"

Ribbityibzki
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Cubic inches always makes a difference. The 6.0 with tiny chamber heads was pushing a full point higher compression than the LS2 with flat tops, and that pushed the power up a lot. 560x1.04, a 4% increase due to compression, takes you to over 580 right there. The AFRs probably flowed better too, making the rest of the difference. The torque curve of the 383 is pretty impressive. The flat top pistons should give that combo close to 11:1, depending on head gasket, chamber size, etc. Previous tests that compared the Comp 459 to the 469 show the extra exhaust duration improving power at the top. Conversely, using the 459 in the 383 may have improved the mid-range torque, because it sure had some. You mentioned “good” heads on the 383 but never identified them, or at least I missed it if you did. If you can afford the several grand for the rotating assembly, that 383 looks really good. Or you can just put the sub-$200 eBay turbo on the $500 junkyard LS (any size) and there you are!

bdugle
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You're doing the Lord's work with these videos 👍🏻 Thank ya sir

matt_ChevyCo
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That 383 is killer!!! Thats a boatload of power in a middle-of-the-road combination. Cool vid

MrScottt
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I JUST pulled my 4.8 (2012) for a mild 5.3. I'll be keeping the 127K 4.8 and make a 383!!! THis video was just what i needed!

baddbradd
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I’ve always wanted to put a 3.900” stroke in a 6.0L and have a nice balance of bore to stroke ratio with a mild cam and see what kind of numbers itd throw down!

lukemorgan
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That's the comparison I been looking for thanks. Unless u get a sweet deal the price of a 6.0 is pretty close to just getting a crank and pistons for a 5.3 and turning it into a 383 with gen 4 rods

djmurria
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That's cool you can see the difference between each cam. The 6.0 liter cam pulls harder as you build revs all the way to the top of the throttle, which is awesome.

googsutube
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I've had both, my 382" (about 15 years ago) was - LS6 block, Eagle rotating assembly, AFR 205s @ 58cc and "Mamo-fied", Crane 228/236 .600"ish lift 114 LSA, FAST 90mm ported by Tony Mamo, Meziere EWP, Kooks 1.75-1-1875 step headers, 3" duals with an X, 42lb injectors, 90mm TB, 85mm MAF, stock 411 PCM tuned, stock rockers - it made right at 480 RWHP and 443 RWTQ through a 60E and a 10 bolt in an F body. Currently have an LQ4 in my daily half ton Silverado, it is a balancing act between - more power, and keeping the ability to tow and daily drive it still. (I think it needs boost) I am building a pro tour-ish 68 Chevelle as well - starting with an LQ4 short block... I keep watching your videos and crunching numbers to figure out the rest of that combo - heads/cam/intake manifold. Keep up the great work Mr. Holdener

bluecollarhotrods
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Hey buddy I love your content. This your buddy from Bahamas again.i was one of the first owners of a ls engine!
I had a Chevy Silverado when they first came out & love that motor!
Keep up the great content ❤🇧🇸

idisaunders
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You rock for giving out all this free info !!

anthonypescatore
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So the long stroke motor makes peak TQ before the crossover point and the big bore motor makes peak TQ after the crossover. This is why I think that starting out with a near-giveaway (or really cheap) 4.8 and stroking it to 4" (since you would buy rods and pistons anyway) is much cheaper than buying a 6.0L (and rods/pistons) to start a project with. All that TQ in the RPM range of daily driving and not having to rev it to the moon to get anything out of it makes sense for a Street Car. Like I said in a previous comment, 4.8L + $700 Summit Racing 4" Stroker Crank is cheaper (where I am at) than a 6.0L by itself....especially if you already have a 4.8 or 5.3. All the hype around 6.0L junkyard specials has caused them to dry up as people are hording them now and when they are available, the prices are insane.

joeyjojojr.shabadoo
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Damn glad these are both LS based.

Me sitting here, building up 383 parts for my 1990 350 TBI V8 Surburban. Square body build. 3 years ago, it was quoted as a "pain" to modify my frame a tad, to fit the LS in its bay. Think a pulley arrangement would have also been the ticket. Soooo' .. parts buying 383 I went. Now here I am .. a set of Trick Flow TBI heads away from sending it all to the machine shop & ordering my 700R4 build .. .. .. literally SURROUNDED by LS powered Square bodies.

Wondered so many times, the "pain" supposedly needed for a junkyard LS fitment versus my thousands of dollars in parts thus far.

jamiecampbell
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383 compares closer to an LS3 than a 6.0, they’re just 1/10 of a liter apart.

petejoseph
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I’ve bored a 99 model 5.3 to a 5.7. And used ls1 flat tops. Runs great.

carsonellis
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A video on underdrive pulleys would be interesting 🤔

guillermocortez
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I built a 5.3-6.0 last year. She still runs awesome today and it has .144 wall thickness at the thinnest area. The engine is a little monster and I’m more or less “partial” to it because I didn’t think it would last or perform and it has done amazing for 17k miles now. It has a sloppy 2 cam and 799 heads & a $64 set of Diamond Pro Ebay pistons (yes $64 for all 8) I did not want to invest any more money than I had to on a motor I wasn’t sure would even work. It makes 363whp on my dynojet 248X with winpep8 fully updated. Tuned on e85 with HP tuners.

Now the scary part, I tried it again and almost went through a cylinder wall. Not all blocks are created equal. Sonic check it before and after make sure you start with a good block. I used a lm7 & Lr4. I’m not sure if it makes a difference but the first build (the good one) started life as a 4.8L and the one that was to thin started as a 5.3L If I build another one I will use .030 over LS1 pistons from Diamond Pro to be sure it’s good. I have 8 sets of those Diamond Pro pistons new in box, I will donate a set to you if you would like a set. They are no longer available for that price on eBay. Message me shipping info if you want them. Displacement comes out to 5.8L with the pistons I have. I have the same $64 pistons in a std. bore 5.3l making 544whp with a GT45 on 14lbs.

repurposedperformance
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Man I love how you just welcome the haters to battle in the comments so joyfully. You the man Richard!!!

jonathonbelton
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The 383 is the type of build that wins races, and is more efficient for fuel economy and/or fuel efficiency.

Great to see your experiences, Richard!

Faolan